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zacon

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About zacon

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    Newbie

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  • Location
    Vestfold, Norway

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  • Occupation
    Production electronics
  1. So no loctite? I suppose it will be okay in that case.
  2. I'd think it would be a problem to have both the supercharger and turbo running at the same time though, you'd need some kind of separation based on engine speed to fit both in a Corrado with a VR6 engine. It's wouldn't be that easy. These set-ups are made so that you would get a more continuous power from the engine over a longer rpm range. If I wanted to boost my engine, well rather if I could afford it, I'd get a turbo, but for reasons unknown to me, it's more common to supercharge the VR6. I've seen both though.
  3. I got the new pulley and bolt today. I changed the oil seal too. Attached a picture of the new pulley next to the old one. Now everything seems to be working as supposed :) The wobble in the pulleys are completely gone too. I'm really happy about that. I'm a little worried off the cut-off that was so damaged though. Also, I didn't use loctite on the bolt. Should I, is it important? We have both red, blue and green loctite at work, but I forgot to bring some. I didn't have a torque wrench that went high enough either, but I got someone to stand at the brakes while I gave it almost all I could. Should I take it apart and put on loctite?
  4. zacon

    037 906 040B

    Yeah, that's the CO-pot and intake air temperature sensor. There's no MAF-sensor on the G60, but a MAP-sensor in the ECU.
  5. zacon

    Oil switch

    That is the high oil pressure switch. The black type which triggers at 1,4 bar has part no. 068 919 081. The gasket ring is part no. N 013 811 5, according to ETKA.
  6. I'm hardly able to hear the fuel pump in mine, although that's a 9A. I'd say it's clearly something wrong if you can hear it making noises while you are driving. Have you changed the fuel filter lately?
  7. Thanks for all your help, it's really appreciated. My mating surface surely doesn't look as bad as the one in the picture you posted. although the cut off is worse. Maybe it will work out if I just wash it good and tighten the bolt really good. I'm a bit worried though, since I had the wobble before. If you think £35 is bad, they wanted 700 kr (£60) for the tensioner! I guess I'll get a second hand one of those. Maybe the old one is fine though.
  8. Oh, I get it now. I thought it was the cut out on the crank that needed to be resurfaced. I'm afraid the mating face isn't smooth though, there's been a wobble in the pulley since I bought the car :( I'll look at it when I get home from work. I ordered a new pulley and bolt from the dealer, the pulley was 400 NOK = £35 .
  9. No, the dual pump system on the early G60s and the newer single in-tank pump systems both give 4 bar. I didn't know whether the 16V system gave more pressure, but if kongo is right then this is probably the reason you're having problems. You should hook up a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and check it.
  10. If you're using the 16V undercar pump and kongo127 is correct, the question would be whether running with almost twice as much fuel pressure would cause your problems or not. I'd guess it does.
  11. Here's a picture of the other side of the pulley. I have to admit I'm not so sure what a mating face is.
  12. I don't really know how the key in a new pulley looks like, but at least the cutoff in the crankshaft looks really far from what it should, don't you think?
  13. Could I just resurface it with a dremel? I don't get the idea really, would I have to shear it down to correspond to exactly one notch on the cambelt, so that the timing wouldn't be wrong? And doing so would not make the whole thing unbalanced? I'd really like to avoid taking the crankshaft out.
  14. This is looking really bad. I took off the crank bolt. It was far too easy to get out by the way. I've attacted a picture of the crankshaft end, the pulley and the bolt. As you can probably see from them, the pulley can be turned freely on the crankshaft. I suppose the only thing that kept it from going round and round all the time was the bolt itself. I suppose I first of all need to get a new pulley and bolt. I found this topic where a guy named Crasher describes what I need to do with the crankshaft: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43032 I wish he were more detailed though. My case seems to be worse than the damage in the picture he posted. What's all the red stuff by the way?
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