peterpp

OK thanks Cressa, now I have looked for the part I see they some with the pipes. I can't find a Valeo / Hella when I searched for it, should I get one from Heritage? Also the car has failed it's MOT due to a split steering rack gater with an advisory for play in the rack inner joints. For a while I have been feeling knocking through the steering wheel under hard braking, so I am thinking it might be a good idea to take the rack out and have it refurbished (the car has done 230K miles with a full engine rebuild at 175K). A search on Google brings up: https://www.lionautomotive.co.uk/product/volkswagen/corrado/vw-corrado-88-95-power-steering-rack (£100 plus £75 Surcharge which is refunded when you send the old unit back to them). Not a lot of detail about what I actually get - does this include the tie rods? Steering Specialists Limited Autoparts are advertising on ebay £300 for a refurbished reck (think this includes the tie rods with new outer ball joints On the face if iy a big difference in price, anyone able to advise / comment / (or have a good rack for sale) Have read the dash removal guide ... fills me with a certain amount of fear, but then the heater control lights have never worked so I can sort that out at the same time...

It seems the same tensioner is fitted to a Ford Galaxy and I managed to get a brand new complete unit for £50, and having fitted it using the recommended flexible pipe, I found the car runs absolutley fine so no blown head gasket/damage to the engine. I have the guide to remove the dashboard , and now it's warmer in the garage, I want to replace the internal pipework and the heater matrix. The connectors that go through the bulkhead are in very poor condition, they sort of crumbled when I took that pipes off, and I had the correct tool to loosen the clips. For quite a while prior to the pipe bursting I had been hearing air in the internal pipes, so maybe that was a cause. Can anyone provide advice on where I can buy the internal pipework, matrix & bulkhead connectors? Or is it a case of just buying the matrix and a length of pipe which I shape myself (how would I do that?) and some copper pipe to go through the bulkhead? Once again really appreciate the help for thoise with prior experience.

I purchased a new belt, bearing, pink coolant, distilled water and 22mm flexible pipe. However now I have removed the unit, it turns out the pulley had melted! Is it possible to buy a new pulley and if so what make should I look out for? Needless to say I would rather fit good quality parts once!

Oh dear, the alternator belt came off, (sudden loss of power stearing, battery light on) when I was less than a mile from home and (I now realise stupidly) tried to limp the car back while keeping a close eye on the temperature guage but the heater matrix exploded with a couple of hundred metres to go. Hoping this was not a symptom of the head gasket failing and presurising the system - I have read that the heater matrix is one of the Corrado's wll known weak points, maybe it was on the way out and got a bit too hot. The oil in the head still looks clean no white bits Just wondering if there is a guide to removing the dash on this site, and any recommendations on where to get a good quality belt and new tensioner?

Thanks very much for the info Keyo!

A couple of other things I could use some advice on. I have purchased 2 pairs of Audi TT Wiper Arms as I believe I need to fit 2 x drivers side arms - what blades should I buy? Also the MOT had an advisory for the bonnet insulation which is starting to flake quite badly. I have read some poor reviews for the kit supplied by heritage, what is the current recommendation?

Thanks for the advice. I took the headlight out and when I removed the lens the reflectors actually looked in good condition. I filled the hole from the inside with clear apoxy glue and it has made a waterproof seal, although it is going yellow quite quickly! Not long after my last post a DG Autotech loom appeared on ebay, and the improvement is amazing even with the standard bulbs! The car passed it's MOT!

MOT due later this month... I have a stone chip on the nearside front headlight which has led to a lot of condensation. I can take the unit out and dry it out to get through the MOT, but to be honest the headlights have always been quite dim, and I have been led to believe this is a common complaint? I have seen posts (now quite old) regarding replacement headlight looms - can anyone advise on a good solution - will this allow more powerful bulbs that make the standard units much better (I want to keep the car as original as possible). It's quite a small hole - could it be repaired with the stuff used for cracked windscreens??

The pedal position sensor just needed re-soldering - I now have a fully functioning ABS system! 😊

Thanks for the advice. I have sourced an ECU from a Mk3 Golf for just a bit over £30 and (having replaced the rear sensors) the ABS warning light goes out after ignition. However a test drive has shown a pedal position sensor fault. I have seen the very helpful posts about the solder joints coming apart in the switch, so I am hoping that will be the issue. Just in case it's worse than that, if anyone has one for sale please let me know!

I now have a working pump, but it seems the the ECU if the footwell is also faulty - it is showing a left rear wheel speed sensor fault, but the sensor signal appears to be correct. I got another ECU from ebay, the left wheel rear sensor fault went away, but it showed a right rear speed sensor fault! I think this proves it is an ECU issue? Just wondering if anyone on the forum might have an ECU for sale? Part Numbers are 1H0 907 379 E / 10.0941-0323.4

Thank you seanl82

OK thanks for the advice.. I can solder, so I'll get them to remove the pump & pedal sensor and I will do it myself.

The car is at a local garage. They have told me they have checked the wiring from the ECU in the passenger foot well, the wheel sensors are OK and the rest of the wiring is good. I'm not sure what the exact error codes are, I'll have to pop over to see them later this week... however they seem sure it's the circuitry under the pump and the best approach would be to remove it and have it tested repaired by someone who knows the Teves system that was fitted to the Corrado. I need to ask if they have checked the pedal sensor on the servo first though...

My cooling issue turned out to be a faulty thermostat. Now it is time to get a new MOT but the ABS is not working. It looks like an issue with pump, can anyone make any recommendations about getting the pump overhauled and the circuitry that sits underneath it tested & repaired?

Hi Cressa, Thanks for the tip, but the fuse is OK. I have now read some of the cooling system thread and had a good look under the bonnet I can see the various temperature senders, connectors, etc so it's time to get the multimeter out & hopefully I won't be posting on here later on to say I'm still totally stumped! I like the look of your corrado restoration btw

Hello Everyone, A long standing school friend of mine has owned a VR6 for many years and I always loved the sound of the engine. Late last year I decided to take the plunge myself and I am now the owner of a VR6 Storm - Mystic Blue. Since there is a Corrado Forum sticker on the wondow, I suspect there are some members of the Forum who might recognise the car? The engine pulls really well but, unsurprisingly, the car has a number of issues that need sorting out and the knowledge on this Forum is going to be a very valuable resource! Although I have done a lot of my own mechanics over the years I currently only have a single garage which is a bit too tight for working on the car... so my first question to the Forum is does anyone know of a garage/mechanic who know the Corrado located in Suffolk or Essex (I live near Ipswich). If not I suppose I will have to make use of the Summer weather to do some jobs outside (at least I have plent of space on the drive !) My second question is regarding the engine started getting quite hot this week. When I checked the coolant level it was a tiny bit below the minimum level, but topping it up has made no difference. The strange thing is when I switch the ignition off the radiator fans start up, but when I switch the ignition on or start the car the fans are no longer running. Wonder if this is a common/known issue? However since it is getting hot even when crusing in top gear at 60 when I assumne the fans should not be needed would I be righ in suspecting the thermostat is not openeing fully? This VR6 is by no means concours but it is in my opinion in too good condition to break so I am determined to fix the mechanical issues first and then sort out the paintwork. I look forward to getting to know everyone Pete