Hocuspocus

Good news - problem sorted! The "lock" wire in the driver's door had shorted, presumably causing the locking pump to try and continuously lock (was burnt out - could smell it!) - fix the corroded wires, chuck in replacement pump from the scrappie and bingo - problem sorted! Now for the heater ... power going into control unit but no power the other side .... given that that direction controls are very stiff, i'll have to take the whole lot out and have a fiddle, but in the meantime, I have bypassed the speed control with a two position toggle - full on or full off - which works fine for the time being!

Kev wrote this in the dim and distant past, but if anyone else has any thoughts ... I had some JBL 6x4s in the rear shelves and they sounded too weedy. So I went from one extreme to the other and fitted some components into the back shelf. 8" Midbass and 1" silk dome tweeters from Maplins. They 'just' fit in the shelf's recess if mounted from underneath. I then made up a black cloth cover to sit in the recess to hide them. Looks OK and sounds fab, much better than most of the 6x9s I've heard recently. The sound is very like Alpine's excellent, but sadly no longer made, 8" 2 way reference speakers. They and the standard OE front speakers are fed by 4 x 50W headunit and the volumen is plenty loud enough, unless you're Beethoven. Well, I’m thinking of doing a similar thing – getting some combination of 8” woofers and matching tweeter/crossover from Maplins and dropping them into a new shelve, either a bought stealth one, or one I make, or maybe into my original, suitably reinforced for stiffness. Which woofer/tweeter/crossover combination did you go for Kev? They might not still sell them, as I recall they used to sell a rather nice Kevlar 6.5” which I can’t see on their website, so they may have shrunk their range.I’ve not seen many examples of use of home audio speakers in a cap – is there any particular reason why they can’t be used – like the resonant frequency begins to coincide with the frequency of road roar .. maybe?! Cheers for any thoughts!

I’m a VR6 – 92 K – later build type. Presume the SLC was the US equivalent of the UK VR6. Given that I have tried replacing the central locking pump, that this unlikely that both relays/switches are buggered, I can only think that its this mysterious fuse 16, wherever the UK equivalent of that US location is …. I think the link into the window control works – press the lock button on the remote and all the windows and roof close. Busy weekend of tinkering I think!! Thanks for all your help!

Thanks mate. Not sure how reliable these CD manuals are, but I found a wiring diagram for the central locking - shows the controller to be inside the pump (which kinda makes sense, because when i took mine to bits, i founds a load of electronics in there .. was only expecting a pump!!) But it does show that fuse 16 (probably the US version - God knows what the UK version will be!) and fuse 52 (I guess this is the one Yash was referring to - above the middle of the fuse box) have a hand in the operations. I attach the diagram in case anyone's interested.

excellent - and this controller is behind the rear door card on the driver's side too, with the relays?

Ahhh - so I WAS being really thick!! OK, I'll have a dig in there to see what I can find - hopefully, I'll find a knackered relay! Do you know which one to look at - no probs if not, I'll check them all while I'm there. Cheers mate - great board by the way - real gold mine of info!

Sorry Kev - don't mean to be thick (but I probably am being really thick) - where this driver's side rear door card then? I've checked fuse 21, but do you know which other fuse might be knackered .... I'm just hoping that it will be something other than the controller!! Cheers mate!

Cheers guys - I'm beginning to suspect the controller - agghhh! Not sure whether there's power going to te pump - I'll check tonight, but I kinda think there isn't because I've tried two pumps now ... The alarm has been working fine with the central locking for ages (apparently). Its just suddenly decided to stop working! I've seen a relay layout for the UK fusebox, but not seen a key (which relay does what ...). Is there a central locking relay - either under the dash, or in the door? The leccy gremlins are having fun - the spoiler works automatically, but not manually on the rocker switch....

Not the fuse above the fusebox (why can't it be a nice simple answer????) Anyone got any other ideas? Help!! Cheers

Thanks Yash - I'll check that tonight - didn't realise there was ANOTHER fuse to look at!! Cheers! Hocus

I have searched the pages for an answer to this question, but haven’t found the answer to this little problem. My central locking is not working: I can lock and unlock the driver’s door, passenger door and boot individually using the key, but they do not work together (from any lock), nor do any of the locks work with the remote full closure alarm (although the windows and sunroof all close) when I press the lock button. Its Clifford 50x, if that makes any difference. Also, I can’t hear the central locking pump working. I’ve bought another pump from the scrappy, and that doesn’t work either. I’ve seen some posts talking about a relay which can go faulty – I haven’t heard a click from the relays, but I haven’t listened very carefully yet. I’ve seen Bentley’s fuse layout, but there’s no mention of central locking. Anyone got any ideas which relay works the central locking – or if its not that, any ideas where to look next????

Gibber - that is exactly what I wanted to hear! The shut lines are very even and parallel, so I suspected they are actually OK. Obviously, unless there is some adjustment, I would be talking rubbish, and there would be a problem ... a careful check of the near wings next ... Thanks for all your help. Hocus

Thanks Henny - that makes sense - I was always wondering why the thermal fuse might go, and guess the answer will be because the fan is knackered and drawing more current than norm ... bang goes thermal resistor, and shortly afterwards, bang goes fan!! Thanks for the tip Henny! Anyone any ideas about the shut line of the bonnet? Cheers, Hocus

Ok, so my new best friends are, the Corrado Forum, Ebay and my local scappy!

Thanks VR6 Pawwwwwr! That's a good point! I'll double check. As for the plate/V5, it probably isn't anything to worry about, but its actually got a new plate on now (I know what the original plate was and its not the same as the one on the car now), but the plate on the car checks out OK with HPI, so must check out with DVLA. Just being cautious I guess! Thanks for the tips! Hocus

Hi folks – I’m in love with the Corrado VR6 and really want to take the plunge. Have test driven a few now, and the one I like best has about 95k on the clock and feels pretty good on the road. No timing rattles, no tappets (or are they auto adjusters?), even type wear, ABS light on at start and off again, roof/spoiler work … all great. BUT, I’ve got a few niggling concerns – what do you reckon: · Shut lines – bonnet seems to sit low, maybe 3-4mm all the way along the bonnet, on both sides. Obviously I’m concerned about a front end ding, but the car is HPI clear and pulls/brakes pretty straight, although she will drift a bit to the left. Is there any adjustment that could have been done wrong? · On the subject of shut lines, the passenger door is fine at the leading edge but about 2-3mm proud along the trailing edge … could be that the lug is off position, but in the context of the above ….. · Heater – did work on 4, now doesn’t work at all. From what I’ve read, sounds like a thermal resistor/control contact. Any thoughts? · Heated seats didn’t feel very hot. Maybe it takes a while for heat to come through but I didn’t really notice it on the 10 min test drive. · V5 – here’s one I should know – he says its gone to DVLA because the previous owner had a private plate. I’ve said I’ll wait till V5 comes back. HPI is clear and bears out what the guy says about private plate, although the car already has a “normal” plate, so something smells fishy about that. · Wipers – they been bent around, but they are awful! Do I have to replace the whole arm with Lupo ones, or just the blades? Thanks for all your help - really appreciate it. This site is a gold mine of info! Hocus