DragonAttack

Not sure how a faulty starter can cause the engine to cut out when it's already running ..?

Anyway, cutting out while accelerating is bad, usually points to ECU relay or ignition switch - worth the look on these items anyway, since they're the cheapest things you might have to replace anyway..

Frankly neither am I but a new motor was fitted and it's going now. Not very well but it's going. :cry:

Leads and plugs all changed pretty recently (within the last year).

One other thing thats started recently is the car starting and immediately cutting out, the revs just drop like a stone. Dunno if that's related.

It's missing like no-ones business and the exhaust is absolutely honking of fuel most markedly after start up. It's idling fairly roughly/noisily.

Also the exhaust (brand new VAG) seems to be getting very hot, it "tings" like hell after any kind of running and the centre consol gets pretty warm too !!

And OBD1

So OBD1 and coil pack considered, and assuming the speed sender sensor (?) was read when the engine was off, what in the name is going on wi my motor?

It feels really bad . . . :(

Worth also noting that if the speed sensor was detected with the engine switched off, you will get that error regardless of the sensor's condition. It's an oversight by Bosch on the OBD1 ECU. OBD2 ECUs ignore stationary cranks though.

Which one would be in an N plate 95 VR mate?

Mine cut out a few times before chucking it completely. Turned out to be the starter motor. Though I imagine the "wiggling key" scenario makes something in the ignition suspect.

It may be. I dunno, the mechanic said this morning to get an electrics guy to give it the once over.

In short, low end revs the car feels like it's going to shake itself to bits, not so much of a problem higher up.

Heavy fuel smell on start up too and burning smell after being run for about half an hour or more.

Mechanic said it's coming up as a "speed sender" fault.

Any information/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers mate, its a 95 VR still with the standard alarm and a toad laserkey immobiliser.

I reckon you may be right about something getting knocked out of place, what with the headlights acting up too.

Nuts.

Girlfriend takes the car out for a spin and then cuts out. Absolutely nothing when the key is turned. :(

Brief recent history, new battery last week, before that a neighbour skelped my passenger side front, taking out the headlamp which had been sorted. Then my headlights kept blowing fuses after approx 10 mins of use.

No problems with starting prior to this at all other than the battery needing replaced (pretty old one in any case).

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

No probs. All seems to be well. No more "mayo" and we cuffed United.

Just need to get the MOT out the way now.

Cheers guys, going to Aberdeen tonight so I should find out a few things good or bad!!

Just topped up the oil in my VR and noticed a small smearing of white residue on the underside of the filler cap.

There's been no obvious symptoms of anything untoward though the motor has been idle for long periods recently and a (fairly) recent coolant leak was sorted by changing the pump and some other bit that had broken.

There appears to be a very light coolant loss over the last 2-3 months also but this is barely noticeable.

Am I in a bit of bother?

Tonight on the M77 near Newton Mearns, black/dark raddo, I was in a green VR.

The guy flashed but I was goosed after playing golf to respond!!

Just kicked the rear end off my mates new CTR and I have to say I thought it was a nice bit of kit. As mentioned before the gear shift is excellent but I found the handling a bit twitchy and I wasn't fond of the brakes (maybe just not used to decent brakes in ma vr6!).

It does however look like a total dog of a car (not pretty at all) and in no way felt quicker than my vr when I thrashed it over the same road, in fact I'd say it was a good bit slower, no doubt due in part to me being more used to my own motor.

Also I guess I know "atypical" CTR owners, not the chavvy, boyracer types at all. (well, occasionally the latter I guess)

VW will charge you £1200 for a new ABS pump without blinking.

Aye, bout 1400 NOT inc vat !!!

Any good sources for said pumps guys?

Also mech said something about ecu+pump needing "coded" at a vag dealer. Is this necessary or can he simply fit the bugger with no need for the messing about?

It's also a good idea to try a different ABS ECU if you have the opportunity

Why is this and what's the damage for one?

Thanks for the info thus far folks. :notworthy:

£1k -ish for new items

Aw nuts. :(

Assuming worst case scenario as above what kind of ball park prices are we talking about for the pump and how much labour is likely? :(

Hello folks, new dude here.

Got ABS issues with my 95 VR6 (the abs light comes on intermittently) and my mech used the vagcom and came back with the rear left outlet valve being jiggered.

He's not too sure what this means (I defo ain't sure!) and suspects it is the pump. I already know the scary nature of abs pumps from browsing here in the past and would appreciate some advice.

Many thanks in advance folks.