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Posts posted by _Matt_
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Looks good, what colour is that? Is it being imported or something?
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Woah that is tidy! I bet the only Corrado in the world to have such attention to detail on those slam panel parts.
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Thanks Chris. Good you got hold of a rear engine mount, I was looking last year for someone else and none available. I'll look again.
If I went VT I think I'd go front for sure, perhaps rear engine and mk2 golf diesel gearbox mount by the looks of things on this forum. Though if I could get a rear engine oem style mount I'd probably do that instead to save some pennies.
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Perhaps it was a collection of parts being weak causing an issue and this part was the last item standing with an issue. Either way can't harm anything except my wallet having a full fuel system part refresh I suppose.
Clutch has got better with use too, Vince suggested doing anoter 200 miles and using the gears to engine brake to bed the clutch in. Not "right" yet but i think it will get there. I'm going back to have the subframe swapped over and some engine mounts in autumn. If i can get some uprated ARBs I will go for those too.
Any thoughts on engine mounts? Understand the rear engine one is obsolete. Is vibratechnics worth it all round? I had the front one last time and no issues with vibration. Assume powerflex would be ok for the steering rack bush? Any other bushes i should look at on the steering column?
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Put 100 miles on the car over the last week. Today I'm off work and back home and decided to test the old FPR by putting it back in the car, going for a drive and waiting 15 mins to restart it. It cranks and cranks.
Swap back to the bosch 4bar and it the car starts straight away after 15 mins sitting.
The only minor issue with the bosch item is that the diameter for the vac line is smaller than the oem fpr. I'll get some smaller diameter vac line to compensate. Oem fpr in the picture.
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Re the dipping - it's not something I have considered. The factory underseal protects well and when I've had any failing underseal causing some rust i've found once gone over with the wire wheel the metal is clean when you've got an inch or two away from the affected area. WIth dipping you also loose many factory features, such as the colour name hand written on the transmission tunnel and the soundproofing material stuck under the scuttle/above bulkhead. You've also got to be pragmatic about it all as these cars as wonderful as they are won't get you back what you end up putting in, even though we all do it from an enthusiast lens, it's sometimes sensible to keep yourself straight on what needs to be achieved.
Good you chatted to Dan, I am on his waiting list but my current corrado doesn't really need anything deparately doing to it. No doubt i'll pick something else up for him to work on. Good for you to go into this as a long term project, I sold a 16v oak green mk2 through impatience, though not sure i really liked the colour that much tbh. Prefer the greys and blues and white.
When you're all done use a good cavity wax, Bilt Hamber are good, to protect it all from inside out.
I've got the Essex border 100meters down the road and the cambridge border a few miles north. Happy to help you out with things - I've got a press for bearings and bushes etc and have restored the front hubs for another corrado chap recently.
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Here is a link to the Corrado gallery at DST
https://www.facebook.com/profile/100063744964176/search/?q=Corrado&locale=en_GB
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I'm also based in Hertfordshire, on the borders between Essex/Cambridge/Herts.
Fabricators are few and far between I have found! I don't really know of anyone locally except for Finishline in Stevenage. I would look at DST Rustworx up Scarborough way. He is a master at fabricating from scratch i.e he could make your arches from sheet metal... which is probably what is needed as any corrado specific panel requiring repair has no pattern part available. Parts shared with the mk2 like rear jack points can be had from pattern parts.
As for cost.... you'll not like this... but it would be cheaper to buy a "good" car from the start. Bodywork is expensive, you're probablt looking at c£3k for welding and c£6k+ for a full respray, more if you want to go back to metal.
Then mechanicals - engine rebuild is 5k+, may get away with chains, head, clutch for about half that. Then refurbishing all chassis parts and replacing with new, inc suspension will be c£2.5k.
I don't want to put you off, anything is possible if you're resourceful and you can save money by doing works yourself.
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They are the same as the the mk2 golf.
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Iirc one of the them will go on the end to match what you have in the car... however I last fixed on of these myself in 2019 so my memory might have failed me.
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No worries!
I changed my FPR today with both my old one from my white corrado (orig part) and a new bosch 4 bar item. Just trying to cure long crank when warm still...
Anyway - before changing when I disconnect the vac line my engine note noticeably changes, a touch higher revs. Trying both bosch and my old one the engine note does not noticeably change when disconnecting the vac line. Perhaps a slight lumpy idle but nothing noticeable.
No idea what that means. Have left the new bosch fpr installed for now.
Weather is too miserable to test.
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The koni kit only comes with a few bits, on top of this you'll need:
Front:
2x Top spring plates 1H0412341 (£30ea from VW classics currently) https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_uk/part/1H0412341
2x Spring top caps (can see in engine bay, you might already have these) 357412319B (£10ea from VW classics) https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_uk/search?q=357412319B
2x Top mount and bearing
2x Bush nuts 1H0412365A for tightening down the top mount to damper (the kit comes with the nut that tightens the top cap) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201173158711?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5339017974&toolid=10049&customid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_32tJftEuU6mnah5vdKBEz23rwIvdCOlDjZ7noLcnndt-1Z-G1oK0aAlSwEALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_32tJftEuU6mnah5vdKBEz23rwIvdCOlDjZ7noLcnndt-1Z-G1oK0aAlSwEALw_wcB
2x bump stop and cover kit 357413175A https://www.autodoc.co.uk/kavo-parts/18460946?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&tb_prm=20678051027&gshp=1&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_oK9KTRj2BaC3rmvKEFY9xW-mYFOAFBDBchYxhN9j23wUvm8zVjZ4aAvmqEALw_wcB
Rear:
2x bump stop and cover kit
kit comes with everything else for the rear
You might want to change your top mounts but the rears tend to last and last if oem.
