snattrass

If a high mileage (170k +) VR6 car (or any rado variant for that matter) with a good service history has not had the timing belt replaced or head gasket done or engine reconditioned is that a good thing or not? The reason I ask is because I'm looking at a VR6 that has a good SH with 170K but no evidence of timing belt being changed. Surely, that kind of work is recommended at say 60k or something? On the one hand it feels like there's some reassurance that if these things have been done there's new components in there that are gonna last longer with generally speaking better longer lasting engine performance with less chance of having to shell out to have that work done in the near future. On the other hand, I'm wondering why certain high mileage engines have had to have this work done and others have not - is this a reflection of how well the engine / car has been treated and driven? I mean if the high mileage engine has not been thrashed and generally treated with regular care and attention with higher quality oil etc does that mean that engine wear and therefore engine overhaul/work is less likely ? Or would it not make any difference - is it just as possible that a high mileage car cautiously driven by a little old lady for all of it's life with no TLC spared is just as likely to need this kind of work done at sometime? Cheers, SN

Why the speedo Steve, sorry I don't follow that?

Spoke to the Phirm and they said I would need the following from the LHD: 1. Pedals 2. Gearstick 3. Cables (can't quite understand why cables should be handed but maybe it's the orientation of the end connections on the cables or something) 4. Clutch Master Cylinder (but not clutch) He reckoned about £800 +VAT for the labour which makes me think it could be quite expensive over all unless I suppose I was able to get a more or less complete LHD gearbox from the continent although I'm not sure how easy / difficult that would be? Any comments appreciated. Cheers, Simon.

Hi, There's no shortage of excellent advice and guidance on the forum about converting an auto corrado to a manual, but what about on a LHD model? Would that make it any difference? I suppose the pedals would be the same but on the other side (of course) but what else would being LHD effect? Would RHD box and transmission spares be suitable just as if it was a RHD auto to manual conversion? Many thanks, Simon.

Thanks Geoff..That's helpful! Appreciated! Simon

Hi, From what I've read on my Mitchell repair manual it says on autos "when starter does not crank engine check park/neutral switch". This is all new to me but it says: "Neutral safety switch is located in shift console. Remove console cover. Adjust switch so that engine starts in Park and Neutral positions only." Can anyone explain what this does / means? Is it easy or not to replace? Has anyone had one go? Cheers, S

To cover as many possible causes as I can I'm thinking about the following parts to take in my non starter toolbox. Please comment on my thinking and questions. Battery - Or one of them portable battery chargers / boosters - if there's voltage at the starter motor but that voltage is lower than it should be then that must mean the battery? Starter motor - If there is voltage that should be at the starter motor then it must be the starter motor? - Do I need an auto specific starter motor or will a starter from a manual VR6 be ok? What about the Golf VR equivalent - would that fit? Ignition switch - I understand that I can eliminate a dodgy ignition switch because if it is dodgy then it will also not allow the fuel pump to prime up and hiss as the fuel pump is on the same circuit - is that right? - I'm thinking of taking a main dealer one and taking it back if I don't need it. Ignition relay and ignition fuse - If turning the igntion switch activates the fuel pump but there's no voltage at the starter motor does that mean the ignition relay or ignition fuse is broken? If there's no click when the ignition is turned then it must be the relay. - Again from main dealer. ECU ??? - Are there any other things things that a dodgy ECU would effect that I could check? - Does the ECU also effect the fuel pump etc - Where's the best place to get this? Is it auto specific? Auto transmission box parking / neutral safety switch - From what I've read on my Mitchell repair manual it says on autos "when starter does not crank engine check park/neutral switch". This is all new to me but it says: "Neutral safety switch is located in shift console. Remove console cover. Adjust switch so that engine starts in Park and Neutral positions only." Can anyone explain what this does / means? Starter motor earth wire? - Will any old scrappy earth wire do? Any other wires I need? Tools! Anything else I've missed? Thank you very much. Simon.

The car is in Poole. I'm thinking of spending the winter in Spain and thought it could be a good, cheap, (not to mention low mileage) left pegger to take over with me! Thanks guys very much indeed for your helpfulness! (It a nightmare being stranded up here in Carlisle!) Simon.

Hi, The owner of non runner VR situated some 300 miles away that I'm thinking of buying has told me that he assumes that the starter motor is broken, and because I live so far away from the car when i go to buy the car I would like to go, informed and equiped, to maximise my chances of fixing the problem there and then without having to transport it to a garage (the transmission is auto). The owner has told me that over the last year, the car occasionally did only start on the second attempt, despite powering up. The car was last started in early summer. What I would like to know is based on the above, albeit scanty, information (that I've thus far been able to glean) where in the starting system is the source of the problem most likely to be? I've read through the starting problem posts and am aware that, in addition to the starter motor - the starter relay, the starter fuse and the ignition starter switch as well as a frayed starter motor earth strap can all be potential causes of a non starter problem. Is there anything else that I've missed? When I go I intend to go with a new starter motor, starter switch and starter fuse and relay and a multimeter and maybe a spare battery. If I don't need them I'll take them back. Do you think I need anything else? Maybe a trolley jack to keep the engine up if I need to replace the starter motor? What size spanners / sockets would I need to replace the starter motor? I was thinking the first thing I would do is put the voltmeter across the starter motor supply points to ensure that it gets 12 volts when the ignition switch is turned. If the starter motor does get 12 volts then I need to either replace it or try to encourage by hitting it with a hammer. If it doesn't get 12 volts when the igntion switch is turned I need to trace the voltage back to either the igntion switch, relay or fuse - is that how you would do it? Is there anything else I need to check? What's this ECU business I read about? Do I need to take one of those aswell? Have I missed anything else out? If I ask the owner whether or not the heater blower works when the ignition switch is turned on does this rule out the igntion starter switch and point to the fuse / relay (assuming there's no voltage at the starter motor)? Sorry about the length = I hope you can help me to fix it and get it started in situ - I'm a learning novice as you can see! Many thanks Simon

