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Keyo

Battery drain

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Posted (edited)

So have a parasitic battery drain. 

Have a new alternator and battery fitted within 3 months . Its that bad the drain that I took the car for a 100 mile run and car was upto 14 running and 12.5 with ignition off . This morning went to start car and car down to 8 on gauge pods . Had this problem a few months back and had a new alternator and battery but now back to square one. Have checked glove box and luggage light and they are all turning off. Any usual suspect - Ai606 is only a couple of years old as well. When my car first didn't start I noticed the glove box light had been left on but now turned off and battery recharges still getting the same issues.  Fitted the recaro seats was the last job before the drain but as mentioned there was a drain a few months back before the new parts were fitted. Also fitted a new Hella fuel and ecu relay in the last couple of weeks before drain 109 and 67. 

Thanks 

 

 

Edited by Keyo

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How good are your auto electrical skills?? You will like this one. You need to remove each fuse and put a multimeter onto each side the pins. With the setting on mAh milliamps (thousandths of an amp) and record the measurement for each fuse.

This is of course with nothing turned on/ being used 

We are looking for a higher reading being the culprit

For now, also check the boot light, as that is another one that you would not know if it was on

I will try and post up a pic latet

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Posted (edited)

Im not that is the problem mate dont even have a volt meter electrics are my weakest point. I really noticed it starting to happen when I got the headlights re metallised and they were stripped back - not sure that has anything to do with it. I keep reading that the widow module and door contacts are pretty common battery  suckers . Checked the bootlight mate and its turning off when tailgate shut. . 

Edited by Keyo

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Yep, checking each fused circuit individually is the only way - you can get multimeter leads that have a blade fuse adapter built into them, plugs straight into the fusebox and means you don't need to hold the probes in place.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Fen - Ok have a confession to make after a second inspection I was working in the cabin last night sticking a gearbox shift pattern decal and guess what I left the cabin light on I suppose it another excuse to take her four an hour drive. 

 

Nonetheless they are greedy sucking vampires look at the greedy f....r devouring the poor golf caught on camera 😀

 

 

battery.jpg

Edited by Keyo

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Ha ha - we've all done that - have you got a battery charger, or a small trickle charger/conditioner if it's left standing for a while? 2-3 weeks sees mine run flat regardless.

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54 minutes ago, fendervg said:

Ha ha - we've all done that - have you got a battery charger, or a small trickle charger/conditioner if it's left standing for a while? 2-3 weeks sees mine run flat regardless.

Mate my dream set up would be a large garage with all cars on trickle chargers and Protected from the elements 
 

seen a property about ten miles away in a village and it comes with a lovely old workshop barn 23 meters by 7 . It’s big decisions for me this year as my trusted builders are retiring in 2 years - need to decide what area  I would like smaller house but a huge garage 😂

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I put a multimeter on my battery,and then started taking out fuses till the drop disappeared, mine was on the central locking circuit,
And this was the culprit, (passenger door)
aee75d25ff611d0f236e268148132e40.jpg

I’m sure Easypops had the same problem, as I remember reading a thread he did about it, so it gave me a good idea where to look

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, dragon green said:

I put a multimeter on my battery,and then started taking out fuses till the drop disappeared, mine was on the central locking circuit,
And this was the culprit, (passenger door)
aee75d25ff611d0f236e268148132e40.jpg

I’m sure Easypops had the same problem, as I remember reading a thread he did about it, so it gave me a good idea where to look

Mate I read the window modules and central locking are very common fault that causes these leakes it so goes I have two of them suckers NOS but yours looks a bit different . Dragon Green were your locks pull slow when it was failing ? 

actuator.jpg

Edited by Keyo

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Ignore my pic,I couldn’t find my pic of it so I googled it !
Didn’t notice the pull was slow, I never changed mine, all I did was disconnected it. Everything works as it did,except if I use the key in the passenger door,it only unlocks that door!
The central locking unlocks it,as does the drivers door key.
I have got a spare, but as yet,not got around to fitting it

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, dragon green said:

Ignore my pic,I couldn’t find my pic of it so I googled it !
Didn’t notice the pull was slow, I never changed mine, all I did was disconnected it. Everything works as it did,except if I use the key in the passenger door,it only unlocks that door!
The central locking unlocks it,as does the drivers door key.
I have got a spare, but as yet,not got around to fitting it

