MoonlightVR6

Excuse my stupidity, I saw a replacement fuel pump assembly on ebay for £60 odd quid. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VEMO-Fuel-Pump-Volkswagen-CORRADO-2-9-VR6-1987-1995-/360812931222?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AVW%7CModel%3ACorrado&hash=item5402206896 Will this part fit and work ok on my '93 VR6? I just spoke to VW and the official part is £202 + vat. Has anyone else bought this part and had any problems with it? What should I do, buy the cheap part or just fork out and get the proper VW part?

[video=youtube_share;h0qMPOnxkpI] This video should show the movement of thwe fuel pump, surely this isn;t meant to do this is it?

Hi guys, I had a chance to have a look at the beast today to see if I could figure out whats up with her. Initially, as I thought it was a fuel issue, I disconnected the fuel line (well what I thought was the fuel line) by the air intake on the front of the engine, the rectangular bit that goes under the manifold thing. See pic 1. This was the right part to check yes? I tried turning it over and giving it gas at the same time, no fuel came out apart from that which was in the pipe when I disconnected it (before turn over). I tried the same (turn it over with fuel/gas) and checked either end of the fuel filter, no petrol came out, so I think the pipe is ok. Where she's sitting its quite noisy so I couldn't tell/hear if the fuel pump activated upon turning the ignition, so I opened up the fuel tank to have a look. The actual pump that sits in the housing at the bottom of the tank, felt loose in this housing (see video), it wobbled about maybe 2-3 mm, so I pulled it out of the housing and tank. (I noticed a very small rubber O ring came off the bottom of the pump and its pretty far down in the housing, ****! I will have to make a tool to get this out, as its resting on the bottom of the housing, at least its not the bottom of the tank!!! [ATTACH=CONFIG]76712[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76713[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76714[/ATTACH]) Is there supposed to be some sort of rubber O ring that seals the actual fuel pump in the fuel pump housing in the tank (this is around the top part of the fuel pump, it appears it seals the top of he pump into the housing, thus making it airtight), because if so this has degraded into a thick, sticky, greasy mushy substance. I assume that if this rubber o ring was to make it air-tight so the vaccuume would suck up the fuel, then this is probably my problem? What do you think, is this top rubber o ring, or is it some sort of grease that is supposed to be there? I have attached some images of the removed fuel pump, note all the black rubbery stuff. And of the housing in the tank, you can see the black stuff on there too. I checked the fuse and it looks good, I dont know how to check the relay thing but they are only about a tenner so a new one of those is nothing to get... The cap that goes over the pump and housing in the tank, that has a rubber bit that felt like it was degrading too but this is still semi ok. it hadn't turned into a sticky mush but did feel pretty soft and sticky... Should I also replace this bit? I hope that doesn't sound too confusing, I dont know how to explain it differently.

When I changed the fuel filter there was fuel that bled out from the pipe that ran (rear drivers side wheel)to the engine. As well as some from the tank. Was I supposed to bleed this pipe(from filter to engine)?

I tested for a spark when I popped the new plugs in, it seemed ok. So hence why I thought it could be petrol. I don't know. The old plugs smelt of petrol but they didn't look wet per-say. Hmmmm?!

I have checked the sparks, they seem ok. When I turn it over, it turns over ok, but it just doesn't kick in. The engine speed sensor, when I turn it over maybe 1 in 5 times the rev counter moves, is this normal, I cant remember from when I had it before. The rev counter moves upto maybe 1000 or just below then returns to the needle. Its not every time and only for a brief second. Could this point towards the engine speed sensor?

Cheers Dave, I will have a look now

Hi Can anyone advise me about the Fuel pump on my VR6. Where its located, part numbers etc?

My VR6 has been in storage for about 5 years. It ran fine before it went into storage... I got her back the other week, as I am on a tight budget I decided to service her myself. I got her a new battery. New oil & oil filter (the filter has not been changed as the housing is rounded and really tight & I cant get it off. It was serviced about 700 miles before it went into storage anyways, so the filter shouldn't be too fooked, as soon as she's running I can get her to VW - I bet they have the tool I need) but the oil has been changed. New sparks & new air filter. New fuel filter (the arrow points to the engine right?) I tried draining all the fuel out before the fuel filter change but it could still have some remnants in the tank. I have since put about 15-20 worth of Vmax in her. I have the coolant fluids but need to start it so I can get it closer to my work so I can flush the coolant system using a hose. I assume this shouldn't affect it starting though, and once it starts moving it slightly before changing the coolant. Tried starting her and no joy, she makes a noise as if she's going to start but doesn't actually turn over. I even tried tow starting her, but as my car park is small it didn't work. Any ideas as to what maybe causing the problem??? Fuel pump maybe? If I unconnected the fuel filter, put ignition on and it should pump it toward the engine right?

