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  2. Have you tried operating the sunroof with the allen key? It should slide back ok - if not, it's a sign of a broken mech or cables, or one about to break - most common symtom being tilt but no slide, and the lhs side one seems to go more often. Also sounds like your motor could be on it's last legs, probably overworked trying to shift a seized mechanism.
  3. Water has a tendency to travel in the most unusual ways. Another area to look if not the door membranes or sunroof drains is the windscreen itself. Rot can fester between seal and screen and allow water to flow. I'd be tempted to get the seats, sound deadening and carpet out and try to find leaks that way also.
  4. I like the height with the H&Rs, I like some comfort and pleased to report even with a 90mm splitter I can make it over those central speedhumps without touching. The powerflex rear bushes I do not notice on ride quality but they stiffen up the rear on handling. Difficult to describe but the rear follows the front in a positive way/you feel it rotate. Happy for now at least.
  5. Ok, so I've now found a new problem - the sunroom no longer works. I'm pretty sure that it used to tilt but not slide (common problem I know) but now it doesn't do anything. I've taken the motor out and it will run most of the time when using the front-back action on the switch, and some of the time when using the tilt open\close action. I'm not sure if this is normal or not, I'm guessing that maybe it has logic which only allows it to run depending on what postion it thinks the roof is in? I've refitted the motor and I can hear the microswitches click in every direction of the switch but it does not try to run. I can open it in tilt mode using the manual override, but this doesn't give me access to the drainage holes. Is there any way to manually slide the sunroof open?
  6. Thank for the link. I now have some on order. I ran lot of water down the door glass with a hose and I did find one area on the drivers side which was letting in water, so I've re-sealed that. Most of the water is coming in on the passengers side though.
  7. Amazing work chap! crazy attention to detail 🙏
  8. Inspirational work mate....makes me want to pull my finger out and get mine sorted Also thinking of going down the Koni / H&R route...how are you finding the ride height?
  9. Last week
  10. Clean pass on the MOT. Still long crank when warm though. And another issue I had thought would "go away" with use is the flywheel. It had the chains/clutch etc last year at stealth but it judders when you engage clutch, mot place reckons flywheel needs work. I'll take it back to Vince, want to swap out subframe and fit uprated ARBs anyway and don't fancy the job myself.
  11. Here are the clips https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221255683151?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oVHWpHOgT3q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fE0d-bB2R7m&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Mine were missing on my last corrado after a respray and it is surprising how much collects in the boot without these! Are you door plastic sheeting membranes good and well sealed with butyl type adhesive? Water gets through otherwise at a surprising rate.
  12. It runs from each corner of the sunroof cassette. There is a small plastic host attached to it which runs down the inside of the A pillar, into the scuttle area and out of the drain channel near the wing.
  13. Do you happen to have any photos showing the location of the sunroof drain?
  14. The door cards are off at the moment and they look perfect. I'm going to pour some warer down the window just to be sure. The Corrado badge definately needs attention as it's come away from the body at one side. Is anywhere selling the clipes and grommets? I'd be suprised if it was just this though as quote a lot of water is finding its way into the boot. I plan on getting into the boot myself while it's close and have someone pour water around it.
  15. I've been so busy with work that I've had to shelve my plan of getting my rado legal this month. Highly annoying seen as the weather has been great! I'm looking to get it sorted for the 1st of June and will give all these suggestions a try. Chris Knott will be my first port of call due to the fact that you are present on our forum. Thank you for the web link! Very helpful. thank you to all.
  16. Also the sunroof drain as well as the door membranes. The water will pool at the lowest point, so it can be hard to work out where exactly it's getting in - but doing the seal on the fresh air intake is a good call. The issue is you will need to remove at least the right one of the three piece lower window edge trim, and this is most likely stuck on with sealant, which will have to be very carefully cut off so as not to damage the glass. Originally from the factory each panel is held won by a couple of two-piece plastic clips, but as these are old and brittle they are likely to break during removal - but replacements are easily got online.
  17. They are also stuck on with a gasket, however have you checked the membrane behind the door card? This is often the source of water in the pass footwell and the membranes get battered over the years. Rear boot leak - have the grommets behind the badges been off and not replaced?
  18. I must be the oldest newbie in town having joined in 2004. But I guess if you only post 50 odd times in 20 years then you're still classed as a newbie! 🙂 Anyway, I'm trying to get my VR6 watertight so that I can use it more. I have water ingress into the passenger footwell and also the boot, but it's the former that I'm trying to tackle currently... I've been doing research online and it seems that the most likely culprit is the drainage around the fresh air intake. I'm assuming that I need to take the plastic cover off in order to remove the airbox and replace the seal. It seems that I need to take the section of scuttle cover off because the rear of the plastic airbox cover is secured under it, but I'm vary waring of breaking the cover and the clips as I know how hard it will be to replace them. I've been able to pry the front of scuttle cover up from under the metal clips and I've removed the screw in the corner, but it's still held in place by something underneath, which I assume are plastic clips? Are there any tricks to removing the cover without breaking anything? Any exploded diagrams would be very useful also so that I can see what I'm dealing with. Thanks in advance!
  19. Ha- "Stark Industries"! They must be having a laugh, or else it's a play on the German, "stark" meaning "strong", or in slang cool/sound/great.
  20. Yeah he cancelled the order in the end... However I swapped out the cam sensor to the one from my previous Corrado and changed the coil pack back to the origina VW item that came with the car and it started ok after a long warm up to fans last night. Time will tell and needs road use. MOT booked later this week. I ordered a Beru coil pack from autodoc but they delivered a Stark item. I know it is an unknown brand but was running it. I didn't open the box for months, cheeky buggers changed the invoice online to Stark also. There is no way i'd pick that brand myself.
  21. Haha. In Ireland the premiums only ever go up!
  22. With AXA on a classic policy here in Ireland, €290 fully comp with two drivers and claims protection. Need to have a daily insured with them though.
  23. Based in Germany, seems completely legit. If they list on fleabay.co.uk they should be willing to ship? Could be an issue with the carrier, so maybe ask them to ship DP/DPD standard post. I get stuff from Germany all th time, alebit to Ireland, but I use an AdressPal service in the UK and US for sellers that won't ship internationally and just pay a surchage for the final leg.
  24. This is the advert https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266805869325 It's well below the £135 value as well.
  25. Seems strange - from where? They just need to declare a customs value - it’s more likely the shipping agent they are using.
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