Rear Axle Bushes

From THE Corrado Forum Knowledge Base

2CC's GUIDE TO CHANGING REAR BEAM BUSHES

SPECIAL TOOL "VAG 3111" IS ESSENTIAL!

Part Numbers Recommended For Replacement

Qty	VAG Part No.	Part
2x	191 501 541	Rear Bush for KR, PG, 9A, 2E, ADY engine codes (G60,16v)
2x	1H0 501 541	Rear Bush for ABV engine code(VR6)
2x	N 903 544 01	Bolt for rear beam to car
2x	N 903 237 04	Nut for above
2x	N 905 173 02	Bolt for lower part or rear damper to rear beam
2x	1H0 609 734 D	Clip for Handbrake cable (Up to chassis number 50-S-000 361)
2x	1H0 609 734 C	Clip for Handbrake cable (From chassis number 50-S-000 362)

Tools

• Axle stands
• Jack
• Sockets – 17,18, 19 mm
• Ratchet handle
• T-Bar/Breaker bar
• Torque Wrench(s) – ranging from 15 to 70 Nm (11 to 52 lb ft)
• Ring and/or Open end spanners – 10, 11, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19 mm
• Pliers
• Large flat screwdriver
• Hacksaw
• Hammer
• Penetrating oil
• Copper Ease
• Special Tool VAG 3111

Thoughts

Always replace both bushes.

Access to a vehicle lift, with integral rolling jack, will make this job much easier.

The job was done on a VR6, but apart from minor differences in brake line routing, ABS etc the procedure is the same for all models.

Also a good opportunity for fitting braided brake hoses if you’ve not done that yet.

Thanks

Thanks are due to the following, without whose help this "How-To" would not have been written:

Yandards, for engineering assistance and special tool support, emergency transport and sense of humour.

John of JMR (16VG60), for short notice emergency special tool support.

NickVR6, for the donor car, his sang froid while we tore it to bits and the superb catering.

The Job

Engage low gear or chock front wheels and, with handbrake off, support rear of car on axle stands just forward of the rear beam.

Remove rear wheels and disconnect rear suspension damper lower mounting bolt (17mm). You may

wish to remove the suspension strut complete so it doesn’t get in your way, noting how the mountings, top nuts (sizes vary depending what dampers you have fitted, 17, 18 or 19mm) support cups and washers are fitted. This is made easier if the damper is held up

in its turret using something like a bottle jack, or before the car is lifted. Note:

Once the damper is disconnected the rear beam is free to pivot and the trailing arms will swing down. It is a good idea to support the hubs with suitable blocks to keep the pivots at the “correct” angle during removal/replacement of the beam.Disconnect

the handbrake cable from the caliper. , Release the cable clips from the trailing arms. These are swines to remove and you may need to replace them. Disconnect

the metal brake line unions (11mm) from the flexi hoses (sizes vary, 14 or 16mm) and compensator valve as shown. These are frequently difficult to undo without damage as they are relatively soft metal and tend to corrode, so be careful with them unless you are intending to replace them. Use plenty of penetrating fluid and wire brushing. I also find a right angle scriber point very useful for loosening the muck from between the pipe and the union nut.I’ve capped them off with straight connectors (14mm) and bleed nipples (11mm) to stop it bleeding to death. You can get these for

a couple of bob from any decent motor factors. Detach the

flexi hose from its bracket by first removing the spring clip (lever out with

screwdriver/pliers) and pulling it down and free. Similarly, disconnect the flexi on the other side. Inside the

car, lift both the rear seat squabs, disconnect the ABS signal cables and feed

them down beneath the car. Just take

the weight of the rear beam on a jack and remove the pivot bolts (18mm). Do NOT disturb the mounting brackets through

which they fit or you will disturb the factory set alignment. Note:

The flexi hose brackets on the beam, and rear brake compensator, both obstruct removal of these bolts so you may have to bend the brackets to provide clearance or use a large open ended spanner. The compensator has to be removed but you will probably find that you cannot undo its fixing screws: a. because the (OE) exhaust denies proper access, and, b. the screw heads are rounded off. Options. 1. Remove all the brake lines from the compensator and saw it off. Not easy, and you will then need a new one and they are not cheap - £70 ish. (The rear brake compensator is mounted differently on the 16V, may also be for the G60 but am not sure, and is easily disconnected from the beam as it is bolted (13mm) to a lever arm)2. Saw the head off the pivot bolt and drive it outwards. This is also not easy, but is a much cheaper option. You may also find that the bolt catches on the bodywork, in which case clearance can be obtained by loosening (but not removing) the 3 x 17mm bolts holding the mounting bracket to the car floor. This should be reset later with proper optical realignment equipment. Slide the

beam out from under the car. I supported it on large axle stands for easy access to work on it. Remove the handbrake cable support clips from the ends of the pivots – they just pull out. The old

bushes are removed by pressing them inwards, and the new ones are fitted by pressing them outwards.Using special tool VW 3111, assemble the appropriate backing block and screw bolt (it’s a generic tool and has two sizes

in the set) and engage on the pivot assembly. Note:

The inner lips of the backing block should fit between the trailing arm body

and the bush carrier. See here Insert the removal die and centre pin then wind on pressure to expel the bush. If the

metal outer shell of the old bush had deteriorated badly, it is possible that the die will cause the shell to expand. In the event, it will not be possible to push the bush out. In order to do so, you will first have to remove the rubber inner from the shell. It may be possible to do this by using the centre pin only to push against the rubber and break the bonding adhesive (as happened with one of ours). If this does not work you will

have to cut it out. Now peen

the edges to the inside using a suitable punch. Do not use a hammer to hit it directly, as you may damage the edges of

the bush housing and consequently not be able to fit the new bush. Here it’s viewed from the other side. Fit a

hacksaw blade though the shell and cut through it to relieve the pressure, being careful not to cut into the bush housing. Refit the tool, with die and centre pin, and expel the remains of the

bush shell. Clean and lubricate the bush housing and new bush shell. Refit the

special tool the opposite way round, engaging the lips in the same way as before and, using the shaped die and centre pin, press the new bush into the

housing ensuring its orientation is exactly as was the original. Not like this or this Note:

It was at this point we realised that the shaped die was missing from Yan’s VAG 3111, so we had to pack the three of us, and the beam, into Yan’s C and do a dirty dash over to JMR who kindly agreed to help us out.Repeat the process for the other side.Reassemble in reverse order of removal with torque settings as follows:Pivot Bracket to body bolts 70Nm (52 lb ft)Pivot bolts 60Nm (43 lb ft)Damper to hub bolts 70Nm (52 lb ft)Top mounting to Damper nuts 25Nm (18 lb ft)Top mounting top lock nuts 15Nm (11 lb ft)Brake lines; no specific value but do not overtighten; enough so they do not leak.Here you can see the new exhaust we fitted while we were there, and detail of the brake

compensator and reversed LH pivot bolt. Bleed the

rear brakes (nipples are 10mm). If the fluid looks anything like this (18 months old!) it would be a good idea to replenish the whole system with new (DOT 4), and make sure you have a

maintainable pedal pressure before driving.