UKLonar

Long time since the last update, I've a few things left to sort out but have done a few bits. I changed the plastic seat guides on the drivers seat to stop it from rocking left and right so much, made quite the difference for a 2 quid piece of plastic! I also fitted Audi TT wiper arms and 20" Bosch aero blades, whilst doing this I replaced all the washer hose under the bonnet. What a world of difference, I'd recommend this upgrade to anyone! I've gone around underneath to check for any surface rust too, only finding a few bits here and there. I've rubbed these all back, treated and sealed to keep it tidy for years to come. I suppose the biggest difference is new wheels, which are BBS RX201 I believe. I bought these as the RH wheels unfortunately developed a slow leak from a split bolt. Few bits to sort next, then I'd have thought it'll be up for sale shortly after.

I can't see how I'd manage that. Unless the new pump is reversed in operation. I've got the fronts connected to the wing side outlet and rear on engine bay side outlet. That's useful to know, I've bought "J hook" style arms, do you reckon I can just reuse my 19" corrado blades? The drivers side smashes into passenger side mid swing then seats itself under passenger one when parked.. which isn't right. I've not touched the stalks recently, they are a bit rubbish mind. But I've gotten used to this owning a Mk2 as well. I'll have a look at the stalks and connectors if an obvious fix isn't found though.

I'd recently discovered that my washer hose was perished going to the front, so I replaced this and for the sake of a tenner.. I replaced the pump too. Whilst I was testing after fitting replacements, I can get fluid but using the wrong stalk function. Also, I think my wipers must have misaligned as they know hit each other... which is great fun. So, if I pull the stalk now.. the front wipers wipe as intended but there's no fluid. I can however hear the pump working. If I push the stalk, I get the front jets working lovely; so I know my new pump and hoses are working great. But no wiper. What do we think is causing these problems? For the washer function: It surely can't be the hoses fitted wrong on the pump; given you can't really mess this up. The connector is the old, two spade type too so that'll only go on one way. For the wipers themselves, do we think this is alignment? I've ordered 2* drivers side TT arms to fit anyway. Any help or guidance for next steps would be ideal. I'm hoping it's something simple.

Not yet mate. I've got the sensors to do on the back still, hopefully that'll sort it.

These codes are from after I'd cleared them the first time. They were also present the first time I scanned the car so definitely something at fault. If new sensors don't do the trick, pedal sensor is next up I suppose!

Friday, 29 October 2021, 16:58:06. VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2 Control Module Part Number: 1H0 907 379 E Component and/or Version: ABS/EDS TEVES 04 Software Coding: Work Shop Code: VCID: 311596C7E831 2 Faults Found: 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction 00287 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Right (G44) 04-00 - Mechanical Malfunction The light only tends to appear once driving for some time, so temp would be up in bay. Where's the best place to get new sensors? Should I change the reluctor rings at the same time?

The light doesn't come on immediately but does turn on and stay on after some driving. It does turn on and turn off during the self check.

Checked in VCDS and used my multimeter to confirm. Both rear speed sensors are knackered by the looks. Where's the best place to get 2 new sensors and reluctor rings (if it makes sense to replace too)? Euros is over a 100 quid!

That's good to know, I figured as much after thinking about it a bit. I went out to test after work using the button on reservoir and my phone to record clocks, the light does illuminate as intended. As such, I've a problem with my handbrake switch/wiring. I'll get the tunnel trim off and investigate. Thank you for your pointers, really helpful.

Occasionally, the car will give an effect which is akin to stamping on the brake pedal and letting go immediately. Sometimes this will be very harsh, sometimes not. This only happens at lower speeds, typically in second or third on light accelerator.

Is it not supposed to illuminate on ignition on with the rest of the warning lights then? I'll test the reservoir using your method, it appears I have misremembered what to do from what I did in the past on my mk2. I suspect the handbrake isn't wired up, it's a mk4 unit but I'll need to remove trim to check.

Ordered those two relays, good to have even as spares. I spoke to Stealth Racing about the weird braking sensation and he reckons it's the "Electronic Diff lock" kicking on randomly. As such, I've disconnected the two front ABS sensors to turn the system off and after a few test drives, I've not encountered the issue.. which may be a fluke but who knows. There's not a lot of info of the EDL system from what I could find, has anyone got a good source of info or has had issues with EDL before?