Yours is the original part mate ending with a H - the superseded ones above I have pictured are spot on apart from the bit that air line attaches to, you can see on the picture that they are flipping bigger the sods - you have to take off the orange L shape connector off  the airline hose and use some rubber hose instead- thankfully I had some Mk2 power locking spares and the hose was perfect .   Picture below before I slipped it on all the way - had to put the rubber hose in some hot boiling water but it slide on eventually and very tight fit. So that is one job off the list as I replaced both this evening. By the looks of you can unlip the whole of the top section and swap them over but I didn't want to risk damaging the new actuator. 

conne.jpg

Edited by Keyo

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Posted (edited)

These are the air connector hose to actuator grey (grey bit on the end of the yellow hose)  that supersedes the original actuator- the connectors are obsolete and a different part number then the actuator the tight b.... s.

However at least you can get a new actuator and not  to expensive - . Heritage can bring them over from Germany for a few quid. Part number 3A0862153B  .3A0 862 153 B £18.00 per one. Hope this helps if anyone else has a bad actuator - my contacts were very crusty inside the plug.   3A0 862 153 B

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/ventil-41aab1.html

 

act.jpg

Edited by Keyo

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Another thing I have noticed is once I lock the doors the courtesy light stays on for a few seconds and when it auto turns off a few seconds later I can hear the pump make a noise like its locking the doors again 1 or two seconds after the light goes out  is this normal anyone ? Maybe something to do with the Immobiliser 

Thanks 

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31 minutes ago, Keyo said:

Another thing I have noticed is once I lock the doors the courtesy light stays on for a few seconds and when it auto turns off a few seconds later I can hear the pump make a noise like its locking the doors again 1 or two seconds after the light goes out  is this normal anyone ? Maybe something to do with the Immobiliser 

Thanks 

my car does this as well 

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14 hours ago, ger040 said:

my car does this as well 

Is this related to an aftermarket immobiliser you reckon mate  ? 

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Fuel cap locking?  I know it'll keep going if it senses low vacuum pressure at the locks, so could be linked to that?

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The interior light is supposed to stay on for a few seconds,
The door locking thing,yes,mines always done that

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3 hours ago, Keyo said:

Is this related to an aftermarket immobiliser you reckon mate  ? 

i dont know to be honest - my car did have an after market alarm / immobiliser fitted but had partially disconnected and i removed the remaining during a tidy up 

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At least yours does the same so hopefully normal ha. 

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2 hours ago, seanl82 said:

Fuel cap locking?  I know it'll keep going if it senses low vacuum pressure at the locks, so could be linked to that?

Yes mate locking good Im going to see if she starts up in a minute without the jumpers fingers crossed . 

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Great news only took the car for 5 minute drive last night after jump starting with leads-  she started up first time this evening that would of not happened since I have owned the car think the door actuators were blood sucking ! 

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Great news only took the car for 5 minute drive last night after jump starting with leads-  she started up first time this evening that would of not happened since I have owned the car think the door actuators were blood sucking ! 

Fingers crossed


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, dragon green said:


Fingers crossed emoji1696.png


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very happy bunny here- I think for a vag classic part that has a plug in new £18.00 is very reasonable as well- think that is why I purchased them in the first place as that is rare for a corrado - must be because it shares the part with a Passat as does not start with 535  !  Be warned early corrado have a different part number if you are reading this thread. 

Edited by Keyo

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Posted (edited)

Car started up again today very happy. Another question if I may-  I had three settings on my headlights on the corrado very dim- normal - high beam and Vince fitted that well made uprated loom with two relays (can't think of the brand) now only has two settings normal (both first and second click of the button and high beam, the dim one (is this known as dim dip ? ) has now gone - is this ok or a mot failure- Would the headlight loom fry the yellow dim dip resistor if it was connected ?  I saw a Mk2 light switch set fire on FB and they say its when the yellow dim dip cable hits a chassis leg and to disconnect it? On my golf the dim still works if that is the first setting when you press the switch in other words three different light outputs . 

Thanks 

Mk2 switch that burnt out. Would you disconnect the battery to put out the fire ?  

 

light.jpg

Edited by Keyo

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