MattVR6

Lovely thanks for the info chaps. The short shifter isn't something i'm really after, just if the system I was upgrading to had it I wouldn't complain. Not going to seek one especially, I find the standard throw quite moderate. Ok I will do some digging. Thanks again!

Hi all, I have been quiet the last few weeks. Most of the niggles on my car are now sorted so I thought I would just drive the damn thing instead of keep posting every little problem. So far I have changed the thermostat and housing related bits, need new sensors though I reckon, headlight switch has been replaced, this also caused an immobiliser issue but was traced to a frayed connection. All lights are working correctly, an incorrect bulb was draining all the power from one side. ANYWAYS, back to the question at hand, One of the gear shift cable ends has broken connecting the cable to the transmission. It needs replacing, but I reckon the other one will be soon following suit. I can also feel the whole system feeling worn and sloppy. Rather than just replace the worn component, I would rather upgrade the whole system, hopefully improving the whole driving experience. Is there a VW swap from an uprated or modern vehicle or just a straight aftermarket replacement system? I am looking to change from the gear linkages under the gearstick right down to the transmission. Something from a modern Golf GTI? Maybe that would even include a short shifter also ;D Whatever is recommended, I just want the whole system replaced regardless of cost for peace of mind and improved drivability. The old system needs work doing to it soon anyway, so I may as well make the most of this opportunity. Hope everyone had an enjoyable christmas! All the best, Matt

Hi all, Been quiet for a few busy, it's been a hectic time. I recently replaced my headlight switch but now only the N/S lights work (front and rear) both on sidelights and dipped beam. Full beam works on both fronts. I am assuming this is some sort of relay and not just bulbs as a whole side of the car is affected. I do have a wiring diagram for the light system but can anyone give me any pointers as to where to look first/what to change. Anyone run into this before? Any suggestions? Thanks, Matt

https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/021121117A/thermostat-housing-2-8-aes-t4-1-96-06-03/ Also this is the thermostat housing I have purchased, do I also need to purchase the outlet flanges as well? As seen here: http://www.vr6oc.com/e107_files/public/1298474753_8829_FT424747_thermostat.jpg Thanks

Hi all, Next week (when it arrives) I will be replacing my thermostat, housing and seals etc. When I transfer the 3 sensors to the new housing, is there any way to test them off of the car, as it would be a bit of a missed opportunity to replace them otherwise. Also what is meant by a 2/3 stage fan setup? Is that the number of fans on the radiator (mine has 2) or the number of speeds the fans can spin at? Lastly, my thermostat housing has the brown a/c cutoff sensor.....not a plug? I didn't think my vehicle has air conditioning. Thoughts? Where would the a/c pump be housed if it was present. It would be a lovely addition =)

Hi all, Ok the o-ring on the header tank is intact, but I was doing a lot of research last night and I am 99.9% sure it's the thermostat. I do not have a garage or driveway but I do live on a very quiet road, so minor work can be done to the car. Can the thermostat be removed to be tested without draining the coolant? Would rather test before a new one is purchased if found to be faulty. If not then I will have to purchase a thermostat and housing (the cover is present and intact) and drive to the closest garage (before the car gets too warm) and get them to fix it. Can I then request the garage to keep the old coolant....seeing as it has only done about 4 miles? Or will more be needed? I had G12 put in before.

Roger that. Will check both these tomorrow morning and will let you know

UPDATE: "Issue" is now ISSUE. Drove the car back from the garage after my mechanic again saying he was worries about the cooling system, I said I would look into it. Driving back the car was faultless, no more bouncing idle (air pocket) and temps were all good. As I got back home and parked.....oh dear. The header tanks was hissing and ****ing water everywhere. Obviously a lot of pressure and very hot! However, top rad hose and the engine top was only hot-ish. Both rad fans remained spinning (ignition off) for 5 mins or so. After they had stopped spinning I felt the radiator and it wasn't even warm. I am now worried I reckon this is a faulty water pump due to a lack of water flow? After draining the garages coolant and before putting in the G12, mechanic man said he had the top and bottom rad hoses off, flushing water straight through the rad, no blockages. How can I check that the water pump is faulty? What else may the issue be? Please help! Don't want to damage my Corrado! Matt

