madmansi

Quick update; 225/40/16's on a 16x7.5 rim work really well, car is a lot smoother and once they're bedded in should give even more grip! Went for Falken 512's in the end, now need to sort out new wishbone bushes and do a full service on her!

Thanks for the suggestions, had a chat with the tyre place and did a bit more research using the very useful marksink.com link and have decided to try a 225/40/16 -this should work out bang on to the outer diameter of the original 205/50/15's (also v close to 205/45/16) and fill the wheel nicely. Side walls should be less stressed than the existing stretched items so should ride a bit better and have more grip being that little bit wider. Cheers Si

Ahh, should have read the previous post before posting, BUT current tyres are the recomended (for 16's) 205/45's and these are just way too stretched and ruin the handling. How does the wider than standard rim effect things? (mine being 7.5 wide)

Hi all I've had a look at online tyre calculators, but my local tyre garage/fitters recomends a 225/50, but I'm really not sure about this as it sounds too tall. Currently I'm running 205/45's but they are way too stretched and ride really bad, would a 225/45 give any better 'cushion'? Any opinions really appreceiated -getting them fitted 2mrw morn as currents are highly illegal! (Wheels are 16x7.5's) Cheers Si

Cheers for the input guys, Yep have spent many hours looking into the subject on the forum! Like you say most people seem to swear by H&R, but although i want to go lower than standard and sharpen things up a bit I want a bit of comfort aswell -spent a few years driving my 67 bug with a 6 inch drop at the front which was fun and looked awesome but nearly broke my back! -good fun with female passengers tho!(bouncy bouncy!) Maybe i'm just getting old!? From what I've read is that the PI's are slightly more comfortable and go a tiny bit lower?

I’ve decided to take the plung and upgrade my suspension, and have decided to go with everyones favorite: koni top adjustables with either PI or H&R springs. Which will be better though: PI or H&R springs? –I’ve heard good things about the PI springs on VR’s, also that they give a slightly lower drop(?) and are a bit cheaper than H&R’s. My cars a late 93 VR, are there any other parts I should budget for? -especially while its all off. Any help much appreciated, can’t wait! Simon

Blue_Joe that would be great if you could dig it out for me, thanks!. (just to confirm its the pasenger side). Cheers Si

Sorry bout the double post! Here's a pic from inside the car on tilt position showing the rest of the broken part still attached. Forgot to say that part of it in shown in the original posted pic is wegged in the rail. Also attached is the diagram with what i think it is...

Hello all, Hopefully some one can help! I've searched and searched but can't seem to find anything like this; Used my sunroof for the first time this year as it was a nice sunny day (how stupid of me!), Clunk, crack and i thought oh shit its my turn, but it still tilts ok (had to push headliner part back though as it seems to have become unattached) and it does slide back into roof -did'nt let it go all the way though just in case. The front passenger corner sits up about 3mm higher than it did when closed and there is a scratch on the edge. Going through the history file on my car it looks like the typical cables have been done already. On closer inspection tonight I found the following broken part (please see pics), does anyone know if this part can be replaced and/or know the part number? -I have an old ETKA diagram but no part number info. Any help really appreciated! Si

Hello all, Turns out it was the relay in the uprated headlamp wiring loom, got a new one from the local car parts shop for £2.99! Cheers Simon

Seems to be sorted! Looks like it was a slightly corroded connection pin on the MAF plug, cleaned it up with a bit of emery cloth and wd40 and all seems well. Cheers Simon

Hello all This morning on the way to work after driving for 2mins my VR started to stutter, would'nt pick up on down shifting with revs then came to a halt. It then refused to start, had to call the AA out, he managed to get it going again with alot of re-starting and revs. He mentioned that it could be the MAF playing up, thing is it runs fine and idles ok (cleaned ISV a while back). A couple of days ago it did go stuttery after about 2mins from starting but cleared itself, also the other morning it refused to start from cold, -fired up on 3rd attempt. (Dont think it has anything to do with my main beam not working as per a previous post, (still not working) checked the headlight switch and thats not broken, anyway this is the most important issue at the moment!) I'll check the obvious like loose relays, fuses etc anything else? Any help appreciated!! Si

Cheers for the replies, a bit more info; This morning from cold she would'nt fire up straight away -never had this before -on third attempt with a little throttle she started and ran perfectly all the way to work. With regard to the lights; I have no main dipped beam, when pressing the rocker light switch to first position lights come on, in second position they dont get brighter and the light on the switch goes off (I have full un dipped beam when using the stalk). Any ideas?? -dodgy light switch?

Hi all, My misses drove my vr the other night and commented on how the lights were crap (i ignored it as yes they're not brill plus her polo has xenons). This morning on the way to work i had a brief moment when the lights would not work, after switching them on off again they came back. On the way home tonight cruising along the car suddenly became stuttery and nearly stalled, i changed down and after a few seconds it cleared. I got home and had a quick play, when i put the lights on then full beamed them the car nearly stalled! It seems a bit random, but really needs sorting! Any help really appreciated Simon PS; Car has an uprated headlight wiring loom fitted by previous owner a while ago.

