Cluster gauge displays are gone

[KarlosG60 2]

I was thinking about my issue this weekend.

What relation can exists between the electrical noise from fuel pump relay, with the dead of my cluster gauge? A noise only heard in the first tries after the fuel pump has been replaced and also, last day when I connected all the wires from it when I was discarding the origin of the cluster dead.

How this fuel pump works in the very first turn on try? Maybe I make a mistake with the fuel pump? I bought it new from VWClassicParts.

Edited August 17, 2020 by KarlosG60

[Bennitoapplebum 2]

3 hours ago, KarlosG60 said:

I was thinking about my issue this weekend.

What relation can exists between the electrical noise from fuel pump relay, with the dead of my cluster gauge? A noise only heard in the first tries after the fuel pump has been replaced and also, last day when I connected all the wires from it when I was discarding the origin of the cluster dead.

How this fuel pump works in the very first turn on try? Maybe I make a mistake with the fuel pump? I bought it new from VWClassicParts.

The only thing I can think of that relates them are the shared voltage.  If the grounds are not good, you’ll get low voltages. Many components need full voltage to work properly.

Have you fixed the main grounds?

[Dox 23]

Tank / pump earth would be a place to start?
 

clocks will have a voltage stabiliser chip, mk2s drop to 9v for temp and fuel level. Mk2 clocks also earth on the corner of the cylinder head

[KarlosG60 2]

3 hours ago, Bennitoapplebum said:

The only thing I can think of that relates them are the shared voltage.  If the grounds are not good, you’ll get low voltages. Many components need full voltage to work properly.

Have you fixed the main grounds?

It's strange to me, because the cluster always works fine. It's true that the car is out of the road since 2010, but every time I run it, clocks works fine. It only fails after the fuel pump was replaced. I don't know.

Have you fixed the main grounds?

Not yet. Throughout this week I will buy some stuff and fix some of them.

 

42 minutes ago, Dox said:

Tank / pump earth would be a place to start?
 

clocks will have a voltage stabiliser chip, mk2s drop to 9v for temp and fuel level. Mk2 clocks also earth on the corner of the cylinder head

Fuel and water temp are working fine. I read the Bentley's and the voltage stabilizer it's for this gauge only, if I didn't mistaken the translation the Bentley to my language. I search for some videos at YT, but I don't trust myself to check the voltage of my cluster gauge.

 

Thanks guys.

Edited August 17, 2020 by KarlosG60

[KarlosG60 2]

On 8/11/2020 at 9:04 AM, Bennitoapplebum said:

All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado.  Just kidding.

Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems.  Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure.

The main grounds to check or replace are:

1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic)

2: transmission bolt to frame

3: intake manifold to firewall

4: firewall to hood hinge

5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box

 

Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down.  Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation.

All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.

Ok, let's make an update.

I bought this silicone grease:

It's not dielectric, but I search a lot of info about differences between silicone grease and dielectric grease and are a few minor differences. My choice was silicone grease because the price:

https://www.amazon.es/Silverhook-SGPGT90-Grasa-Silicona-Tubo/dp/B00W6Q3B1G/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=silicone+grease&qid=1599054107&sr=8-1

 

1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic)

Greased.

2: transmission bolt to frame

 

3: intake manifold to firewall

This was fixed long time ago (this ground was missing when I bought the car). I refixed anyway:

 

 

4: firewall to hood hinge

 

 

5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box

I think this ground is fine and I not repair and grease it because the working lamp and my phone are gone. So this ground is not fixed, but I repeat I see it very well. Anyway, tomorrow I will fix like the others (dismount, sanding thread, replace nut)

 

 

 

[KarlosG60 2]

I have another question, because long time ago found this at fusebox:

 

But this will be on another thread.

I only need to know if this wire and switch it's original or not to pull it out and clean the zone.

