greengti

:lol: yes i have undone the locking nut.... well worth askin though.. Takin off the arm and putting in a vice was my next thought... all this messin about in the garage at night is doin my cold no good at all..... Thanks very much guys i really appreciate your input... i have just had enough.. and to think this all started cos my rubber strut mounts had play so i changed them then the wheel bearings started making noises so i am changing them which is when i noticed that all the rubber on the track rod ends had slit and cracked...... When you start it gets hard to stop....

Do you know how the item 3 attaches to the rack??? it not really clear from the pic?

yes thats what i am talkin about.... I have been putting WD40 on it over the last couple of days with no real luck, heat has been a thought but surly you would requre somthing with a little more heat then a domestic blow torch type thing???? I have been clamping it on the adjustment bit but its that solid its just rounding teh metal and i dont want to nacker the are just to remove the end...

sorry. The hub is off the car, the track rod end is still attached to the track rod which is attached to the car. The track rod end is rusted on to the track rod and i can not shift it. The two parts i am talkin about are not on the diagram you put up. I hope thats clearer.. or at least a little bit..

i mean the track rod end that goes in to the wheel hub and on the end of the track rod arm (if its called that) is solid!!! i am able to move the nut that it tightens up to but not the actual rod end.... I have tried different methods of clamping the track rod arm but this always slips before the track rod end will turn... it is just solid.. I dont think i am just being a girl either as i have a decent amount of experiance of workin on old cars, but this time i am having real trouble... sorry yes the hub is of.

afternoon I have recently been changing my front wheel bearings and track rod ends on both sides of my rado 1.8 16v. The pass side was no real problem just the usual hard but not impossible rusty bolts but when it comes to the track rod end on the drivers side i feal like i have met my match.... this thing just aint moving!! So my question is: Am i doing anything obviously wrong? it is normal handed thread?? isnt it?? Any suggestions on shifting is?? Now usually in this position i would just admit defeat put it back together and take it down the local garage but the track rod end i cant move is damaged so putting it back together is not an option.. Please help....

Thanks for all the info. I have had a look this morning and found that all the play on both sides of the rear could be removed by simply adjusting the existing bearings.... the final result no play, no money spent and minimal effort :) but on the down side the noise is still there :x ... After driving up and down the same piece of road with different passengers listening then jacking the car up and checking each wheel in tern for play i have traced the noise back to the original bearing that i have already changed this week ( the front left wheel). Now i did only use the low quality GSF item but i would think it should last more then 30 mile!!! So what are we thinking??? a unlucky purchase of a ''bad'' bearing?? or possibly a issue with the hub or bit that the disc goes on drive shaft locates in???? Im thinkin it maybe easier to find someone locally who is breakin a rado and just buy the hub bearing a disc carrier bit and change it all over??

Thankyou very much for your help. but how hard are they to ''knock out'' are we talkin hub off and a proper professional press or hub on and some rough yet controlled persuasion by myself?? I am really trying to work out if its a 1 session start and finish job or if its a case of removing the hub, taking it to a garage getting the old one pressed out and the new on pressed in then putting the car back together making it a long enough job for the car to be in bits possibly for over a day?? and of course factoring in the extra cost of having the bearing removed and replace by a ''pro''.

Hello My Corrrado has started making a horrible drowning noise which after doing a search on this forum i have found is probably the rear o/s wheel bearing (after checkin for play etc). Now i am faced with two choices: 1.. Turn up my 'best of S-club 7' CD and pretend its not there. 2.. Save myself the embarrassment of world know 'there aint no party like a S-club party' as i gayly cruse through Northampton and fix it.. After much soul searching i have decided that in order to keep the reputation of Corrado owns every where in tact i should do the decent thing and fix it. So my question is..... How hard are the rear bearings to fix??? i have had experience with the front ones before and know they need the hub off and pressing out, is this the same with the rear or are they alot easier??? I have also read (on this forum) that the bolts should be only done up ''finger tight'' is this true?? Cheers Adam

Hi people, Can anyone tell me of a cheep deliver service I can use to post some wheels??? I am trying to send some over to Ireland (northern)but it is turning out to be easier said then done (even though its still the uk) I would really appreciate any help. Regards Adam

thanks for the help.

is it a particular year passat? or will anyone do?

Its a Corrado 1.8 16v G'reg.

