steveh

Considering putting up my storm for sale in the very near future.

There are a few bodywork issues (some minor dings, rust spots and not so minor ding in the rear wing).

Would like to know peoples views on whether you think it would be wise to bring the bodywork up to scratch before selling or sell it as is and let people see the car "warts and all" so they know exactly what they are getting.

Am sitting here unable to make a decision which way to go.

Any tips welcome!

Hi

Can anyone tell me what the bolts that hold the stub axle on are supposed to be torqued to?

Saw the item in knowledge base but it didnt really tell me what the stub axle bolts should set to.

Thanks in advance.

Steve

mention for StueyB

aux water pumb arrived perfectly packaged and was sold at a fair price.

A++++

OK had my first major failure on the Storm.

Starter motor just died, turns out the main power feed from the solinoid to the actual motor has just corroded away to nothing.

Got the starter out and had it refurbed by a local person.

Problem now is I just can get the upper starter motor bold back in, this bolt is the really long one that appears to go into the engin mount too.

The thread just does not want to take even thought the thread if perfect. It appears that the alignment is just a tiny bit out.

Any one with any tips or advice on how to get this f*cking blot back into the hole.

Hopefully this will affect a lot of you folks, just got the renewal for the Storm through.

326 GBP down from 506 GBP last year, 200 GBP excess and up in not so sunny dundee.

ok. i'm an old git with load of NCB but I am thinking/hoping this is the effect of the rebanding they were talking about recently for cars.

just had the renewal from my broker for my Storm, initally it was to be £545, he called and it is now only going to be £375 fully comp & protected NCD.

Now that a result !!

Old git (42) with no-claims discount for ever.

Actual company is NIG and it is just my local broker

Couldnt believe it, yesterday driving along East Dock Street in the centre of Dundee saw a mirror image of my blue storm coming towards me.

I drive on for about another 2 miles and pass by a green storm parked up in Broughty Ferry.

3 Storms in 5 minutes within about 2 miles of each other, and this wasnt even an organised meet.

So much for the exclusivity that i wanted when i bought her !!!!

I have had my Storm for a month now and this is the same kind of noise that i am getting. Only happens in 1st gear when moving off. Seems to more noticable when coming away from an uphill junction.

Cant seem to pin it down, no apparent slippage.

Has nobody got to the bottom of this in the past?

likewise no rush from me.

just as and when.

cheers

yes, a pix of the just badge before painting and one of the finished article would be interesting.

if price is ok and quality ok then i would be up for a couple of them, to swap with my original before some "thieving gypsy bast*rd" tamperferes with it.

yeah that's what i was thinking, k&n panel filter and the big F**king holes drilled in the airbox. Seen some pix on here showing what/where should be drilled.

Thanx for the offer of assist Timmo.

Steve

they are quoting for one for the 1.8 16v, its the same part no as the 2.0 16v.

so thanks for the pointer.

steve

Thought last reply was taking the pi*s, the link should be for .co.uk, the .com is for the bleedin game.

Thanks for the pointer anyway mate.

Steve

Anyone got the partnumber for the K & N Panel Filter for a 1.8 16v

Can anyone give me any pointers in the most sensible upgrades to 1.8 16v.

Looking to get better grunt low down the rev range, better accelleration etc etc etc.

But dont want to alter the car from standard too much, but a wee bit more poke would be nice.

I always run the tank from full to just about touching the red, when i do this it always takes 50 L +- 1 ba hair (ball for southerners). I always reset the trip at fill up and i normally get about 300 miles to the tank, this has been as high as 360 and as low as 280. MFA normally shows 23-28mpg but doing the maths (plural ya yankee gits) on the numbers it works out at about 28-34 mpg. This is a 16v 1.8 88k on the clock and i drive it reasonably hard with a fair bit of town driving.

did you check the single fuse that is at 90 deg to the others, it is high up above the relays and mid way across the fustboard/relay panel.

that is the one for the doors / windows.

Had me foxed for ages as i didnt see it.

Just sticking this up for other peep's benefit. Lost the the windows today, completly dead, same with the cental locking.

Checked every fuse in the main row and they were all ok. None marked as windows / doors fuse (Cheers VW).

Tracked down the central door lock pump and checked if there was a fuse in there......nowt.

Then discovered there is a 20amp fuse mounted off on its own, above all relays. Sits sort of midway across the fusebox but very high (and out of sight).

Fuse blown, fuse replaced, all OK.

Might save someone else chasing their tail.........with the rain on and the window down and not working.

leaking sunroof......

check the two drain pipes at the front corners are not blocked with s*it.

i used a jug of water and part of a wire coathanger to clear mine and rinse through.

you should see the water come down in-board and behind each of the front wheels

Do the numbers for a couple of tanks of gas, run it from top to bottom of the tank and zero the MFA when you do. A couple of tanks worth will give you true readings.

Did this to mine (1.8 16v) and the MFA tends to read about 25-27 when in reality is is returning about 30-32.

I tend to assume about 300 miles on a tank.

Not wanting to teach to suck eggs but.....

Miles Covered From Refuel / (Litres put in when next refuel / 4.454)

Had similar last year.

Replaced front disks due to warping (new pads too), problem cured.

Disks and pad would still show legal even though the disk is warped!

yeah 15-16 quid for a litre is what i paid.

i made a mistake about the name it is Finesse-It not Finesse 1.

I was told to be carefull if using a buffer as if you are a bit hard it will take too much paint off, especially on edges.

This is mainly for the owners of red c's and other red cars but i suppose it will be applicable for other colours too.

Get yourself a bottle of Finnese-1 from 3M, this is a mild form of cutting compound that the pro vechicle finishers use. It takes the oxide off the red paint a treat.

Done the whole car with this on saturday and then a couple of coats of polish, difference was bl**dy amazing. The dull red paint now is shining like a mirror.

Cheers Roddy, the diagram was exactly what i was needing.

Steve

you cant download the files, gives page not found on both files. Its like the files themselves have been removed but the links left.