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Thomas Boyce

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    16
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10 Good

About Thomas Boyce

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 11/14/1984

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  • Location
    Cardiff, United Kingdom

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  • Interests
    Snowboarding, Playing Guitar, Music on Facebook Any Thing by Phillip Pullman or Stephen King Back to

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  1. hi john ill definitely consider bringing it down to you, will try and find somewhere closer first though as the cars in cardiff and its quite a mission down to you guys cheers
  2. a few months ago my 2.0 16v after running like a dream since id had it, decided not to start. Turns over and sparks for a couple of seconds then stalls itself. spent a few weeks swapping fuel pumps fuel lines coil packs and various other sensors and bits. after spending a lot of time and money the car still does the exact same thing. Had a couple of garages that would come out to me with obd readers try plugging in but none of them seemed to connect correctly with the car and either read error or no codes, i know there should be codes there anyway because the abs lights been on since ive had the car. anyway ive given up and are going to borrow a trailer and take it somewhere that might be able to sort it as at the moment its just sitting on my drive depressing me evertime i look out the window. anyone know anywhere that specializes in these cars that might be able to figure it out, ive tried googling and had not much luck help would be massively appreciated Thanks Tom
  3. ok pulled all the relays in and out and checked all the fuses all seem fine now the immobilizer is strange, i realized when i went to check it that none of my keys are original or have transponders, in fact the key i used on a daily basis i had made down the road in a standard locksmiths, however there is a immobilizer unit and transponder ring around the barrel as described could the immobilizer have been wiped from the ecu in the past and somehow the ecu reset to factory recently? might ring the rac later and see if they can vagcom it, the obd reader i have only errors with the rado
  4. Thanks for the advice peeps ill check all tomoro and update
  5. the lambda sensor was new for the last mot a couple of months before the problem i tried disconnecting it anyway just to see if it made a difference but the reaction was the same. the car is a 1995 but it was the ignition switch not barrel i changed with no luck however ill look into the immobilizer thinking about it realistically it probably is more like 5 seconds maximum without timing it didnt realize thered be a factory fitted one thought it would all just be part of the aftermarket viper one on there. anyone know anything about these and anyway to go round it or is it pretty solid? can you run a vagcom without the car running?
  6. yeah a viper one, thought the engine wouldnt even turn over if it was that though?
  7. ill have a look later and have a go but as far as i remember there is only one with a spade head and a spare wire thats been zip tied at some point, unless im thinking of my old kr
  8. forgot to mention also changed the fuel pump relay
  9. hi in the middle of an absolute nightmare car was driving beautifully then got in the car a couple of weeks ago after a couple of days without driving (2.0 16v) and she refused to start, fired for a second then wouldnt even fire at all. have changed a few parts and sensors and it will fire now but almost imediately cuts out. i originally suspected the coil pack so replaced that with no difference whatsoever still no fire i then went through everything i could think of to get the beast going again so all together ive changed:- new ignition switch new in tank lifter fuel pump new fuel filter new fuel pipe between the undercar pump and accumulator (cracked it changing the fuel filter) new undercar fuel pump new coolant temperature sensor and the already mention coil pack for a second hand one the car does fire for 5 sometimes 10 seconds now but dips out giving it a little gas on the accelerator doesnt make any difference anyone have any ideas or had the same problem before i waste any more money? was thinking maybe the maf but it looks fine on inspection and its definately getting fuel now, loads of pressure at the injectors any help would be appreciated, im quite new to posting as i usually just read around till i find my answer but this time im completely stuck, cant even get the car to the garage for an opinion HELP!
  10. just took it all apart and it seems the washer bit that goes under the cable is not there at all, guessing it was plastic and deteriorated, gonna see if i can find a washer to fit it tomoro, glad i didnt take a hammer to it
  11. the lever fixing bolt itself is loose, looks like it should screw in but a video i watched online said it pushes in and to hit it with a rubber hammer, doesnt seem right
  12. [ATTACH=CONFIG]76647[/ATTACH] its number 5 on this diagram i found in a video
  13. the actual bit it bolts onto that hold the selector arm thing, ill try and post a picture
  14. the weight is firmly in place its the bit under it that has lots of play, could be a washer has deteriated or something, cant find any diagrams of what its supposed to look like anywhere or whats supposed to be there but i dont think it was that loose when i got the car
  15. anyone know if theres a way to tighten this or do i just hit it with a rubber malet as has been suggested to me, definately dont want to break it as parts are getting hard to find. The car does still change gear fine at the mo but its so loose the weight only just sits in the guide hole and you can hear it rattling over bumps any suggestions would be helpful thanks
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