poundhound

I have a KR valver that doesn't loose revs between gear changes. It drops if I give it a good rev though. If its allowed to sit idle-ing it'll settle down too. I've checked the throttle linkage and it snaps back fine with the cable no sticking at all. Is it a mucky ISV?

Cheers guys, New distributor cap and a lovely blue spark and have double checked for leaks. I had to move it around today so I adjusted the idle screw and it ticks over at 1000rpm on all 4 cylinders now. When I drove it I was lacking stacks of power at low revs (bunny rabbit syndrome?) and it was reluctant to pull smoothly. Once I was up the rev range it seemed OK but I can't just drive around flat out :evil: !!! No reason I should have changed the throttle stop though so it must be something else?

I've swapped my 1.8 kr for another 1.8 kr and everything seems in place. However the thing won't idle. It'll start fine but only on the throttle. Revs great over 3-4k rpm but seems to drop to three cylinders under that. Will this just be the timing? I changed all parts of the old engine which although the head gasket blew was running fine. The new engine was just a block and head. Even a pointer to the right thread would help as I'm sure someone else must have had this problem but I can't find one. any help is appreciated as ever!! :lol:

My spoiler doesn't work. It does however go up and down by hand. Is this normal? I'm presuming that with it being motorised then there would be some sort of resistance? The sunroof works perfectly so could it just be electrical? all of the fuses are OK. It doesn't get stuck half way it doesn't work of the switch and it can be moved easily by hand. Any ideas? thanks.

Thanks David, I'm going to start tomorrow if the wife can get the kids out for the day. and have decided to remove both engine and box. fingers crossed.

The passat was a G-reg B3 so 1.8 KR. Big thanks Supercharged as I reckoned on only removing the bonnet not the front end. Is it easier to remove engine and box as opposed to engine only? I'm still having nightmares about the unfeasibly tight driveshaft splines on my MK1 golf and told myself then I'd never mess with them things again!!!! Looking to get the job done over the weekend. Wishful thinking cos the old golf took 2 days for the driveshafts alone!!!!!

Is there a step by step anywhere to removing a c KR 1.8 16v motor? Mines dead but I have a fully rebuilt KR out of my mams now departed gt passat (B3) I've seen lots of postings regarding uprating engines but not for a direct 16v swap (original is best?) I know I should be swapping for big bhp turbo or vr6 but the engine I have is perfect. Is it best to remove engine and box or seperate from box and remove engine only? I've changed enignes before so am not frightened of the prospect but also know that a little help and advice goes a long way. thanks folks. :)

yep

Bobby, Not sure about the tube nuts (VW Probably) but the removal tool is available from GSF car parts http://www.gsfcarparts.com and the part number is: 98744. I'll be doing mine on saturday.

Cheers Neil, Finally got the info from page 35 on the forum. The description is a tube nut. You can apparently get the right tool from GSF so I'll be searching their website next!!! The one thats on won't budge (sod's law did the 2 back ones which was v.easy, did the nearside front with a couple of taps of the screwdriver!! but got to the final one and it won't play ) So its no corrado till next weekend - :cry: )

Going to change the front springs today (do they often break?) on my 89 16v. Took the 22m top nut off to find a 'sleeve like' retaining nut (loose term) that'll hold the top mount and spring in place. Does anyone have any idea how I get these off? Don't fancy knocking it around with a screwdriver and hammer!!! Do you need a special tool and if so where can I get one on a sunday? Help is as ever appreciated.

should mention that I'm a bit bitter at the moment cos mines being a pain in the Rs. My passat 16v 1.8 KR had 215k before head gasket problem killed it. I did get a replacement engine had its head done then decided to scrap the car. Corrado is more economically viable to continue spending money on so enjoy.

I'm having an overheating nightmare and blasted my 1.8 KR with the Karcher cos I was sick of getting oil all over. Now this may be coincidence but mine is running rough at tickover, is hard to start and backfires plenty. Once started it'll rev cleanly after 2000 but as soon as the revs drop it'll choke itself up and back fire. Neighbours are starting to hate it as much as me. I just asssumed it was part of my heating problem. Bear in mind I'm an amatuer.

I'm trying to think of something nice to say. It'll look nice. I'll cross my fingers for you matey they can't all be bad. Good luck.

Massaged pipes today............hmmmmmmmmmmmmm b@stard thing stilll gets too hot too quick. :( Decided it must be the head gasket. Fk sakes. Grrr its back to the ford. Maybe the wife is right. Got the thing hot enough to boil out the bubbles and the thing started to run lumpy. Switched the engine off and the expansion chamber boiled over. Toppped it back up and started it up again. Wouldn't start straight away then back fired then started. Ran great over 2000 revs but when allowed to idle it started missing. Applied the throttle and more backfiring before it revved smooth again. Head gasket right? :x Someone please tell me no. :wink: The good news is that both top and bottom radiator pipes are now hot. That I'm afraid is as good as it gets. Changed the temp sender unit cos the guage flies up to the top when you turn the key. Still does. Wasn't that then? any ideas other than knackered wiring? :cry: Whats best option for head gasket, change complete engine (I have a KR 1.8 16v in the garage (another fkin head gasket piece of VW Cak) which I know is now spot on (cost £500 to fix its head then scrapped the thing) or is the gasket DIY able? any thoughts are appreciated even the link to the blue oval club via the scrap man.

never tried it!!!!!!!!!!! spent my time looking at the engine!! not doing anything just looking thinking - 'no don't boil'. Doesn't fix itself though. I'll find out tomorrow. Tempted to go and have a look tonight but the neighbours will think I'm a loony. Ford escorts get to you though.

did that twice (it must be late)

Mines a lovely low owner/mileage 1.8 in lhasa that'll never see the road again due to rust. grrr. Whole of the back ends gone soft and its just not worth doing. That'll teach me for not listening to the wife 4 years ago when she said sell it!!! hence the corrado. Gotta have a veedub around, the wife likes the a4 and I got a mk3 escort but want the corrado to run before she insists it goes! can't afford a divorce!!

Mines a lovely low owner/mileage 1.8 in lhasa that'll never see the road again due to rust. grrr. Whole of the back ends gone soft and its just not worth doing. That'll teach me for not listening to the wife 4 years ago when she said sell it!!! hence the corrado. Gotta have a veedub around, the wife likes the a4 and I got a mk3 escort but want the corrado to run before she insists it goes! can't afford a divorce!!

and rust!!

Thanks folks, I'll maybe massage the missus first to get in the good books then stick me head under the bonnet. Been looking through the forum and found that my header bottle is the same as on a vr6 (like a peach coloured ball with a black filler top). Did give the pipes a bit of a squeeze earlier to see if there was a blockage but every time I squeezed, it put water in the expansion chamber. This means no blockage? but maybe hasn't shifted the air? New to corrados so having to learn fast. Never had this problem with my mk1 golf.

I'll start by apologising for not finding enough posts on the subject of overheating 16v's to fix my own. My only excuse is I'm new to the forum so be gentle. You've probably heard this a million times before but any help would be very welcomed. As soon as the car is started the temp guage goes straight to the top of the dial and the red light comes on. The car will then start to warm its self up normally until it becomes hot (very) Its had new water pump and thermostat and still not cured. My expansion tank isn't the normal style with the protruding cap. Its a round one with a black cap that you screw into the chamber. My audi a4 has a similar type of chamber. The top radiator hose gets red hot but the bottom one luke warm. Is it best to change the radiator? could it be the expansion chamber? could it be the expansion chamber cap? I haven't changed the coolant to a 50/50 mix yet as can't get my head around how this would cure it. Oh and there is no mixing of oil and water or water and oil. Does anyone know of a majic cure? please help cos I'm driving my mk3 escort and starting to wonder why I have the corrado!!!!! the wife would sell me let alone my cars so would like to fix things before she calls time on me and my 16v.