ollster

25.5 average (mfa 2), 32-37 ish on the motorways 16-25 round town

cheers mate thats good news as i ended up using 130 for both of them :D

im just changing the front wishbones on my 2l 16v corrado, could someone please confirm for me the tourque wrench setting for the front and rear pivot bolts on the wishbones. For the mk2 16v the front pivot bolt is stated to be 130 nm and and an american document i have states the corrado slc to be 70nm! which doesnt sound right at all...

HELP!!!!

And as for the comment about being built better than a rado... well that makes me laugh!!! The build quality is awful... pillar trim glued to the body work??? nasty!

Fair point but I don’t remember my polo leaking through the door seal/ membranes after heavy rain or the windows becoming unbounded from their regulators, or the heavy doors dropping on their pins etc etc

For the price range the corrado was put together poorly

^^^^^^^^^^ does any one know if this is correct or not?^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Spot on OLLSTER, thats all i needed to hear. :shock: :salute:

Damn nice Polo that looks too IMO.

 

How did you find the maintenance costs and what mods did you have done???

i simply replaced all serviceable parts and had the charger rebuilt and ported along with removing the restrictor form the airbox, and as for maintenance cost a dam site cheaper than my corrado which although being a nice example has cost me a fortune. And although im sure i will get slagged for this the polo is put together a lot better than the corrado

i owned a g40 this one to be precise:

Absolutely awesome car, loads of character and savagely fast (its all about how the power is delivered), to put into perspective, with a pitstops ported charger alone i could sit on the bumper of my mates 210bhp audi s3 in straight lines

Ive now got a 2l 16v corrado and although its comfy, looks nice handles well and stops!! there isnt a day goes by when i wish i hadnt sold my G40!

Right with the car up to tempreture the alternator reads 13.82v at idle with no electrical load on; with nearly full electrical load at idle it reads 12.25v. This reading was taken by connecting the pred probe on the multimeter to the alternator red wire and the black probe to the negative on the battery.

There is pretty much a 10 deg difference on the mfa oil temps with electrical load on such as light, and im not sure how its affecting the fuel or temp gauge

which is the alternator earth, i thought it just had positive and then the blue wire which fed the battery light on the dash?

yeh it sounds earth related to me too, so whats the best way to a) test if its an earth problem and b) rectify it, all of the engine bay earths seems fine so is there another earth behind the instruments?

it doesnt go up loads, but if i sit and switch the lights on and off a few times it will make the fuel guage jump up in steps. I was wondering if it was a faulty voltage reg on the back of the lcoks or an earth?

Putting lots of electrical load on seems to make my fuel and temp guage rise and also give me higher oil temp reading on the MFA. I have checked all the earths that i can find and this problems is the same with the engine off but just the ignition on so im guessing its not the alternator reg problem. Can anyone shed some light on this? by the way the speedo and rev counter are not affected by this

this article should tell you everything you need to know mate Mixture Adjust CIS-e motronic*

Bit of a random post but since having my corrado i have never been happy with the way that the engine performs and as a result i have spent a lot of money replacing parts with little success. its always felt very sluggish and lacking of low down torque.

After learning practically everything about ke-motronic injection i have systematically tested every sensor/component. I have been getting to the end of my tether with it and today i thought i would check the mixture using the bentley info by making a test harness and putting a multi meter in line with the differential pressure regulator and then adjusting the metering flap allen bolt to make the DPR within the specified mA range. When I first fired it up (engine already at operating temp) the multi-meter was running at around 4.5 mA which would mean that it is running far too lean as the book spec is 2.5 (lower the mA the richer) so after trimming it down to an average of 2.5 mA and not expecting much I took it out for a spin and my god what a difference, it jus feels so much smoother and gutsier to drive now. Obviously it had been running too lean all along :D

So to all you 9a users if you are having similar issues be sure to check the mixture!!!

this might help ya mate

My ISV problem thread

cheers for all the help RW1 you ahve been a star, i traced the wire from the ISV as far as teh back of the gearbox before i gave up on that one. And from the fuse box end i could see the thicker gauge blk/wht wire going into g2 pin 4 but it just dissapers into a the loom, so unless someone could confirm where it is spliced i do not fancy unwrapping all of the loom!

For the time being i have spliced off the CSV feed and both the CSV and ISV have power and are working fine. The wire just before the join is not getting hot so i am hoping it will not cause problems, but i would still prefer to find the orignial splice and connect everything up as per factory if anyone could help me locate it

right a bit of progression i have managed to get the isv working by disconnecting the CSV and using the blk/wht power feed from that along with the ecu solid white wire from the existing ISV plug. I know its working as the car fires up better form cold and the revs go all over the place which i am guessing is because the isv is full of crap and hasnt run for a while.

I have tried to find the break in the wire to the ISV but without any joy and i cant find where they are spliced so would it be ok to take a feed off the blk/wht wire to the cold start valve and have this running both the isv and the csv i take it this is all that is dont somewhere up stream?

ok so just checked with the ignition on i get power to the CSV via the black and white wire but nothing from the black and white wire which go to the ISV. The other wire to the ISV has a very small voltage with the ignition on so i am guessing this is a the ecu switching it on but without 12v the isv will not buzz?

So next where is the black and white wire spliced to both the CSV and ISV and where is the ISV earthed as one of these this must be the cause. I also tried testing the black and white wire to the ISV before the connector and there was still nothing with the ignition on... the saga contrinues but i think im getting closer lol

Sorry mate i didnt read your fist post correctly, i mentally discounted everthing below the line in your first post as a sig lol

right fuse 15 checks out is it worth switching the ignition on and putting a multimeter accross fuse 15 slot to make sure there is power there?

So it is doubtfull that it would be a faulty ecu as the isv should get power through the black wire with a white stripe with the ignition on anyway which it is not. I take it the next logical step would be to see if the cold start valve is getting power with the ignition on?

Thanks for this i have something to go on now :)

ok so what other factors could be stopping it from getting power for example if the idle switch wasnt making a circuit would that cause no power or buzzing of the isv with the ignition on. has anybody got wiring diagrams for the 9a ISV system?

yes, it was checked at a bosch dealer and no power at the plug with the ignition on. It should be battery voltage shouldnt it? I take it the 9a's dont have a control box like the kr's?

can someone explain how the ISV system works on a 2l 16v 9a engine. Basically i am getting no power to mine and although the car still runs withgout stalling im 100% sure it would run a hell of a lot bettter from cold with a working ISV. Is it possible that the ECU output for it is fried or is it more lightly to be wiring.

I get no buzzing noise from it at all and it throws up a perminant error on vag com:

04E9 :Idle actuator Op.circ/Ground short

basically if the isv isnt buzzing when the ignition is on it isnt working. I am getting no power to mine and although it still runs fine it struggles a bit from stone cold

i have just had mine sorted by a bosch dealer and it required adjusting the mixture on the metering head. They also found the the isv is dead as in there is no signal from the ecu, so got to look into that one :(

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