Tried today with a larger socket fitment, it just kept jumping. I think the bottom bit is knackered, it looks pretty rounded off, I probably made it worse with the mole grips yesterday, kill me! We tried the belt variety on the larger top bit and it didn't work, both types at the same time, no joy either ha. I am going to go tomorrow and try and get the cup variety, failing that I think I may have to get it out and into a vice. If this is the case, there is 3 wires going into the top of the housing (the other end all together, coming from top of engine) can these be unclipped or will it damage them, they look real fragile? How much would a whole new housing be(top and bottom), if its still available? @Fla, Northood, I know it well I went to school there haha its a small world... I can see me racking your brain a lot in the future!

Hi people, I am an complete idiot when it comes to fixing my Rado, but I want to try to bleed the brakes tomorrow. I have a bleed tool which my engineer friend told me is really useful. I plan to follow the order Mr Ots mentioned earlier , osr, nsr, nsf, osf. Here is my dumbness shining through. You mention I need to also bleed the "Then bleed at the two bleed nipples on the top left of the ABS pump and finally the bleed nipple on the master cylinder." Where exactly are these 2 parts housed? ...Would I be right in assuming one will be located near the fluid reservoir, if I follow the pipes down? My car is stranded at my work so I cant have a look under the bonnet until tomorrow.

I have seen a cup that grips the top flat parts of the housing in halfords, I am going to try that tomorrow. The parts shop I went to had a tool with a chain attached, but the guy reckons that I should get the cup as the chain one could split the housing because its made of plastic... Im based in Ruislip, N/W London. Its probably a bit too far for me to expect you to travel. But thanks, I really appreciate your offer Rog. :-)

Sorry I know this is a noob question. Does this book relate to the UK VR6 as well as the US VR6 engine? I was under the impression the 2 engines are different are they not? If not, is there a specific book that relates to the UK cars?

Thanks guys. I actually assumed that the sump plug was what it was but I didn't want to undo it unless I was 100% sure. The oil is all out of the sump now. I managed to get the oil out of the filter, but whoever changed it last time (I think it was VW, as it was about 5 years ago) has rounded the bottom spanner - flat bit (think its a 34mm). I was trying to lock a set of mole grips onto the rounded part (that the filter bleeder screws into) but its not budging, and I am worried I will make it completely circular. Is there a special tool that can clamp onto the flat spanner bits that is on the top of the bit that unscrews - with an Approx diameter of 130mm? Before it went off the road it had a full service. How essential would replacing this filter be prior to attempting to start her, considering it has been sat there for 5 odd years?

Can anyone guide me through changing oil and oil filter on my vr6. The Mann filter i have looks different to my previous car's filter... This one looks like it goes into the sump somehow and on my Toyota it just looked like a can that screwed onto the engine. I'm baffled.

I got the new battery in and she locked first click of the fob, so I know the lock itself actually locks, its just being temperamental with the key. I'll try your recommendation of WD40 and let you know how I get on. I was worried some tramp would try and steal her.

If it definitely wont leak, I will leave it for now then. As she has other issues, which are probably more important. Cheers people.

Sorry, what is this classic parts shop, do you have a link by any chance?

Nice one Rams, I thought it maybe a part that was just put on when they made it and never made as a spare. Does it have a specific name? I couldn't see if it would stop water coming into the inside of the car, I don't think it would as they are pretty cracked and have been for a while. At least I can replace it, its a bit pricier than I expected so it may have to wait a month or 2, but at least I know its fixable... I thought I may have to fill it with bathroom silicone, which would look rubbish.

On the roof is 2 rubber seals that runs along the black strips each side. Can these be replaced?

Ahh man I think DGAutotech are going to be a bit too far for me, will give them a try anyway. Can anyone recommend anyone in n/w london area?

Hi Jamesoff, where did you go to in the end if you did? My Corrado has been in storage for about 5 years and I need to get her fixed, asap.

I have only just got it back from storage and I remember it was tricky when I had it originally. I tried all manor of things and I couldn't get it working. Pushing it in a little & turning, turning other way. The same for both keys. Can the lock just break if its not been used for ages? I'll buy a battery tomorrow and try it then with the key fob.

It wont budge, is it knackered? What about manually? I need to lock it tonight and tomorrow I can get a battery for it soI can electronically lock it... thanks anyway BILLCOR

Thats what I thought, but neither key turns at all, the button just goes in and open the boot. Could it be because there is no electric? Can I lock it manually from the inside of the boot? Somehow?