White2505

Hi peeps, I have found what looks like a late heater control unit but not sure. the part number is as follows :- 1HO 819 045 C can anyone confirm if this is the passat/corrado three dial jobbie cheers

Cheers. When it rains it pours! bloody motorbike went pop yesterday also :roll: I'm replacing the matrix anyway whilst I've got the heater assmebly out as it seems daft not to. Will do all the mods at the same time. It will be just like having a heater system by the time I've finished! :clap:

cheers Riley, That's exactly my problem. This is why I've got warm air escaping from the heater box. It's whats causing my dash instruments and vdo gauges and windows to mist up in the cold weather.

Fantastic :clap: I figured I was going to have to do some sort of 'Heath Robinson' type affair to fix it. added to my list of niggles to sort when I've finished this weekends nightshift.

okay so I'm looking at what I think is a busted heater box still in situ in the car. It looks like the ducting that comes from the front of the heater assembly that goes to the centre dash vents has come away from the heater assembly. When I looked closer at it there are 2 bolts, one either side of the ducting that bolt the ducting onto the assembly. It looks like there was some 'masticy' type gunk residue around what I initially thought was the break in the box. With the bolts being there it looks like maybe the ducting is supposed be removeable. Even with the bolts done up tight on both sides the ducting doesn't sit flush with the heater assembly. does someone have a copy of ekta that can paste up the page of the heater assembly? I think it may be that there was a sticky gasket that should be between the two parts which has fallen apart overtime. :shrug: looks like I'm taking the whole assmebly out once I've finished nights this weekend! :gag: unless someone has already had this issue and knows what the solution is?

As I'll have the heater box out I shall replace the cable. Thanks for the info chaps

cheers guys, I got into it this morning only to discover that the central plastic heater box has split. :brickwall: so I'm now pis*y and trying to decide whether to repair the existing box or try and find a good second hand one. either way it's a complete sh*tter of a job and one I wasn't planning on doing. It also explains why the instrument cluster has been steaming up recently as I had hot air floating round behind the cluster aswell as belting out of the vents. Typical corrado ownership. Start trying to sort out a minor niggle to find it's a MUCH bigger job than it should have been. Still I guess I might aswell do the matrix at the same time as the heater box will be out. (couldn't happen in the summer when it's warm and the heater isn't required.) :bad-words: Fortunately I cycle to work so it's not a toal disaster. I was also able to see the wear on the Bowden cable. It looks like turning it through 180 degrees and lubing it up might resolve the issue. It'll be much easier to sort once the heater box is out aswell. just off to the WIKI to find out if I can do the job without taking the entire dash out.

I have the usual heater issue. its an early set of controls. Can the cable be cleaned and lubricated to bring it back to life? I'd rather recycle the existing one if possible and spend the £15 odd quid saved from the stealers some other niggle with the old girl.

I'm currently looking for inspiration as to my next little project. I'm thinking a possible engine project and want to do something interesting on a sensible budget. The car is not strictly a daily driver (got the motorbike for that duty!) but it does do the occasional commutes and longer runs so needs to remain relatively practical and not go down to 15mpg!! So as per title what's your experience of running throttle bodies? what sort of mpg are you seeing now compared to pre-bodies? Are you happy with the outcome? are you using it as a daily driver and if so how practical do you find it?

or the fan speed resistor inside the motor is 'fubar'd' these are known to go eventually and there are usually spares on fleabay for about a fiver

On the g/box end of the engine there are three single connectors. Placed around the outlet pipe. Looking at it, top left is Yellor/Red; bottom left is Green/Red; top right is Blue/White. The single one 'just round the corner on the back' of the engine is Green/Black and fits the sensor sticking out the back just there. (There are two earth wires connected to the top of the block just here as well, one is Brown/White and in the same sleeve as the sensor wire, other is Brown and comes down sleeve from the coil area). The oil cooler has two sensors, front one is Yellow; back one is Blue/Black. There is an unused wire tied back which is Blue/White. HTH

I REALLY like these but I'm on 4x100 carriers. I know I can change to 5x100 with some messing about but does anybody make a convincing replica in 4x100 that would save me the hassle?? cheers Whitey

I can thoroughly recommend dropping the 2.0L ABF bottom end in with your existing kr head. when my 1.8 kr bottom end decided to head out for lunch and not come back this is what I did. found in various VW's (although mine came from a Seat toledo) Its a straight swop and I haven't missed the 1.8 :)))))

Hi Skinnyman, i've been away for a while so only just seen your post. I had similar issues with my 1.8 16v about 12months ago. abf 2.0 bottom end goes straight in. block is about 15mm taller but original early bonnet is fine. it's a tight fit but fine. no cat required. passed mot on emissions easily. no issues in last 12 months with the conversion.

no idea, I bought my replacement sensor from someone on here, stick an add in the wanted section or alternatively head to the stealers fully lubed up!! not sure what its officially called. most people would know what you mean if you say vacuum sensor in the back of the instrument cluster.

instruments come apart real easy. (just a couple of obvious screws). you don't need to remove the speedo at all. pop the temp and petrol guage cluster out (just pulls off the mounting lugs when the lugs are squeezed together). you'll see the vacuum sender in the rear of the cluster casing. once it all goes back together no-one will be any the wiser that you had it apart!

it's straightforward. remove the plastic binacle in front of the instrument cluster, (4 screws, two up into the underside of the dash and 2 behind plastic covers on the bottom front corners) the instrument cluster is held in by 2 screws (approx halfway up on the left and right hand side of the cluster) you'll need to drop the underdash tray out so you can reach behind the cluster to disconnect the electrical cable, speedo cable and vacuum pipe. once you have the cluster out you'll see the vacuum sensor on the back of the cluster. (nfortunately you have to actually take the cluster apart to get at the sensor as it screws into the cluster from inside the housing.

I never got to drive the M6 as it was my bosses :( I was about 19 at the time (so I drove like a numbnutz) and there was NO WAY he was letting me behind the wheel. I just vividly remember being awestruck at the road holding and power.

okay, quickest, in no particular order ........ a single seater at brands, a tweaked lotus elise, a breathed on R5 gt turbo that I once owned and blew up almost weekly, the bmw 'M' 635csi when they first came out, and the latest big volvo estate comlete with blue lights and sirens to assist in 'making progress' :)))) quickest I've owned, tweaked R5 GT turbo, escort Mk 2 RS2000, escort Mk 1 Mexico, oh yeah and my C most interesting, a series 2 land rover soft top that I fitted an XR4i V6 into. it drank like a fish, was slow as chuff, but sounded ace and ALWAYS brought a smile to my face.

thanks, you have a pm

cool, cheers flusted. I've put a wanted on the forum but nobody seems to have a spare they want shot off so it's back to fleabay as I don't want to spend shed loads what with me being a cheapskate :))

thanks carpy, back to the search then!!

does anyone know if the WUR from an audi 80 is the same as the VW 1.8 kr version? cheers

take the housing off under the dash board so you can lie in the footwell and look up behind the steering column. Black rubber pipe should be plugged onto back of instrument binacle. if you start the engine up with the housing off and rev it up a bit you should hear it. Main thing before removing anything is whether the mpg thingy on your mfa is working. if it is it wont be the vacuum pipe.

is your mfa still working? check the vacuum line to back of the dash has'nt fallen off.