Since I've had this car, I've noticed no light whatsoever on the dash for the handbrake. I need to check the switch under the handbrake itself, but I carried out a test today to see if it would trigger on disconnecting brake fluid sensor.. it didn't turn on so I suspect something else is at fault. Is it supposed to illuminate on ignition on with the other warning lights? If so, it doesn't do that either. I've tried a second set of clocks, with working LED and that made no difference. Any ideas?

Thanks Keyo, for fuel pump relay I've got relay numbers 80, 67 or 167. That's according to my printout from A2 Resource - CE2 fusebox.

Fuel filter looks new to me, yes.

Sorted the hose for PCV using the above part, thanks for the heads up. Also rewired the fans so that they both spin together, rather than independently depending on stage. Now, with my weird engine braking sensation I've done a vagcom scan and nothing comes up. No meaningful errors found.. today though, it was worse than ever when cold. This time though, every time it happened harshly I could hear the fuel pump buzz afterwards. The relay looks new, but is clearly aftermarket. I'm going to try and get another one and check the plugs on fuel tank. Does anyone else have any other suggestions other than pump? Any suggestions on where to get a relay and if required, a new pump?

Thanks for the help on this, that diagram proved useful. I removed it all yesterday, checked all components were present and observed the rubber spacer was upside down. I refit it all nice and snug after a wipe down and a test today shows no more leak. Happy days, case closed 😁

Really useful thanks, what's the PN for 13? I just whipped it all off and it looked upside down based on that diagram.. fitted it all back together and tightened down so hopefully sorts it. If not I'll order the new parts.

Afternoon all, Went out to test for leaks this morning and found I've got water coming in through the rear wiper. I've had a look on etka and I can't seem to see a seal/grommet on any diagrams. I'd like to replace this. Anyone able to assist please? TIA!

Thanks for the pointers and PNs guys, I'm waiting on a few bits to arrive before I update on fixes. A job for this week is fit the new rad switch, but the weather is pants down here! Another question whilst I remember, my PCV system has been replaced with a K&N style filter as you've seen from the previous image, where the inlet isn't blocked off.. my question is, is there a kit available to route this back into the inlet boot? I've seen 42 Draft Designs do a rather pricy kit (https://www.urotuning.com/products/42-draft-designs-mk3-vr6-pcv-fix-42-130-010) but it's out of stock everywhere and there must be a simpler solution. It's quite irritating seeing it smoke out the bonnet on idle and getting fumed out when I've got my blower fan on.

If the bleed doesn't make it go away, I'll grab a new slave cylinder. Looks like euros does the VW one? Anyone recommened where to get one? On the engine braking front, I noticed that the breather valve on the inlet elbow was missing its bung. The previous owner had put a yellow cap in here but I've no idea where this has ended up. That unmetered air can't be doing a lot of good... Oh and when the problem shows, RPM does not drop to 0. Ordered some silicone caps and I'll chuck one on with a clamp, hopefully that sorts the problem.

Going to try a bleed of the system first to see if that remedies the clutch issue, I couldn't see any obvious leaks. I'll check to see if RPM drops to 0 when the engine issue happens and report back. Will also double check earths in bay.

Managed to fit a new speed sensor on top of the gearbox, a little bit fiddly but an easy job really. Now have a consistently working speedo + Spoiler, happy days. I've got the radiator switch to fit soon, along with a few other bits. I also need to bleed to clutch because the pedal very occasionally likes to stay down a bit which is a little bit annoying. I've got a random issue though, which is quite hard to describe and thus search for a solution on: When I'm driving the car before it has warmed up, I sometimes get this very odd sharp braking sensation, it's almost like really hard engine braking or what you'd get if you quickly had a stab at the brake pedal. This usually happens just as I come onto the accelerator after shifting gear, in smooth operation.. not gunning it or anything. My mates reckon this is a misfire, does that sound right? I'm not getting any weird noises when it happens. I would post in the engine bit, but I don't seem to have access yet 😉

Excellent, I thought as much. Glad that's working as intended then! Yes mate, cross member and subframe were both refinished, here's a pic.

Aux pump buzzes along as intended with ignition on, seems to go on for as long as I've got the key in that position.. albeit I only left it for around a minute. I took a short video to showcase this: Worth noting, it also works when my overrun fans are working, so suspect that this is ok.