Yeah I thought an air lock also as after the test drive (purchase day) the coolant was very low. I topped it up before I drove back home, knowing i would be getting it flushed fully within a week. Occasionally there was a bouncing idle while stopped after driving if the car was up to temp, but would go after a few seconds. This should all be fixed with the service. Ah yeah I have read about that, above 90-93 deg or something the water pump runs? I need to test that, give it a good run then switch off and see if the pump runs on. Also Jim if I do pop over then it would be a bit silly not to!! I still haven't got the car back from the service so I reckon this thread may have been a bit premature. Picking back up tonight so will drive for a few days and update this thread! Thanks for the replies chaps!

Hi all, My rear number plate keeps coming loose! I have taken it off and there are 4 plastic stubs that "appear" to be broken as they are just flat and in no way "fix" to the bumper. I have however seems pictures of surrounds in similar condition. Have my clips broken off, or are there supposed to be some grommets/plastics fittings inside the tailgate for the plastic stubs to fix into? In the meantime, double sided rubber pads have done the trick, however I want this secured properly!! Thanks, Matt

Hi All, Successfully got my car in for a service yesterday at my small independent mechanic. I supplied all my own fluids as per my previous thread. Mechanic contacted me last night with a few issues/questions to do with cooling. After the service he took it for a road test (as he always does) and didn't notice any unusual temps on the dashboard. When back at the workshop, the header tank seemed very very hot, the coolant hoses were hot-ish but the lower radiator pipe was warm at best. He said he gave the lower pipe a few squeezes and then it started to flow hot. All hoses have been replaced 6000 miles ago for samco items and the radiator looks in good nick (although not sure when it was replaced) so i'm guessing a blockage is unlikely. Also the aux water pump no longer runs after the ignition has been turned off. The main water pump is 3 years old and not leaking. During the service, the coolant was flushed and pressure tested. So what do you reckon? I have done some research and it must be either FCM, thermostat or coolant temp sensor. Any guesses as to what could be the likely culprit. How likely is it that the car may be overheating but the temp gauge says otherwise? When I get the car back tonight, I will run some tests to see if my fans work at all 3 stages etc. Also for the road test, he mistakenly put in his own long life coolant. He has since refrained and put in fresh G12 which I supplied. Could this have caused any issues? Cheers, Matt

Lovely cheers guys!

So you have a whole spare VR loom? ;) or just the fan plug? Ah yes, I have some self amalgamating tape, that should do the trick for now

Yeah the previous owner did tell me about the fan connection. Tape and cable ties all round haha. So to answer the question, are the wires safe as they are next to the block? I'm just worried about the head in that location. In the mean time can I just inspect the wires more closely for damage and wrap them in a loom equivalent? I don't particularly want to tape them as if I ever need to extract a wire, its gonna be a bitch. Looks like in the long run, a new loom it is. Assuming the engine doesn't blow up in the next year (due to funds) I expect to keep my Corrado for many many years. The list of jobs grows...... But to answer your question, if you have a spare fan plug then I would be happy to purchase said item. Although let me check first as it may not be the loom connector that is damaged, rather the fan connector itself. What would postage from Italy be cost-wise??

Ok i'll take a look into the Mann filters. I have seen MT90 pop up a lot, but also seen mega praise for the SMX-S. Well, MT90 it is then!! As first and second gear are very notchy when cold. The whole gear selection process is very wooly, and one of the cables (in the engine bay) has been bodged as there is no split pin holding it in. Still goes into gear fine....I just feel it could be a lot better and is the weakest part of the car's driveablility at the moment. I will probably get all the lnkages and cables replaced at some point, and maybe a short shifter installed and stuff. Until then I have no idea when the gearbox oil was last changed, so rather do it for peace of mind eh! I have seen some G13 Deuluxe bottles which come pre dialuted? In which case I would need 10L. Either way I will get dialuted 10L or undialuted 5L as it's a 50/50 mix I have read?