You may also need the top spring plate and rubber if the coilovers don't use that set up https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394801789828?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-166974-033325-9&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=394801789828&targetid=2282373763631&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9050372&poi=&campaignid=20981831952&mkgroupid=160695684855&rlsatarget=pla-2282373763631&abcId=9375725&merchantid=627648500&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjLGyBhCYARIsAPqTz1_DsNYG3CkEXPa0ZuEtpFoiRGo9wHjgLfJoJm3q775b3yM1xsWxxhwaAhN1EALw_wcB
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8 hours ago, robhearne said:Thank for the link. I now have some on order.
I ran lot of water down the door glass with a hose and I did find one area on the drivers side which was letting in water, so I've re-sealed that. Most of the water is coming in on the passengers side though.
Water has a tendency to travel in the most unusual ways.
Another area to look if not the door membranes or sunroof drains is the windscreen itself. Rot can fester between seal and screen and allow water to flow.
I'd be tempted to get the seats, sound deadening and carpet out and try to find leaks that way also.
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I like the height with the H&Rs, I like some comfort and pleased to report even with a 90mm splitter I can make it over those central speedhumps without touching.
The powerflex rear bushes I do not notice on ride quality but they stiffen up the rear on handling. Difficult to describe but the rear follows the front in a positive way/you feel it rotate. Happy for now at least.
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Clean pass on the MOT.
Still long crank when warm though. And another issue I had thought would "go away" with use is the flywheel. It had the chains/clutch etc last year at stealth but it judders when you engage clutch, mot place reckons flywheel needs work. I'll take it back to Vince, want to swap out subframe and fit uprated ARBs anyway and don't fancy the job myself.
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2 hours ago, robhearne said:The door cards are off at the moment and they look perfect. I'm going to pour some warer down the window just to be sure.
The Corrado badge definately needs attention as it's come away from the body at one side. Is anywhere selling the clipes and grommets? I'd be suprised if it was just this though as quote a lot of water is finding its way into the boot. I plan on getting into the boot myself while it's close and have someone pour water around it.
Here are the clips
Mine were missing on my last corrado after a respray and it is surprising how much collects in the boot without these!
Are you door plastic sheeting membranes good and well sealed with butyl type adhesive? Water gets through otherwise at a surprising rate.
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They are also stuck on with a gasket, however have you checked the membrane behind the door card? This is often the source of water in the pass footwell and the membranes get battered over the years.
Rear boot leak - have the grommets behind the badges been off and not replaced?
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Yeah he cancelled the order in the end... However I swapped out the cam sensor to the one from my previous Corrado and changed the coil pack back to the origina VW item that came with the car and it started ok after a long warm up to fans last night.
Time will tell and needs road use. MOT booked later this week.
I ordered a Beru coil pack from autodoc but they delivered a Stark item. I know it is an unknown brand but was running it. I didn't open the box for months, cheeky buggers changed the invoice online to Stark also. There is no way i'd pick that brand myself.
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Ebay seller is now saying won't post to England... I have pleaded please 🙏.. awaiting a reply otherwise back to making a loom for a later style sensor.
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I have found one in Europe on ebay and taken a 5% discount but had a rogering of 30Euro to have it posted. Given you've both had possible success, it's obsolete and this could be my last chance to get the right part it's worth it if it lasts another 30 years.
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OK I'll give the making a loom a bash and will buy the alternative cam sensor. I will put my used spare one in for now also but can't be sure that part is any good.
Will also put the one way valve in and do the FPR as have a new Bosch one sitting here. This could also be a mixture of things I suppose, couple of weaknesses bringing the system down.
Cam sensor must get pretty beat with heat. I have come across a guide to test with a multimeter and will compare results of both my sensors whislt I await figuring out how to do the loom
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Andrew from AVS spares gave a good tip re the Cam sensor - he said 06A905161A is physically the same and easy to get but has an oval type connector. He had the smart idea to make up a loom to convert from Corrado to the newer bubble type connector.
I'm not sure this is my actual issue but thought to share for anyone else reading and looking for solutions for this part.
I haven't replaced the 167 or the ECU relay yet, hadn't thought about them until today.
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It hasn't on this one, may as well throw one on. Not a lot else to change now. I have the one from my old car here, though still a 30 year old part.
Edit to add it seems the part no 021 907 601A is obsolete everywhere.
VCDS doesn't show any fault codes whether warm or cold also.
Moonlight Blue VR6
in Members Gallery
Posted
Amazing job Chris. Concourse + some more.
Where did you get that banner of the corrado in the background... I have space to fill on the wall and that would be perfect.