A bit more info; Engine idles at about 900 rpm on fire up, once driven and warmed up it drops to about 600 rpm. Is this right? it feels too low. Any suggestions appreciated Si

Hi all Havind had my VR for a couple of months now i've noticed more recently that the idle seems a little rougher than when i first got it. Also sometimes (not very often) when slowing down and putting the clutch in to go into 2nd, say coming up to a junction she cuts out as if the idle is running to low (feels like the engine gets suffocated) -starts up fine straight after. Any ideas what could be causing this? Cheers! Si.

Cheers guys, She's not 100% perfect but pretty good for her age and what i paid for her, will post pics once the new wheels are bolted up! -should turn up his week hopefully. Wales; yer not bad dude, hoping to get to the meet on sat just need to convince the misses!, -what time is everyone meeting up? Have you got another rado now?

Got one at last!! I’ve been searching for a good VR for a while now and much to my misses relief (I was getting a bit obsessed!) I finally found one. It’s a standard 93 in moonlight blue with air-con, previously owned by a fellow rado enthusiast so quite a few usual rado problems have been sorted such as the heater matrix, sunroof , up-rated headlight loom also the engine was professionally rebuilt about 40k ago. I’ve had it for a couple of months now and after sorting a few niggles such as a petrol leak, trimming the perished rubber back on the roof rails (-looks so much better!) some minor and not so minor rust issues, non-working air-con and a leaking water hose! I’m well impressed with it to say the least –especially the noise it makes! First big purchase are some 16” rims coming from Germany which took several weeks of deciding what to go for –something slightly bigger, more modern but still hopefully suit the car –not easy, I almost went for 17” porker rims but the roads down here in cornwall aren’t the smoothest! –will post pics when they arrive. Future plans include; a slight drop in suspension height mainly for looks as it handles very well already -don’t want to upset the balance of handling vs’s comfort –any recommendations? –konis?, probably a Magnex stainless zorst system soon as the original system is not looking brill, leather interior would be nice! –my misses has got leather in her polo!! Anyway hopefully see some of you at any future meets in cornwall, Cheers! Simon

Cheers guys, James I think its part 21 as that has 0121157 in the part number and is at the top/back of engine -goes into bulkhead. Where did you get the info sheet from??

Hi all, I've had my VR6 rado for about a month now (loving it!!) and have been tidying things up on her -will post pics and info v soon now i've got some time to do so! Anyway my problem; Today my engine cooling hose burst causing Mr AA man to come out and do a bodge so i could get home. The hose is the main top one that comes from the cylinder head and goes to the heat exchanger also includes a small diameter section that goes to the throttle body. Most of the part number has rubbed off -all i have is something like 0121157???????. Does anyone know what this number is please so i can get a new one ordered up from VW? Thanks in advance for any help! Simon

Ok, I very very nearly bought this! I double checked the service history with the seller and it reads like the perfect history nothing out of the ordinary, apart from the only mileage reading from the hpi check in 96 not matching. Ok so i thought i'd contact my local VW dealer, no luck as they would only disclose history to the owner, so called a dealer who took over from the original supplier of the car and said that i had bought it but they wanted proof of ownership, i then emailed the manager and said it was my car -couple of days later i get an email with their mileage records -low and behold it looks like it was clocked by at least 60,000 miles in around 96!. The log book looked absolutey normal, i contacted the seller and they seemed genuinely unaware of this and very gutted. So beware do your homework when buying! -will i ever find a good'un?!! (Car was advertised not too far from Bridgewater Somerset).

Hi all Just a quicky; where abouts is the engine number on a VR? Cheers Simon

Thanks for the response guys, going to check the mileage records in the log book. I've heard that these are easy to fake though -ie some how get a blank one or stolen one and forge the stamps and make up mileage to suit (in this case it could have happened years ago). Sounds silly but where on the engine is the engine number? Car is fairly cheap - bit under 3k. Will try and contact VW to see if they have any mileage records.

Hi all Just got back from veiwing a 1994 VR6 and doing a deal on it (pick up next week) so was all happy as it has full service history (99%VW!) in the log book all stamped up with mileage with original sales code sticker and a wedge of vw dealer receipts. Just HPi'ed it they say there are two 'third party' mileage entries; end of 1996 102k and 2003 105k -thats 102,000 in its first 2 years!? and only 3000 miles in 7 years!? HPi bloke said this is suspicious but could have been a data input error!? Clock shows 126,000. Car has had 7 owners, has various small scratches, lots of stone chips on bumper. But no rust, drove perfecty, near perfect interior and mfa seemed to work ok. I'm now completey at a lost what to do! -what else can i do? would VW let me have any mileage info back to its first 2 years etc? Any help appreciated! Si

Hi all, Looking at my first VR6 at the weekend, I asked the seller if there are any oil leaks on the engine and he said; 'just some oil on the underside of the engine' he also said it burns some oil as well. How much oil on bottom of engine is accceptable? Also what about 'burning oil' is this ok for a VR? Car has done 126,000. Any help appreciated! Si