Storm Monkey

It's in at the garage this week. The belt has been off and the noise was still there, so we can rule out alt, pumps etc. It's much more a whine than a clatter. They were going to change the oil this morning and add an additive of some sort with the hope that it circulates and reaches parts that perhaps have been left a little dry following its long layup. If that doesn't work, I'm at a loss. Phil

Well, next time I fired her up all was much quieter again. Still a bit tappety but as it always was. I git the brake swap finished, fixed the door handle, minded the mirror switch and took her for an MOT. She needed a new steering rod boot but passed with no other issues. My fears the exhaust was shot were unjustified. 22 years on the first exhaust isn't bad. All was good for a few days then I noticed an engine whine. It sounds like driving with straight cut gears, but isn't transmission. I dropped in to see my mechanic and he gave the auxiliary belt a quick squirt of WD which made no difference. He thought it sounded like it was coming from the top end, although the alternator was very hot so he was puzzled. Any body had anything similar? It is only just in service after a long layup. It's going in on Tuesday and they are going to start by removing the aux belt to see if the sound goes. Also going to drain and flush the oil system then take a look at the top end. I'm gutted as shes never put a foot wrong before this. Any ideas in the mean time would be helpful though...... Phil

Ok, thanks. I'll give that a go. It makes sense that the chain shouldn't loose tension by doing nothing. Next challenge is the rear carrier bolts whose heads are buggered and skin the cat who has used my open bonnet as a slide. Thanks, Phil

After a lay-up of about 2 years I finally have time and a pressing need to get the Corrado up and running again. I started her up the other day and all sounded ok as far as I remember (I may be wrong). I decided to start with the 288mm and mk4 brakes upgrades as I know it needs brake work to pass an MOT, following which I could look at what else needs done. When I came to move the car to the workshop I got an almighty rattling from the engine. It sounds worse than our tractor and was definitely a damn sight quieter when it went into storage. I've tried to link a video with the sound at tickover. http://vid336.photobucket.com/albums/n341/mulrain/20161011_213829_zpssdvn70ow.mp4 Ignore the clunk every few seconds.... the alarm sounder is shot and does that whenever the battery is connected (replacement is on my job list). From other youtube videos I'm guessing its timing chain slack but have a few questions:- Does this sound like loose chain rattle? Is there any way of checking the tension without dismantling the engine bay? What is the fix? New tensioner bolt, new guides, new chain and all bits? Is a lengthy lay-up likely to lead to this sort of noise? Could it just go away as oil re-circulates or do I need it looked at? Can I drive it? The garage i'd get to do the work is about a mile away. I have no time to do it myself. Anything else I should get sorted if the timing chain gets done? Water Pump? I didn't check the oil level since re-starting but it was ok when put away and didn't leak anywhere. I'll check this evening. The engine is a VR6 with about 70k on the clock. Thanks, Phil

Its insurance time again and this time I'm going to get proper classic car cover. One thing i need to add is an agreed value, but have no Idea what my car is worth. Can any of you kind chaps give some hints as to value? This is the old girl, pretty much unchanged since I got her, only now has Koni/H&R suspension, recently referb'd wheels (originals) and about 69 500 miles on the clock. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8406&p=82424#p82424 http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=qOXr-JRDvIU There are minor stone chips and a few scratches on the bonnet and doors, and a very small scuff on the rear bumper, but apart from that, its in fine working condition, and the interior is in excellent condition. Thanks Guys, Phil

I took a look on Volkszone and was a little surprised to see a few advertised at around £400 :cuckoo: :wave: :clap: :D . There is also one similar on Ebay, about a day from finishing, at £180, reserve not met. Looks like a bit of a "Cash in the attic" type find, so I'm kind of pleased. Cheers for the info, Phil

I thought this would be a good place to start, although not a Corrado question. I know a load of you guys have older VW's aswell. Anyway, to the point. Whils clearing out the workshop at my mother-in-laws, I stumbled over a little gem of a find. I now have an original and complete Hazet in wheel tool kit, which refers to fitting to VW 1200's to 1600. All tools are in place, and in good condition. The only issue is the box, which has flaked paint and thin surface rust, though nothing that 10 mins in the shot blaster and a few coats of paint wouldn't fix. There is no "structural" rust damage whatsoever. As I don't have anywhere to install this kit, the long term plan is to sell it. Question is, how much are they worth? There is one on ebay st the moment for £107 :gag: , reserve not met, but it has the VW logo, and mine has the Hazet logo. Secondly, so renovate and sell, or sell as is? Any help much appreciated. Oh, I've put this here cos it ain't meant to be a selling thread. If this is wrong, then mods, I apologies, and please move. Regards, Phil

