snattrass

Just removed my rear speakers and left the speaker grills sitting in for cosmetics...can then just pop them off and get the pliers or adjustable on the top bit... good tip... thanks.. anyone with a key the wouldnt mind me having pm me - that would make life a bit easier.. thanks guys

Cheers guys thats helpful... Mine don't have that knob... does it really make all that much difference - there's only about 3 turns? Does the ride firmness/softness change so that it's noticeably softer?

I know it seems really daft but do I just turn the pins at the top of the mounting threads bolt with an adjustable or something? Is it clockwise for more firmness or clockwise for more softness?

Hi, Does anyone have a diagram / instructions for replacing the rear passenger side engine / gear box mounting? Thanks. Simon

Does anyone know if my original Corrado VR6 93 K plate coil springs fit a golf vr6 1996 N plate?/ many thanks, Simon

Options, options options!!! Thanks will check out that link CheeseWire when i get a spare second. The main thing is trying to work out whether it's more likely to be top end or bottom end work. Top end is Ok but bottom end i think u might as well buy a decent second hand engine that is in better shape. I will check with my garage about compression test results. He did say the sparks were black and that it is consuming oil - is this bottom / top end indicative and are there any pointers that can help me to know whether it's worth doing the top end on the basis that the bottom end is more than likely ok?

This is exactly what I mean about the VR being the less resilient of the rado blocks!!! viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72664

Thanks I will check those tests. To be honest it only seems to do it when it starts first thing in the morning after sitting there all night. If I start it up again even say 1/2 an hour after tootling round town it wont do it again. Spoke to my mechanic and he said it could be VSOS's but he said it could also be bottom end stuff too. He said to try to put Wynns Seal Conditioner in with the oil so I think I will try that for starters anyway. Looked on ebay and have seen this Wynns stuff but also FORTE SEAL CONDITIONER - anyone any experience about which if any are any good?

Yes a mechanic mentioned valve stem oil seals and if it could be not so difficult i would be prepared to do the work myself. Just wonder of there's a way of knowing whether it's that or something more serious - or is it one of those suck it and see - fork out till ur destitute - chasing ur tail problems!?

Yes just when I start it up and pull off it lets out a little smoke. Afer the first pull away out of the drive there is no longer any but i know it uses a fair bit of oil although i couldnt say how much. What are the implications and costs - worst, best case most likely scenarios? Advice please. Cheers, Simon

How come if the 2 litre 16valver is essentially just a bored out 1.8 16valver it is slower to 60 if my memory serves me right?

So what is the most cost effective way of boosting VR horses (since we're going down that route)?

Seriously though, I know nothing about these matters compared with you guys. I'm just learning after owning a 16v for nearly 10 years and now a VR. As a person not employed due to my ME/CFS illness, I have limited funds but also at the same time insist on, at least, enjoying my motoring and of course taking a pride in my rado. So in this situation I'm afraid it's just a case of trying to walk the tight rope of spending enough money on keeping it upto scratch and enjoying it but not having to go over the top expensewise on a limited budget! I appreciate it all comes down to the specific car but this is where the other models seem potentially to have a more limited risk of outlay than the VR.

Now now dont be silly billy! Tell me your not seriously suggesting a corrado is beyond consideration for anyone who has such unrealistically elevated expectations so much so that they are "worried about having a car that'll run day in day out "! :) There's a world of difference between that extreme and paying 2k or more for a vr and then wondering whether u might have to pay some 4 figure amount, i dont know - maybe the purchase price or more again, to recondition a oil hungry unit!

It just seems that when weighing up which of the models to buy, purely from a cost of ownership point of view, there would appear to be a greater risk, generally speaking, because of the more vulnerable engine, of incurring higher costs, more frequently, with the VR6 than would be the case with the other Corrado models!

VR6 seems to be a relatively weak and not robust engine. 1.8 16v engine seems a stronger unit - more resilient. Not sure about the 2 litre versions except that ive read that the 8v is the most reliable engine. Which is the better engine for performance, resilience and longevity between the 16v 1.8 and 2 litre? Is the 2 litre 5 cylinder that used to be in the Santana? Of course i fully realise that it comes down to individual cars but i'm talking generally here. Just seems to be alot more talk of rebuilds top and bottom etc on VR's than KR's thats all! Cheers. Si

What have u had done monkey?

Looks like those ebay ones are the same as those vwspeed ones - i.e. Lupo Aeros as opposed to the TT Aeros which are an extra 20 sheets! Decision time!!!

These ( http://www.vwspeed.co.uk/volkswagen/vw- ... 18-18.html ) are about 80GBP compared to 100GBP my local Audi dealership quoted me for the 2 TT drivers side arms and blades. The parts man at Audi said the TT ones (recommended on another post) they are actually Aero wipers anyway for the TT!!! Any difference anyone know? Of course one of the TT ones has to be bent to fit the passenger side slightly. Seems like the same but different kinda thing!!! I wonder if these VW Speed wipers are more Lupo Aero's?!!! :scratch:

Thanks cheesewire i'll bear that in mind. Is it actually a problem if the fan is kicking in too early as long as it doesn't come on when i'm driving along - it usually just seems to come on when i stop.

Hmm interesting thoughts. I've broken 2 thermometers but from taking readings of the water temperature in the radiator expansion tank when the fan cuts in it looks like the 80-85c reading on the car's water temperature display is about correct. Doesn't seem to be any loose wires or anything around the yellow temp sender in the thermostat housing that I can spot. Will check again later. If there were shorts surely the fan would switch on and off at random rather than come on consistently at this lower 80ish degrees? I know it has had a head gasget replaced by a PO at some point in it's life but not sure whether it had an after market low temp (80deg) fan switch fitted. Didn't even know such a thing existed.

If it was indicating water pump (or the dreaded Head Gasget) then I assume the water temperature would be getting pretty hot pretty quick esp round town etc?

Just after taking short drives round town at about 16C temp first thing in the morning and when I get home the aux fan comes on seemingly at the drop of a hat. I checked the water temp and it was between 80 to 85C. Is this correct - just wondering whether I am seeing the first signs of something more serious or nothing to worry about? Kind regards, Simon PS Yes VR6 model

Voltage was the same both sides (thankfully)! Purchased 2 Halfords Zenon 90% brightness improvement and both sides are the same brightness now and nice and bright too! Thank you for help everyone. Si

Pass me the "Dunce Hat"! How stupid of me! Of course dr_mat u r so right - 2*60W plus 2*55W works out at just over 19A!!!! I orignally intended to use a 4 relay design with 4*15A fuses but then decided to just use 2 30A rated relays, one for main and one for dip but in my haste forgot to work out the new fuse ratings. Using 4 relays, 4*15A fuses is all that is needed, but of course, using 2 relays, as you say, the current comes out at just under the 20A fuse for the main beam and for dip at just under 10A (2*55W/12V = 9.16 amps)!! I will now also try a 10A for the dip instead of the 15A I currently have. If I upgraded main beam to 100W it looks like I would need to go to a 30A fuse (2*100W plus 2*55W /12). Can u recommend a suitable legal wattage / decent brand bulb to go with my new loom? Are these blue tint bulbs any good or more for show? Off to take voltage readings to see if there is any power drop on the drivers side to account for the brighter passenger side dip! Cheers dr_mat, S