Hello All My Corrado is losing power steering fluid so I called up my friendly local VW dealership and got the price for new pipes, to my amazement these pipes are between £50 and £100+ depending on which pipe is required….. So I got on to GSF who I found do not actually sell them.. Do I have any options (other sellers of these pipes) available to me or is it a case of gritting my teeth walkin in to VW and asking them to be gentle with me??? Any help would be very much appreciated as it needs fixing but I would rather not have to spend that kind of cash.. Cheers Adam

Thanks very much for all the info and the reply. Is there any info anywhere on using the standard 20v engine management with the clocks etc? As I like to keep things as standard as poss (thinking being that VAG spend millions developing their engines and management systems so its best to run it at Mr VAG intended). Cheers

Hello all Let me just start by apologising for asking a question i am sure has been talked to death BUT i have searched for hours on the forum and just cant find the info i am after. I would like to look into doing a 1.8T 20v (I think the engine thats in all the VW's Skodas etc) conversion on my 1.816v but i can find the info i am looking for. In terms of its fitment does it just bold straight in? Does the rad or anything need moving?, is the manifold the correct angle?, does it bold straight on to the 1.8 16v gear box? Whats the best box? Really any good info or links of this topic would be very gratefully recieved Thanks Adam

Hello, don't know if you have brought one yet but if not and you are still looking i may be able to give some good advice (i had 9 205 Gti's before my 14a Nissan 200sx and Corrado). General info on 1.9: the 205 Gti came in three phases: phase 1 Up to 89' F' - Nasty Grey half leather to-tone sets and very nasty early style Grey dash, with red carpets. all had Grey bumpers and body kits with amber front indicators and old style rear lights. Some say that this version was not galvanized and rusts badly under the boot, rear sill corner near the back wheels and bottom of the doors. Phase 1.5 late F - late G?? - Same nasty Grey half leather seats but it has a updated and much nicer dash (still Grey unfortunately). all had Grey body kits with amber front indicators and old style rear lights. Body wise in may ways the 1.5 was the best being galvanized and not suffering the same extent of rust issues as the Phase 1. Phase 2 G' - K I think - They started to get the interior right with black dash, black half leather seats and some had dark carpets. All had nice black plastic bumpers and body kits nice clear front indicator lenses and nice new style rear lights, reverse gear also changed from being next to 1st to below 5th. The main problem with the phase 2 was really bad rust on the inner wings at the front, a key place being under the jack and wheel brace. It is also correct that some of the very very last of the line 1.9 Gti's had CAT's, i however have only ever seen one 205 with a cat and i am a confessed 205 geek, they are that rare that unless your looking you probably wont find one. It is also correct that some not all of the phase 2's had power steering, i had one once and it was rubbish, avoide it if you can. Oh and very very very very few have air con and ABS but i have never seen it. You will probably find a lot of 205 Gti's suffer from Valve stem smoke and very poor idling (usually the airflow meter or blocked hoses). The engines are ok but IMO the VW 1.8 16v is far stronger and more consistently powerful, with the 1.9 Gti engine results may vary from car to car. It is also true that the rear torsion bar can seize up and ion my experience of bashing around B roads they eat through ball joints and suspension arms. If you can its worth trying to find one without a sunroof as they are much sought after and meant to drive better (rigidity) and also try and get a limited edition version, my personal favorite being the phase 1.5 Miami blue with full leather.. I hope this helps. from memory that is accurate but if i have got anything wrong or missed anything i am sorry. Good luck.

Thanks very much for the reply. I have done a lot of work on cars in the past (always 205 Gti’s never a VW before) and I have never had a car with this amount of excessive play in the top mounts, you car visually see the threaded shaft with the nut on it moving backwards and forwards. There is no way this can be factory finish or even pass an MOT. In regards to the wheel alignment is this not just a case of going down Kwik Fit and payin £15 - £20 for the tracking?? As much as I would love to change all the parts suggested there is a long list of other necessities that have to be done, a mortgage and a high maintenance woman which is making this a shoe string affair… :cry: :cry:

Morning I have been having some nasty noises coming from the front of My 1.8 16v Corrado which I though may have been caused by a wheel bearing. After jacking the car up and feeling both the front wheels for play I have found that there is a lot of play it you hold the wheel at the top and bottom and push and pull. This play is NOT however coming from the bearing (hub) area it is actually the top of the shock moving…. Does anyone know what causes this?? Is it the top rubber mount on the shock?? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks Adam

Thanks vey much for the reply.

Hello My 1.8 16v Corrado is blowing from the centre silencer section. Is this section the same on all Corrados, or is it only the same on all pre cat Corrado's (eg G60, 1.8 16v only?) or is it a one off 1.8 16v item? Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks Adam

'The pedal we can sort by retrofitting one from a later VW, such as 97-98 Vento VR6' What is involved with doing the above? What sort of cost is involved?? Thanks for all the responses so far .

Hello I am comparing the breaks to my Nissan 200sx T reg '99..... The main problem I have with the Breaks on my Corrado is that the pedal is to long... Once the massive amount of travel is over with they are not too bad.

Hello I have a Phase 1, 1.8 16v Corrado and the brakes are rubbish... I have been reading the info on this forum and considering that I want to keep the original wheels it looks like the best option is the 288mil set up from a MK3 / 4 golf Gti. Is this correct and is this set-up on all Mk 3 Gti’s? If it is I assume that I have to change the front callipers, will this be a straight swap with the golf parts bolting right on to the Corrado Hub and connecting to the Corrado brake hoses? I am sorry if I am going over old ground but I want to get it right. Many thanks Adam