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Steve16v

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Posts posted by Steve16v

  1. Posted

    I have fitted a few too and it deffo isn't needed, just wire the gauge lights into the power supply to the heater control lights and you will be able to dim the gauge lights along with the dash lights

  4. Posted

    Take the passenger seat out as per the guide on the WIKI (5 min job max), and then it is just a matter of removing the sill trims and lifting the carpet enough to get the sound proofing to slide out..... it is going to be in a pretty rotten state and may tear apart.. so just be gentle with it.

  5. Posted

    Just had the heaters on for an hour in the car and there seems to be no lost of coolant or hot air. Any ideas guys

     

    Most likely the foliage cover.... there is a very good guide on how to change the seal in the WIKI.... pretty handy job..... once you have it done you are best off lifting the carpets, taking out the sound proofing and drying out the car and carpets

  10. Posted

    Small problem but it has been niggling at me.

     

    The ambient temp reading on the MFA has been reading -40 Degrees C on the car since I got it. From reading other posts if the sensor is knackered or disconnected the Temp display should be bypassed when cycling through the displays on the MFA. I checked the sensor (I presume it is a thermistor) there on the weekend and its resistance changes when I blow hot air across it... so that would indicate to me that it is working.

     

    Am I looking at a short or a dodgy earth? Has this happened to anyone else?

     

    Cheers :)

  19. Posted

    Well sure once you get to that stage it is just trial and error with the bulbs to see what type gives the best effect... good luck with it anyways.

     

    Just on how the Gauges fit in with the dash... a mate of mine brought a Rado over here recently with the standard centre console in it. When one of my mates got into it it shocked him to remember that there had actually been an ashtray in my car at one stage. When done right I think fitting these gauges looks very OE

  21. Posted

    Yeah I changed the bulb.. when you sand off the filter the backlight is clear... make sure to use a fine sandpaper.. something like 600 grit. You can then change the standard bulb to whatever you want be it normal clear or possibly an LED in your case. all the bulbs are readily available on e-bay, it is the 5mm wedge base that you are after

     

    Ebay LED's

     

    Hope this helps

  22. Posted

    Cheers mate... I didn't get around to a how to guide..... Is it just the set of 3 gauges that you have? If possible find a knackered one and practice on it.

     

     

    This is for the standard Audi 80 gauges with orangle back light illumination.

     

    1. Run a strip of masking tape approximately 1 Inch areound the white back case of the gauge so that one side of the strip is tight in against the black face ring and the other side forms an edge about 5mm from the end of the case. What you effectively have is a ring going around the back of the case 5 or so mil from the connector side.

     

    2. Get a Dremel or similar multi-tool and fir it with a cutting disk. I used a little 0.5mm thick metal serated disk. Basically a scaled down circular saw.

     

    3. Gently cut around the case using the edge of the tape as a guide. The plastic is about 1.5mm thick in most points but the careful not to go too deep as one section is only about 0.5mm deep, this is where the gauge mechanism itself is, it it protected by a metal casing... but I still wouldn't like to be cutting into it

     

    4. Once the plastic is cut gently prise the gauge mechanism and dial holding part of the gauge out from inside the main part of the white casing.

     

    5. You will then need to remove the face from the gauge mechanism. undo the 2 screws, to protect the paint on the screws I put some masking tape on the tip of the flat screwdriver. The face is then free but you won't be able to remove it fully beacuse of the gauge needle.

     

    6. There is no easy way of saying this but you are now at the point of no return. The face and needle will have to be pulled away from the gauge mechanism. I have that the best way of removing the needle is buy holding the face and the light direction plastic (you will know what this is when you open up the gauge) and pulling them away from the mechanism along the axis of the needle. This will spread the force evenly across the needle and avoid the shaft being damaged or bent.

     

    7. It is then just a simple case of sanding off the orange tint on the back of the face and re-assembling. DO NOT used super glue when putting the 2 parts of the case back together!! Use something like Aroldite that won't give off fumes that stick to the moisture in your finger prints. (I did it one and I very quickly learned my lesson)

     

    Hope this helps, let me know if you need any more tips

     

    Please excuse the terrible photo, but you get the idea how mine have turned out.

     

    Greengauges.JPG

  23. Posted

    I have done this... I also changed the needles from Red to white to match in with the needles on my 1990 Corrado

     

    Easy enough job.. just be careful... especially when pulling the needle and face away from the gauge unit... you will need to do this for removing the face so that you can sand the orange tint away. I have some green bulbs and 12V LED's left over that fit the standard lighting loom, PM me if you need some

  24. Posted

    Have you checked if the water level is dropping in the expansion tank?? If you are having to top up the tank freqwntly then it is probably the matrix... or one of the pipes onto it... but if your expansion tank level is not changing then it can't be the matrix

     

    I would suspect that you have had the windscrren replaced and that there is a leak on the left hand side of the screen..... I am just after having to get my screen replaced for the same reason

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