 

[fendervg 33]

Looks like a door contact switch for the interior light - doesn't seem OEM, the switch part looks different and has more metal, and the electrical tape around the wires is suspicious - but an alarm fitter might have replaced it or fitted a different one that has more contact pins than the factory one (they usually have two).

[KarlosG60 2]

2 hours ago, fendervg said:

Looks like a door contact switch for the interior light - doesn't seem OEM, the switch part looks different and has more metal, and the electrical tape around the wires is suspicious - but an alarm fitter might have replaced it or fitted a different one that has more contact pins than the factory one (they usually have two).

The problem with that type of things it is necessary to check carefully before cut it or pull it out. This car had an audio system "enhancement" (very poor and homemade) which I had to remove, maybe this switch it's part of it. Well, this is not a priority right now, but the cluster gauge displays.

Edited September 2, 2020 by KarlosG60

[Cressa 44]

1 hour ago, KarlosG60 said:

The problem with that type of things it is necessary to check carefully before cut it or pull it out. This car had an audio system "enhancement" (very poor and homemade) which I had to remove, maybe this switch it's part of it. Well, this is not a priority right now, but the cluster gauge displays.

I would definitely trace the wiring back and remove it, as I dont believe it is original. Good luck with sorting this though 

[Bennitoapplebum 2]

Actually your #5 pic (ground bus) is not the correct one.  It’s above the fuse box.  I can see it in your other picture, after the aftermarket switch picture.  It’s bolted right above, has around 10 “fast-on” type connections, with about 4 brown wires occupied.  I also see a thin black wire connected to it (looks shaky) kinda burnt.  Might wanna check out what that is.

[KarlosG60 2]

15 hours ago, Bennitoapplebum said:

Actually your #5 pic (ground bus) is not the correct one.  It’s above the fuse box.  I can see it in your other picture, after the aftermarket switch picture.  It’s bolted right above, has around 10 “fast-on” type connections, with about 4 brown wires occupied.  I also see a thin black wire connected to it (looks shaky) kinda burnt.  Might wanna check out what that is.

Oops, ok, thanks

[KarlosG60 2]

Hi guys,

A little updateto this thread after my holidays.

Just back from workshop specialized in cluster gauges in Barcelona. The man said that is very strange how my cluster was broken, but in any case he will look and check it and during next week he will call me to say me something about.

[KarlosG60 2]

NEWS:

I called to workshop. They told me that the CPU of the motherboard is dead and they try to find new MOBO to fit in. But they can't find anything (and they have more work to do, of course). So I told them that I can search too for someone.

 

[KarlosG60 2]

I found this one. Not sure if is the correct one (too expensive):

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/leiterplatte-mit-gehaeuse-fa56d9.html

 

But it is 100% necessary to change this? There are some fix or something? (Instead buying a whole used cluster gauge, I mean)

Edited October 13, 2020 by KarlosG60

[KarlosG60 2]

They still searching for a used PCB for my cluster gauge.
I don't know where they are searching, but this is a thing that I can do it better, I think. So this week is the last one. If they don't find anything I will pick my gauge from them and find someone else or maybe search/bought new PCB by myself.

Edited October 20, 2020 by KarlosG60

[Keyo 47]

2 hours ago, KarlosG60 said:

They still searching for a used PCB for my cluster gauge.
I don't know where they are searching, but this is a thing that I can do it better, I think. So this week is the last one. If they don't find anything I will pick my gauge from them and find someone else or maybe search/bought new PCB by myself.

Have you actually checked VW classics to see if the rear of the clocks the brains are still available- I purchased a complete unit for my 95 VR6 a couple of years ago - do you know how to use etka ? Get your part number from the diagram and then check on this website. 

Here look on here - this would of been your cheapest route and you get all new. Bolt on bolt off yes it would change the mileage but thats better then clocks failing in the near future again  Get one whilst you can but please check if it is available for your model as variations. Your cluster specialist will be able to change the mileage to match your existing to be fair or anyone with a bit of knowledge. 

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=corrado+circuit&order=relevance&dir=desc

 

Edited October 20, 2020 by Keyo

[tonedef 9]

Spam, reported

[KarlosG60 2]

On 10/20/2020 at 1:30 PM, Keyo said:

Have you actually checked VW classics to see if the rear of the clocks the brains are still available- I purchased a complete unit for my 95 VR6 a couple of years ago - do you know how to use etka ? Get your part number from the diagram and then check on this website. 

Here look on here - this would of been your cheapest route and you get all new. Bolt on bolt off yes it would change the mileage but thats better then clocks failing in the near future again  Get one whilst you can but please check if it is available for your model as variations. Your cluster specialist will be able to change the mileage to match your existing to be fair or anyone with a bit of knowledge. 

https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=corrado+circuit&order=relevance&dir=desc

 

Hi Keyo,

Thanks for your message. Excuse me for delaying on my response.

So yes, I know how to use ETKA. It saves a lot of time searching pieces. I also search the piece in VW Classic Parts and yes, they have it, is the reference 535 919 042, which costs  535.17€ + shipping. So... Yeah, GL... 😅

Hopefully I found a complete cluster gauge in Spain in very good conditions. Today I test it and it works fine. The RPM works, the MFA works... The only thing is the mileage (mine +200000 kms VS this w/ 143000kms) but well, maybe I will do what you say about sending it to cluster specialist to set it up my mileage. 

[Keyo 47]

Unlucky mate that tends to mean they are down to the last few so price high- luckily for the VR thay under half that price even though when at the dealers they were £600- . Glad to hear you finally sorted it. 

Edited November 9, 2020 by Keyo

[KarlosG60 2]

Keyo 👍

 

 

And to finally close this thread, the solution was found another complete cluster and mount it. 

The specialist (Auto Control Barcelona) said to me it was the PCB, but they don't really care about finding one, new or used, because since I get it back from them (after 3 weeks of no news) and find and bought another complete gauge, past two f****** days. So, yes, they waste my time and money to tell me what I already know...

Anyway, I had fixed this issue. I hope this cluster don't fail and keep me going to return to life my loved G60. 

 

Regards to all of you guys helped me about it. 

Edited November 9, 2020 by KarlosG60

[KarlosG60 2]

Is it possible to move this topic to other subforum to avoid missing it? Or maybe I can open a new one to make a quick resume of what happen in my cluster gauge and how I solved?

Edited November 11, 2020 by KarlosG60

[RBLVZR 0]

Hi mate, i have some issues with the cluster too, it shows the fuel quantity and the water temp, but nothing else works, nor the radio. I heared, that the cluster voltage regulator might be a problem too, i bought one recently, and am about to change. Verify that tiny little piece out too, it is not expensive, like 20-25 euros with shipping. Cheers

[Dox 23]

20 minutes ago, RBLVZR said:

Hi mate, i have some issues with the cluster too, it shows the fuel quantity and the water temp, but nothing else works, nor the radio. I heared, that the cluster voltage regulator might be a problem too, i bought one recently, and am about to change. Verify that tiny little piece out too, it is not expensive, like 20-25 euros with shipping. Cheers

The regulator is for the temp and fuel gauge, if they're working the reg should be all good.

 

The purpose of the reg is to supply the fuel and temp gauges with a consistent voltage, engine running or engine off. Without the reg the alternator voltage being higher than battery voltage the gauges would read higher engine running than with the engine stopped.

[_Matt_ 32]

I have bought the voltage reg the repair the fuel and temp gauges on my 16v clocks. The rest of the clocks (speedo. rev etc) all work fine. As Dox says that reg is just for the fuel and temp parts. I believe i blew the reg when testing the fuel pumps with external power.

[1xshaunx1 27]

I hate electric problems, it’s enough with other stuff that crops up. 
Good luck matey