zacon

The bolt should be new and lightly oiled.

So no loctite? I suppose it will be okay in that case.

I'd think it would be a problem to have both the supercharger and turbo running at the same time though, you'd need some kind of separation based on engine speed to fit both in a Corrado with a VR6 engine. It's wouldn't be that easy.

These set-ups are made so that you would get a more continuous power from the engine over a longer rpm range.

If I wanted to boost my engine, well rather if I could afford it, I'd get a turbo, but for reasons unknown to me, it's more common to supercharge the VR6. I've seen both though.

I got the new pulley and bolt today. I changed the oil seal too. Attached a picture of the new pulley next to the old one.

Now everything seems to be working as supposed :) The wobble in the pulleys are completely gone too. I'm really happy about that. I'm a little worried off the cut-off that was so damaged though.

Also, I didn't use loctite on the bolt. Should I, is it important? We have both red, blue and green loctite at work, but I forgot to bring some. I didn't have a torque wrench that went high enough either, but I got someone to stand at the brakes while I gave it almost all I could.

Should I take it apart and put on loctite?

Yeah, that's the CO-pot and intake air temperature sensor. There's no MAF-sensor on the G60, but a MAP-sensor in the ECU.

That is the high oil pressure switch.

The black type which triggers at 1,4 bar has part no. 068 919 081.

The gasket ring is part no. N 013 811 5, according to ETKA.

I'm hardly able to hear the fuel pump in mine, although that's a 9A. I'd say it's clearly something wrong if you can hear it making noises while you are driving. Have you changed the fuel filter lately?

Thanks for all your help, it's really appreciated.

My mating surface surely doesn't look as bad as the one in the picture you posted. although the cut off is worse. Maybe it will work out if I just wash it good and tighten the bolt really good. I'm a bit worried though, since I had the wobble before.

If you think £35 is bad, they wanted 700 kr (£60) for the tensioner! I guess I'll get a second hand one of those. Maybe the old one is fine though.

??

Oh, I get it now. I thought it was the cut out on the crank that needed to be resurfaced. I'm afraid the mating face isn't smooth though, there's been a wobble in the pulley since I bought the car :( I'll look at it when I get home from work.

I ordered a new pulley and bolt from the dealer, the pulley was 400 NOK = £35 .

No, the dual pump system on the early G60s and the newer single in-tank pump systems both give 4 bar.

I didn't know whether the 16V system gave more pressure, but if kongo is right then this is probably the reason you're having problems. You should hook up a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and check it.

If you're using the 16V undercar pump and kongo127 is correct, the question would be whether running with almost twice as much fuel pressure would cause your problems or not. I'd guess it does.

Here's a picture of the other side of the pulley. I have to admit I'm not so sure what a mating face is.

I don't really know how the key in a new pulley looks like, but at least the cutoff in the crankshaft looks really far from what it should, don't you think?

Could I just resurface it with a dremel? I don't get the idea really, would I have to shear it down to correspond to exactly one notch on the cambelt, so that the timing wouldn't be wrong? And doing so would not make the whole thing unbalanced?

I'd really like to avoid taking the crankshaft out.

This is looking really bad. I took off the crank bolt. It was far too easy to get out by the way.

I've attacted a picture of the crankshaft end, the pulley and the bolt. As you can probably see from them, the pulley can be turned freely on the crankshaft. I suppose the only thing that kept it from going round and round all the time was the bolt itself.

I suppose I first of all need to get a new pulley and bolt.

I found this topic where a guy named Crasher describes what I need to do with the crankshaft: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43032

I wish he were more detailed though. My case seems to be worse than the damage in the picture he posted.

What's all the red stuff by the way?

I was trying to say that there's a wobble/judder in my crank pulleys. It's only at idle though.

You should specify what engine you're having.

Sorry for my late reply. Yesterday a friend came over, and he brought a plug key that fitted. We took out plug number one and put in a ratchet extension, then turned the crankshaft until the piston was at top. The flywheel mark was now visible! To my surprise, the crankshaft pulley mark was now far from aligned. So was the camshaft pulley, so we took off the belt and adjusted it so that both the camshaft pulley mark and the flywheel mark was aligned.

Then I tried to start the engine, and it fired up just fine! He also brought his timing light, so we adjusted the ignition timing too, which also was way off.

The engine was going really well then, it even ran better on low rpms, probably because we adjusted the ignition timing. I took it for a long drive, and slept over at some friends. No problems, except for a ticking noise coming from the engine bay sometimes.

Today, on my way home, the same symptoms as on the cinema night came. The acceleration was really bad on the highway, and the oil temperature was rising. I fortunately made it all the way home this time. The manifold wasn't quite glowing then, but it surely was much hotter than usual.

I haven't looked at it yet, but I guess I suspect the cambelt has slipped again. How the hell could that have happened? I'm really sure me and my friend tightened it properly.

Could all this be because the tensioner is worn? I've read about people having ticking noises that found out it was all because of the tensioner.

I've also noticed a considerable eccentricity(?) on the crank pulleys. Could that have anything to do with it?

I lined up the camshaft timing mark, took off the cambelt and turned the crankshaft slowly clockwise, and installed the belt again. I couldn't find the inner mark, but I'd be really surprised if it made any difference, as it says in the pdf that both would be good. The pulley marked AUX in the pdf does nothing? I thought that one went to the distributor as it does in the PG, but here the rotor was connected to the camshafts (I should've understood that.)

Still can't find the flywheel marks though.

I then tried starting the engine, but it didn't start. Not at all. I can smell gas in the exhaust stub, and the injectors are spraying. There's no spray pattern though, it's just spraying all the time apparently. Taking off the connectors on the fuel distributor made no difference.

I really wish I had a plug key that fitted now, so I could find out whether I have compression or not.

Is there any chance I've bent any valves? I moved the belt two notches. The weird thing is that the engine did start before I moved the belt, although it ran like shit and wouldn't rev up. I also took a lot of patience to start it. Now there's no way it's gonna start at all.

I'm actually really sure the belt is aligned right now, at least according to the pdf. Well, apart from that I can't find the flywheel marks.

The exhaust manifold doesn't get warm when I try to start the engine. It did before I moved the belt.

Help!

A supercharger/compressor is powered by the drivebelt while a turbocharger is powered by the exhaust pressure.

I think superchargers are nice since since they give a more continuous boost, but turbos are somehow more fun ;)

Alright, thanks. I suppose I'll just line up the crankshaft mark, camshaft mark and the blue arrow to the red arrow, start up and see what happens.

I'll try to find the inside mark and see if it differs from the outside mark.

Good night

on the cam sprocket use the insude mark not the outer one. the inside should be level with the head surface at the front.

Yeah, it says it should align at the cam cover, is there a reason for not using the outer one? I couldn't see the inner mark actually, so I suppose I should either try harder or take of the cam cover.

Should the tiny mark on the distributor body (red arrow) line up with the center of the rotor contact point (blue arrow) ?

If so that's really off too. On the picture I had the crankshaft pulley properly aligned. Well, I don't really know that I guess, since the TDC-mark on the flywheel isn't there.

I actually weren't able to get out the spark plug, so I couldn't use the screwdriver method. Better get a new plug key. I'm kinda struck here without the car working though. (I live deep into the spruce forest)

The first one in the tank is only a tiny primer pump (that tends to break by the way) I don't know why the system is made that way. I have the same set up in my '92 2.0 16V.

That's a really good idea, I'll give it a try. Still not sure about the distributor though.