2 door fun

Whaaaaaaat??? How weird is that...No idea how that has happened. I think that was the first time I had been on in some time.. the site asked me to re-register and then asked me a question.. Oh well I shall revert to previous user details.. Ta muchly for that sir.

Yeah the 60 version will fit very well. I have a Rallye version and its longer on the inlet. Much cutting and grinding and welding around teh front two eye support to get it to fit.

10 years! Wow get that... I reckon you may need your injectors stripping and rebuilding. The pintles can stick and they just won't move free.. Its the regular flow of fuel that keeps em lubricated and free. Def oil change and brake fluid change and prob a coolant change. Also oil can and clean oil and then wd40 and manually turn the engine over many times.. Socket on the lower pulley. The rings may well be stuck and gummed up. Game on I would love to be there when she fires up.. I love my 60.

Ta muchly for the reply's. That will be why the screw is already missing from it. I can already virtually lift of a load of the outer black trim.. I reckon I'll practice removing the glass on the spare set first...Not busting those mirrors now that they are all sprayed up.. Should have done it before but never noticed it. On another note.. I know I aint been on here so much in the last12 months due to the car in bits.. How come it states I am a newbie and I have like no posts?? I have hundreds!

Whilst its titled wing mirrors I'll ask a question. I've had the nugget G60 re-sprayed a month or two back and there is a split in the trim of the drivers wing mirror. The black band part. I have a spare set of mirrors so how do I remove said black band? Ta muchly

Cheers for the link sir.. I'll take some shots of all the ways I have fitted the p filter.. As a matter of something or other. The DDI kit comes with 2 sheets of redness.. Did you use 1 or 2 I ask as the instructions say for a deeper red use both.. I wondered if this affected the background? And yes its only after you do some searching that you find you didn't really need to buy a kit. As you say stanley teh P filter of and Bobs your uncle.. Where did I put that red vinyl??? Muchos

I'm using stock bulbs but I covered over the blue tint strip as it didn't work to well with the yellow at night.. I just used some white vinyl to cover over the blue. The VDO gauges are also using the blue tint but I have split the gauges to remove this blue sheet and just have white lights behind the gauges. I'm in to keeping the look of it all stock with what you might call sympathetic mods.

Here you go.. This is a cut down of the final print template.. You can see the knifing guide in magenta.. I wanted to keep the VDO look of the yellow Porsche gauges but also play with the look of the dash as a whole.

I shall post some shots.. Getting them printed on vinyl and then mat lammed.. The printers then use a cut guide I set up and put the finished item through the knifing machine...Does all the cutting for me. :clap: The black is not as black as I would have liked but the colours and font typeface are based on the VDO Porsche 944 yellow gauges that I have in the car.. Plus a Volvo boost gauge that has been re-skinned to match the Porsche gauges. Dash clocks have yellow needles and the yellow rev has a red needle. The car is a yellow G60 so its all for a reason. Did all the work in Illustrator.. Took a moon to get it all accurate.. Much clock dismantle and scanning and fitting and re-working.. I'll get some shots tonight.

I did toy with that idea.. Its not to hard. You need to dismantle the clocks and then pull the motor mounts.. I think you solder three large pins and then that's it.. Obviously you need to make new gauge skins and so on.. I don't think it looks to clever in the final run.. Just looks wrong when looking at the dash. I made my own skins and have a yellow rev counter and had em printed on light tight vinyl and then mat laminated.. The benefits of being a graphic designer and throwing the artwork on to the back of an exhibition panel job :clap: I'll post some shots when I get it all back together :eek: Car has been off the Rd for 2 years but has just had a full respray and is looking good. Will be sweet for Spring.

I'll tell you what looks better than the red... Leave the original green :tongue: filter in and use a new or turn over the existing polarizing panel..You get an effect that is identical to my Alpine stereo.. Green background and Black numbers. A cassette deck :eek: I might add.. Does have external for the old POD in.. The green does look cool. Worth a thought.. Just need to resolve the background issues with the red and then make up my mind. There is defiantly only 1 way to use the polarizing filter... If you buy the kit from Awesome or DDI before you peel the film from it just place it on the LCD the correct way will show up blacker than the other.. Then peel and stick. Its worth looking at LCD daylight To see the required effort to get these panels to light up in the day time. Above link as in my first post. Scroll to bottom where the 1 watt bulbs are wired in for non headlamp circuit illumination.

Hi all. The Yellow peril (1991 G60) has been running fine until not long ago! Went to start her one Sat morning and clunk :shrug: All was quiet. This has now developed in to a clunk that seems to come from the tank..Ie the pump and relay 167 (pump relay) chattering. The clunk happens on key turn 1 when I go to start there is nothing as I turn the key back the relay begins chattering again. I have been reading on Vortex that it can be an Earth problem? The fellas on Vortex said the Earth fails as the ECU controls the pump. So would we be looking for the main Earth of the Battery as a start point of further in to the car?

Hi all. My vent controls are all screwed up. The blower only works on No4 I guess that is the thermal resistor gone pop. My Saab turbo used to blow em. Anyway the vent controls are all stuffed up. I switch between say dash vents and screen and the vents still blow a bit and only 1 side of the screen is blowing. Atleast it the drivers side. The controls are well stiff and jerky??? Is this a dsh out job and a new heater box? Cheers all

Hi folks. I got the hood open. I looked up and found the spings that hold the bonett pins in place. A long driver is needed. As for the car. I was well knarcked I'm very handy with engines been doing it for years. They had rushed the final stage of the job. ie refitting pipes. No jubilee clips tightened up just pushed on. I trimmed the pipe ends and re-did the lot. Found my new reason for water light poping back on. More kinked pipes so the water was not finding its way back to the res. He knew who I was a friend knows him and had said this guy knows engines. So they must have known about the kinked pipes as soon as they put em on... Like a TV repeair man. Hoping the job will come back maybe. Anyway cheers for the replys. VW want £30 for a new cable !!!!

Hi all. First a big hello to all of you as I'm new here. Been reading posts for the last few weeks. Anyway and helpers out there. I have the car I always wanted My 91 G60. She has been slack of TLC I will be putting that wright. since having her I have replaced the oil pump and much other stuff. Prudent I thought for a car with 150 on the clock. I also head a coolent leak. I had the head skimmed and all the headset replaced at a local VW geezers place. After the work was done I had a fuel leak at the injector rail looked like the return hose. That needs replacing. In the US there was a re-call on this a problem with the rail hose barb being to small in diameter any such re-call over here? Now what ever the status of the re-call I need to fix this fuel leak. My bonnet is stuck. A snapped cable, mechanisam for release moved under near-side arch..If I pull on the cable with pliers pass side pops so does the hook the drivers side is well in place...? I have read many posts on this subject...Any new ideas. Also to top things my coolent light popped on this morning. Only 2 weeks after having the head done. Oh and I have read posts on coolent loss and where is the coolent going...Well the guy at the shop dropped some dye into the expansion chamber. The water turned yellow this means Carbon Monoxide is present. My coolent was going straight down the exhaust!! When he said this I knew. After turning the car off I could here a kettle noise from down below! There were no exterior signs of any leak. Only giveaway was when she got bad she was starting on 3 pots as No1 was washed with water. Anyway thats my hello.