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Excellent - thanks for the quick replies. :D So, this is OBD1, right? Cheers.

I know all Corrados are OBD1, but Schricks can be OBD1 or OBD2. Is there any way to tell whether the manifold is OBD1 or OBD2 just by looking at it? It's not fitted to a car, so I can't tell from that. Is it just the controller that's different or is the casting different? Thanks

That reads a bit harsh - don't mean to knock your topic - just my 2p worth!!

The Mini would win hands down. Cos... The Corrado driver would be worried about busting his 10 year old clutch The Golf driver would be an old fart and the mini driver would the kind of d!ck who gives a toss about this kind of crap. Compared to todays hot hatches, the straight line speed of the VR is nothing special. If you wanna go faster than everyone else, buy some Japanese turbocharged heap and get it chipped. Buy a C if you want some finesse to your ride.

Sold my C VR a few months ago, and bought a Boxster 2.7. Can't get the C thing out of my system though - now starting to look for another one as a second car! What's all that about then? Objectively, the Boxster is better in every way - faster, more reliable, better built, dicks on my standard C in the corners, better ride..... My C was a complete tw@t by comparison. It kept breaking, understeered like a barge in the wet, had fek all power below 3k rpm, and don't even get me started on the monkey's at the V-dub dealers! I dunno, somehow the C was just more endearing! Oh, and it's official, a VR6 sounds better than a Porker flat 6! BTW, I have a Shrick VR6 manifold sat in my garage - worth anything to anyone??!!

Of course - doh! I've never used the key to open the doors! Thanks!

This has started rattling inside my door over the last couple of weeks. It was disconnected and loose. Seems to connect to the central locking mechanism. THing is, everything in the door works OK with it disconnected, and there's a little bit of corrosion on the connector making me think it's probably been like this a while. Doesn't look aftermarket either? Any ideas? I've sold the car, and thought I'd just fix a couple of minor irritations for the new owner.... P.S. Pic is of the back bottom corner of the passenger door. Cheers

Yeah, highly recommend the liquid leather. Sorted out the slight marks on my black leather a treat. Ordering process is indeed a bit backward, but mine turned up pronto and was exactly what I'd asked for. The treatment makes the leather supple and smells nice too. Infinately better than autoglym!

Golf Tdi: top car for getting from A to B C VR: top car for going from A to A again just for the hell of it!!

Ha! Me and my mates make the journey down from Stafford to Coed y Brenin every now and then - in my VR I used burn most of a £55 tank over a weekend; went down in a mates TDi the other weekend, and the fuel gauge hardly moved! TDi pulls pretty strong too! Hope you've got a good 'un.

Haven't got a clue. Must be my magic computer skills. Looks pretty nasty!

Did the scuff master and liquid leather treatment this weekend. Before and after photos below, not that they really tell you anything thanks to my photography! :oops: I'm well pleased with the results though. My leather was pretty good to start with, just the following problems. - Bit of cracking as in the photos on the drivers left hand bolster. The dye impregnates the cracks, and seems to smooth them off as well - much less noticeable now. - Small area where the colour had started to wear thin on the drivers seat where it gets rubbed from getting in and out. This area looks like new now. Before I started, I thought the passenger seat was perfect, but I had to do that one as well because the drivers seat looks so spot on! Recommended.

Just added my Mum to my policy with Elephant - £100 reduction. Cheers guys! :D :D

I'll post the before and after shots when the goods turn up. Have a look here in a week or so! :lol:

Well, I've just ordered some of the liquid leather and scuff master. The scuff master is coloured (matched to precise model of car - er, black for me then) and is supposed to cover the small cracks in leather. The liquid leather is just a treatment to soften the leather. £25 all in.

I've used the Autoglym cream on my seats, and I didn't think it did a lot to improve the look of the seats - maybe just feeds them a bit and stops it getting any worse.

Has anyone on here tried anything like this? liquid leather I can't find anything similar on the forum so what d'ya reckon - is this the solution to my crazed drivers seat bolsters or is it just expensive boot polish that'll give me a black arse :?: :?: Cheers,

Cool, so I'll look for 160bhp odd if I get round to getting the car on a dyno. It seems that any flywheel figure needs to be treated with a 'pinch of salt' as Dr Matt says. Makes you wonder how much salt VW added to come up with 190bhp! Obviously not as much as most manufacturers given the performance it gets for the power :D Seriously though, I develop engines for a living, and one thing I have to do is to ensure that if we sell an engine at xxkW, it'll pull that xxkW day in, day out. We don't make engines for cars (the stuff I work on has more litres/cylinder than a VR6 has in the whole engine 8) 8) ), so there's a whole load of differences, but I was surprised at the %loss figures on here. Cheers

I wanted to get my (standard) VR dyno'd to see where it is against the VW 190bhp figure, but all this puts me off. 25 - 30% power loss? That's more than 50bhp. Where does it all go? If all that heat is going to the bearings/oil, surely the whole drivetrain would just fry itself as soon as you got above 60mph? Or is the figure including a loss between the wheels and the output shaft of the rolling road? In which case all rolling roads would give a slightly different result? I suppose the only way to find out how good my car is is to get it on a dyno where some other standard VRs have been and compare. Don't think I'll match 212bhp wherever I take it :lol: Cheers,

Mine did exactly the same thing. Starts fine then cuts out. I changed the ignition switch and the problem went away. There's a guide in the how to section of this site; I changed the switch without removing the seat - it's fiddly but it can be done. Think the switch was about £30 from the stealer.

Coming down a lane on the way back from work today - suddenly have a windscreen full of Mitsubishi Warrior. :shock: :shock: :shock: Thought it was going to be game over - mud on road, ABS working overtime..... ....somehow, we both swerved and avoided a head-on, but I just glanced his rear wing with my front. Gutted!! :cry: Actually, it's not too bad - tiny dent, slight scratch, could sort out some of those stone chips at the same time. But... I'm worried about matching 8-year old classic green paint. So if anyone knows a decent paint shop around Stafford, please let me know!

Cheers for all the comments. DanA - I'd like to tell you I got some mega deal on the car, but I had to pay 7k for it with 75k on the clock. :shock: The guy I bought it off had seen Clarkson's Corrado piece, and wouldn't accept a penny less. I'd spent 2 months looking at cars which weren't quite right, and by the time this one came up I was a bit desperate...

Just thought I'd post a couple of pics of my VR6 and say hello. It's a '96N, 80k, Classic Green. For the time being, it's bog standard apart from the stereo. Might have to do something about that ride height in the not too distant future though. Probs so far: ABS light started staying on - fixed with a new wheel speed sensor after a quick search on here - thanks! Very occasionally starts and then cuts out - possibly ignition switch? Oh, and it's an absolubte b!tch to keep clean. :x Good stuff: Noise, looks, steering, noise, handling, power above 3k rpm, noise.....