greengti

:lol: yes i have undone the locking nut.... well worth askin though.. Takin off the arm and putting in a vice was my next thought... all this messin about in the garage at night is doin my cold no good at all..... Thanks very much guys i really appreciate your input... i have just had enough.. and to think this all started cos my rubber strut mounts had play so i changed them then the wheel bearings started making noises so i am changing them which is when i noticed that all the rubber on the track rod ends had slit and cracked...... When you start it gets hard to stop....

Do you know how the item 3 attaches to the rack??? it not really clear from the pic?

yes thats what i am talkin about.... I have been putting WD40 on it over the last couple of days with no real luck, heat has been a thought but surly you would requre somthing with a little more heat then a domestic blow torch type thing???? I have been clamping it on the adjustment bit but its that solid its just rounding teh metal and i dont want to nacker the are just to remove the end...

sorry. The hub is off the car, the track rod end is still attached to the track rod which is attached to the car. The track rod end is rusted on to the track rod and i can not shift it. The two parts i am talkin about are not on the diagram you put up. I hope thats clearer.. or at least a little bit..

i mean the track rod end that goes in to the wheel hub and on the end of the track rod arm (if its called that) is solid!!! i am able to move the nut that it tightens up to but not the actual rod end.... I have tried different methods of clamping the track rod arm but this always slips before the track rod end will turn... it is just solid.. I dont think i am just being a girl either as i have a decent amount of experiance of workin on old cars, but this time i am having real trouble... sorry yes the hub is of.

afternoon I have recently been changing my front wheel bearings and track rod ends on both sides of my rado 1.8 16v. The pass side was no real problem just the usual hard but not impossible rusty bolts but when it comes to the track rod end on the drivers side i feal like i have met my match.... this thing just aint moving!! So my question is: Am i doing anything obviously wrong? it is normal handed thread?? isnt it?? Any suggestions on shifting is?? Now usually in this position i would just admit defeat put it back together and take it down the local garage but the track rod end i cant move is damaged so putting it back together is not an option.. Please help....

Thanks for all the info. I have had a look this morning and found that all the play on both sides of the rear could be removed by simply adjusting the existing bearings.... the final result no play, no money spent and minimal effort :) but on the down side the noise is still there :x ... After driving up and down the same piece of road with different passengers listening then jacking the car up and checking each wheel in tern for play i have traced the noise back to the original bearing that i have already changed this week ( the front left wheel). Now i did only use the low quality GSF item but i would think it should last more then 30 mile!!! So what are we thinking??? a unlucky purchase of a ''bad'' bearing?? or possibly a issue with the hub or bit that the disc goes on drive shaft locates in???? Im thinkin it maybe easier to find someone locally who is breakin a rado and just buy the hub bearing a disc carrier bit and change it all over??

Thankyou very much for your help. but how hard are they to ''knock out'' are we talkin hub off and a proper professional press or hub on and some rough yet controlled persuasion by myself?? I am really trying to work out if its a 1 session start and finish job or if its a case of removing the hub, taking it to a garage getting the old one pressed out and the new on pressed in then putting the car back together making it a long enough job for the car to be in bits possibly for over a day?? and of course factoring in the extra cost of having the bearing removed and replace by a ''pro''.

Hello My Corrrado has started making a horrible drowning noise which after doing a search on this forum i have found is probably the rear o/s wheel bearing (after checkin for play etc). Now i am faced with two choices: 1.. Turn up my 'best of S-club 7' CD and pretend its not there. 2.. Save myself the embarrassment of world know 'there aint no party like a S-club party' as i gayly cruse through Northampton and fix it.. After much soul searching i have decided that in order to keep the reputation of Corrado owns every where in tact i should do the decent thing and fix it. So my question is..... How hard are the rear bearings to fix??? i have had experience with the front ones before and know they need the hub off and pressing out, is this the same with the rear or are they alot easier??? I have also read (on this forum) that the bolts should be only done up ''finger tight'' is this true?? Cheers Adam

Hi people, Can anyone tell me of a cheep deliver service I can use to post some wheels??? I am trying to send some over to Ireland (northern)but it is turning out to be easier said then done (even though its still the uk) I would really appreciate any help. Regards Adam

thanks for the help.

is it a particular year passat? or will anyone do?

Its a Corrado 1.8 16v G'reg.

Hello All My Corrado is losing power steering fluid so I called up my friendly local VW dealership and got the price for new pipes, to my amazement these pipes are between £50 and £100+ depending on which pipe is required….. So I got on to GSF who I found do not actually sell them.. Do I have any options (other sellers of these pipes) available to me or is it a case of gritting my teeth walkin in to VW and asking them to be gentle with me??? Any help would be very much appreciated as it needs fixing but I would rather not have to spend that kind of cash.. Cheers Adam

Thanks very much for all the info and the reply. Is there any info anywhere on using the standard 20v engine management with the clocks etc? As I like to keep things as standard as poss (thinking being that VAG spend millions developing their engines and management systems so its best to run it at Mr VAG intended). Cheers