Give it time....... The 1.8T is a well supported engine, e.g. loads of tuning stuff available, and being older, is a damn site cheaper. Found several 1.8T engined passats, around the 100k mark, for under £1000, so not a hugh expense. The 2.0 TFSI will become more popular as numbers in the market increase, and more people write off doner cars. Phil

My C sits in my garage most of the time, and comes out once every fortnight or so, in winter, and about once a week in the warm and dry month(s), for the work run (about 30 miles round trip). She only has 69K on the clock, and I intend to keep that down. Touch wood though, all she has needed in 5 years has been a new clutch. The suspension was just cos I wanted to. My daily motor is an 07 Octavia L&K Estate, 2.0 PD Tdi. It isn't that much slower then the VR6, to 60, but is quieter, more comfortable, more efficient, bigger, and a lot more repairable (all spares still available) should something happen. I also get to us the wifes Navara. Now that really is a different kettle of fish :shock: Phil

The 1.9PD would be a cracking choise. Those things tune up very well indeed. Cant remember exactly. but there is a guy on http://www.Briskoda.net who has a fabia 1.9 pd running at about 250-260bhp, and criusing at 50ish mpg still. I think he goes under "Devonutopia". He has all sorts added, including LPG injection, serious gains are easily achievable with a simple remap! Will be watching with interest. Phil

I'm running Kont TA's and H&R springs, and they are really very good. Handling is ecxellent, and the ride is much less wallowy, but still comfortable and reasonably comfortable. It is very sure footed on good roads now. The drop is also very pleasing, and just about puts the wheels in the centre of the arches, without going too low (for my liking anyway). The action of the dampers (hard to press, easy to extend) is about right. If it were easy to press in, the car would wallow/drop over bumps, and return very slowly. IIRC, turn clockwise to tighten, though it should be obviously stiffer at the extremes of adjustment, so you should be able to work it out. As for bump stops, I got the rears from GSF, as they need to be trimmed, and the GSF ones are supposed to be better to trim, and the fronts from VW. The fronts were from a mk k golf GTi, as they are about the right length for the 25-30mm drop. You might want to consider new top mounts and top bearings while your at it, depending on the condition of yours, and for the H&R springs, you will need early VR6 top spring plates, if you have a later car. Phil

Ideally you need a 22mm box spanner, as you need to get an allen key through the top wrench, into the top of the front strutts. I don't have one, and couldn't find one, so cut the top off of a long 22mm socket, and jammed it in a pair of mole grips. It was rough and ready, but worked. If you are lowering, and its a late VR, you may need new front spring discs. You do if you fit H&R springs (which I can recommend, with Koni TA's). Don't forget you will almost certainly need a full set of new bump stops and top mounts. Mine were practically dust when they came off, and if lowering, you'll need to trim the rears, and get golf mk4 GTI fronts (bump stops, that is). I had never attempted suspension before, but it was not difficult, with only the ETOS diagrams and torque figures (sorry, cant remember them, but they came on a sheet of paper with the dampers anyway). With the Koni's, the top plates needed to be drilled out a bit, but not difficult. The only problem we had was that the front top bolts were seized, asd neither WD40 or a blow torch would shift them. :shock: In the end, we drilled the old suspension strutt top thread out, and the nuts fell off. From there it was plane sailing. If you are not practiced, then leave yourself about a day (including cups of tea, shopping for the wrench you just broke etc), and when you have the alignment sorted, make sure you get a full camber and alignment done. Hope this helps, Phil

No help, but me too. My whole car is littered with very minor stone chips and scratches. Sadly it will involve a complete respray, by the time I've connected the dots. I'm guessing some filling and sanding of the damage, then a general sand down of the whole car with some fine wet and dry. Phil

Camber/tracking knocked out of line? Would explain a deterioration of handling, with nothing falling off. A sudden slip due to a speed hump could have made quite a bang. Phil

Didn't have much fun with my clutch replacement at the Loughborough garage. It has juddered since it was fitted. I thought it might 'bed in' after a few hundred miles, but its taken me 2 years to do 800 miles, so don't think I can take it back and complain now! Phil