Popeye775

In my experience, buying rebuilt ones has always worked out better for me. Saw it easier to buy rebuilt injectors that came with a warranty in case they didn't work than to try to rebuild mine and have the chance of them not working ahaha. Maybe somebody else can point you in the right direction of rebuilding them. Do you have Bentley? Does it explain what all needs to happen in order to rebuild? Also check 7-zap if you haven't already to find OE part numbers if you need for any of the rebuild of the injectors

When I did mine, I did not rebuild. I bought rebuilt injectors instead because I did not have means of testing the injectors once they were rebuilt. It was easier for me to buy certified/tested rebuilt injectors than it was to get a rebuild kit and take to a shop to have flow tested. Your injectors may be ok, but could be that the CoPot is tuned too rich. It is never a bad idea to freshen up the injectors, but I would test fuel pressure/fuel pressure drop to see if the injectors are leaking or needing to be replaced. Make sure the fuel pressure is good and then shut the car off and keep the pressure tester connected. Bentley should outline how long to keep it connected for and how much of a fuel pressure drop there should be. This will help to show you if your injectors are leaking

Anytime. It can be tough to really dial in that CoPot without use of an AFR gauge. At least, from my experience it is because you don't know how your fuel mixture is while you are trying to set it. I have a wideband gauge mounted in mine that I used to fine tune mine.

Be sure to follow the Bentley when setting the CoPot and things of that nature. Only reason I say this is because, I had played with my CoPot at one point (set it to 500ohm because it was in the thousands for whatever reason. I am almost positive one of the previous owners set it that high but I am unsure) and mine did not run very well. My AFR was way off. So just be sure to follow the Bentley when it comes to setting that mixture up. If you don't have one, I recommend getting an AFR gauge as this will make it easier to set the CoPot when adjusting everything. If you need help with it at all, feel free to PM me here or on the Vortex as well (same username on there).

What spark plugs are you running? Are they OEM heat spec? To me, the plugs look a bit fouled - 1, 2, and 4 - as if they are carbon fouled or if your air:fuel mixture is too rich. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong on this though. Also, please remind me, do you have a Bentley manual or a version of it either PDF or printed?

Good job 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 hopefully this solves your issue. Keep us updated when you do timing and adjust the CO pot on how it is running

Smart. This is probably one of the best ways to do it IMO

Hell yea! Keep us updated. Can't wait to see if it works

The way that this is grounded does not look factory to me. To double check if I am accurate or not, I would post to the VW Vortex as well because there are a lot of pretty active VW heads that are on that forum daily that could tell you in more detail if that is factory or not. But, I am 99% positive that is not factory. I will double check my Bentley today and see where all those grounds should be running to. I am almost positive a couple of those should be running to the valve cover as a grounding spot. My valve cover has grounds for the hall sender, the CO Pot, and the coolant temp sensor I believe that are attached to it. All of them are separate wires unlike how yours has been spliced into one.

Something like that or anything similar that could be causing a loose connection. Or any sort of broken wires along that circuit

Ok. To me that sounds like there is a short in the wire somewhere. In the harness going to the hall sender, are there any butt connectors that you can see or feel? If there are, this could possibly be the cause of your short. I have had butt connectors fail on me before and after properly swapping them out, everything ran a whole lot better.

Hi sir, so you checked the voltage at the harness connector for the hall sender?

That is my thought as well. Try to track down a busted wire or connector in there somewhere. Try testing the wiring and while you are testing it, wiggle the wires around a little bit to see if you have a drop in voltage or not. If you do, then you know that you possibly have a short somewhere in the wiring

Apologies if I skipped over this in reading your chart, but did you test the ignition coil itself? Bentley says: .5 to .8 ohms between 1 (-'ve) and 15 (+'ve) for Primary 2400 to 3500 Ohms between terminal 4 and 15 (secondary) That is how you test to make sure you have a good ignition coil. I had a similar issue with mine a while ago, except I believe that I was getting some spark. Just to be safe, double check your timing. Check timing at the flywheel, at the crank to ensure your crank pulley and intermediate shaft are lining up, and check that the distributor is set properly and didn't somehow get out of timing. I had an issue where somehow my gear had jumped teeth on the crank pulley or the intermediate shaft - I am still unsure which one ended up jumping - and when I parked the car, it wouldn't turn back on and I had lost about 30psi of compression in each cylinder. That was the give away that my timing had jumped teeth. But similar symptoms. Car would not start, and would backfire very loud at around 3000rpm. I do agree you should source another distributor in order to see if that is your issue as well. Especially considering you are getting power to the distributor and hall sender. Double and triple check all of your grounds as well just to be sure that nothing is out of spec. Have you had any updates lately on this situation?

Just wanted to add to that post: I checked the resistance of the blue cts against this morning (47 Fahrenheit outside and the car has not been run yet) and it read 6.6k resistance. Not sure if this adds much to the above issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk