DierWolf

SOMEone said this on another forum (any truth to it?) 021 906 258 CH is OBD1 and has an immobilizer, so changing an ECU will require a recode. if so how do i recode? argggg .... does this also apply if i buy a new ECU?

NEED ECU FOR 1993 VW CORRADO VR6 SLC 2.8L (AAA) DISTRIBUTOR PART NO. 021-906-258 CH PICKED UP A 021-906-258-AT BY MISTAKE :( USED I DONT CARE, I NEED IT OR COMPATIBLE FOR MY YEAR / ENGINE. PLEASE IF YOUHAVE REPLY HERE AND ALSO TO [email protected]

GUYS PLEASE HELP!!! 1993 Corrado Vr6 SLC 2.8. had a crash (2 years ago) finally got it back together.... Mechanic said it would not start and it was "the board" in the ECU and he changed it out from another vr6 passat (SO HE SAYS) I DUNNO! ENGINE holds back when you push it @3500-4000 rpm as you switch gears it goes higher rpm in higher gears. i'm thinking whateve he put in is not compatible. Now i ordered a ecu (thinking i had coilpack vr6) and got a 021-906-258 AT ecu ( naturally car doesnt start since its distributor) here is my Delimma... the ECU casing in the car says 021-906-258 CH ... when i look that up i never get anything except on one site it says Golf 2.8 vr6. now my question is.... is that the correct ECU number for my year / engine (AAA) i am asking this because i cant get a straight answer from this A-hole . did he change just the board (if so that means the chipset is changed as well) or the entire module! Really what i want is to just dump the entire ECU and buy another one but I CANT FIND ANY with CH behind it.. only C. What do these letters at the back mean? is there a compatabile ECU? i've changed just about everything, plugs, wires, MAF (new oxygen sensor is coming) only thing i havent done is change the crank sensor. Its very hard to try and diagnose something when in the back of your head you have this thing about him changing the board in the ECU and cant tell you from what it came or even give you back the old one he supposedly took out. Agravated as hell, i can buy new stuff all day and this ECU thing would still be in the back of my head.... its as if it hitting a rev limiter at 3500-4000 rpm in 1st, 2nd gear. some help on the ecu codes would be great as everything on the net is sketchy at best.... whats a compatible ECU number for my year/engine (AAA) vin? is the CH correct one? (only asking as i dot know if he changed entire unit or just the board, cant get straight answer... all i know is i bought a brand new ECU with AT in the back and car doesnt even start so i am guessing thats for the coilpack version.

Well got screwed lol.. I dont have coilpack and got a coilpack ECU LOL.... alright the hunt is on for a Distributor ECU (Car doesnt start with the coilpack version)

Got one off ebay.... Coilpack (which i thought i had all along) today i checked and its distributor!!! ARRGGGG will this work now?? another thing.. took out the radiator fan (belt was loose to the dummy fan) and after re-assembly fan doesnt come on period!! believe i have the wires on the temperature switch thats at the radiator wrong... can someone help me out please on how to wire (its 3 loose wires) Red, Red white and Redblack... think i tried every combo to no avail.. plus i dont know if maybe now that i unplugged the fan harness its not getting good connection (it used to be an issue before with the old fan but that was because the prongs on the fan itself were rusted away this is a brand new fan and was working fine before i took the fan shroud out) how can i 1. test the fan 2. bypass that damn switching crap (maybe have it running at all times)

2 years back i had a front end crash... and thanks to the guys at TheDubNutz its now back together after 2 years. It would not start mechanic said it was the board inthe ECU and he got it started and running with a board from a 2.0 v6 Passat? if i rev the engine at 3500rpm it seems as if it goes into rev limiter sort of thing (this is in neutral) while driving if i gun it it holds back... He CLAIM!! the board is the same board and even the numbers match but i doubt this very very highly and i'm thinking this is the reason. I've cleaned the MAF, Changed Fuel filter, Changed Plugs and Wires the only thing i havent checked yet is Arching at the coilpack, i'll do that in about an hour when it gets dark. Really want her moving again... ps as i drive if i dont gun it and go thru the gears and slowly give gas it will with no problem go over 3500 rpm, but if i want to take off fast like i used to burning tires in 1st 2nd and 3rd that dont work no more :( ps its a 1993 Corrado Vr6 SLC. Mark From the Caribbean. think i better start lookign for a new ECU on ebay.

Good JOb. Let us know how it holds up though, do they have this for the tan leather??? if so post link.

BUMP! ANYONE?

Need quick response, anyone know the diameter of this pipe??? have to work tonight and no Trans :(

OK thanks for the tips, as for the radiator its brand new along with its hoses.

Very nice, i would be more interested though to find out if that level indicator tube will hold up under the pressure. Other than that looks very clean

WEll being a car buff and working on may engines (American cars) sounds like Valve tap and really bad too... Did you do timing lately? If a tensioner is week it can also jump a tooth and create the same situation... If i were you i would have that checked immediately. doesnt matter that the chain tentioner is on the other end, point is its a valve tap and that could only mean off timing causing the valve tap.

Ok Mates, Got home (Whew rough day) got out my 8mpx camera and went downstairs and stuffed it an my old carcus of a arm down near the drip and shot this picture :) Its the hose going it what looks like the oil filter? i dunno just got my car not to long agos so dont know much about it :) Anyways you can see the rip, im hoping i can just loosen cut and pull the excess to restall after the rip, if not i'll need to go out and buy a length at the same diameter.

Will this work??? wrong year but hey even if the connector is different i can work around that Clicky

OK, got to thinking and i remember seeing the 3 sensors in a row next to eachother, no the leak is not from there, its further to the left of those, i read something about a hole going to a water block might have gone bad ?? Guess i just have to get a flashlight and try to crawl under there to check, i have a kit on and its not like i can just scoot under there to check anymore LOL.