I realise the majority of you have had troublesome experiences with your sunroofs but I'm thinking about a buying rado without a sunroof and having enjoyed using the sunroof on my previous Rado am wondering how involved it would be to convert it to a standard factory fitted sunroof model. I like to use it more for the tilt than the slide but really don't like these after market glass efforts which to me look tacky. Would I have to replace the whole of the roof panel complete with factory fitted sunroof - that seems to me to be the most straight forward way or could I cut the roof panel to allow the sunroof to be dropped in, which sounds unfeasible? Maybe it's more hassle than it's worth! Thanks, Si

So could it be of some value to someone with a Mk 2 matrix say on ebay or anything or not really? It is brand new.

Thanks Golie. The main thing is to bring down the "floating round in orbit" look that the VR has and put 17 inchers on to make it at least look decent. After that it's things like ss exhaust, uprate headlights, and maybe in time improve the handling. Cheers.

I think one of them is to do with the cooling pipes leading into the heater matrix from the engine bay side. I was told i needed it then I was told I didn't need it! Not sure about the metal object, it could be related. They will be for a 16valver if that's any help. Secondly, are they worth anything to anybody? Cheers, Simon. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfPicture 007.jpg[/attachment:3f45b]2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfPicture 008.jpg[/attachment:3f45b]Picture 009.jpg[/attachment:3f45b]

I've just sold my 16valver after nearly 10 years of ownership! What a wrench. Right now I'm limited in my budget and am considering buying a VR6. What would the cost of lowering a standard height VR6 doing it the most economical way with pre-owned parts whever feasible and putting some used 17 inch alloys on (i really like the TT ones)? Would it be better just to pay extra and look for one that's already been done? How much extra should I expect to pay for an uprated version (I know it's rather subjective but you get the gist)? Many thanks, Simon.

Hi, My 16v 1800 needs a replacement middle box (the suitcase one) to pass it's MOT. Will a 16v Golf or 16v Jetta provide the same part that I can use - I just want to get it through the test as economically as possible. It could also do with all four boxes beng replaced as they all look like they've not got much time left but the important one just to get through the test is the suitcase one. If this box or any of the equivelent Golf's exhaust would fit then I'm much more likely to get a decent salvage one rather than having to shell out for the corrado one(s) when I'm not at this time able to afford it. Any diagrams that could show the two and compare the Golf with the Rado would help but any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks, Simon.

Thanks guys. No air con so I'll just get down to the scrappy and get a golf one. Appreciated. Simon.

Hi, What, if any, kinds of golf power steering pulleys will fit my 16v 1800 rado? Also, can I drive the car with the PS pulley removed so that I can compare the pulley at the scrappy's or does removing the PS pulley make the car undriveable? My PS pulley's buckled! I take it removing the pulley is just a case of undoing the 4 allen key bolts. Thanks, Simon.

I'll ask my man at the garage I've been using for the last ages years. I suspect he'll say one second hand engines as good as another. He's not a fan of used parts. I am a fan where prudent only as a result of my financial neediness.

Plus how come I can get a HG done for just over £200? The garage told me £500! And others seem to say similar... Thanks.

Yes my engine, which has been in the car for about 5 years now, has been krypton tuned and I'm sure properly set up probably a few times now over the years. The place I take it to here in Carlisle has a rolling road and is well know for being the best around for fine tuning. It's just ever since I've had it, it's never been as sweet as the one I had to replace and I thought now could be an ideal opportunity to address that and get a FSH one or a decent one anyway. I mean you can tell when you rev the engine up how sweet it is and whether or not it's worn and this one revs harsher and feels under more protest when you rev it than the previous one the car had. Not only that but the exhaust fumes are quite noxious, I mean more than normal you know. I feel it's more than that. Doesn't that indicate worn valve seals or something (as you can tell I don't know much about these things)! Thanks.

Sorry see below! Thanks.

Well I'm hoping that by checking out the car and the owner and documentary evidence of the cars mileage that I can get an idea of the mileage and condition of the engine from the donor car. For example one of the cars has full service history. That's just it - I don't know how many miles my engine had on it when I got it. It was delivered from a breakers so all I was told was that it came from a 89/90 Golf. I just know it's no where near as sweet as the one I unfortunately had to replace. Also as a broad generalisation I think Golfs are probably more likely to be horsed than Jettas, although at the end of the day that obviously comes down to the individual car. What do we think the labour cost of replacing the engine would be?

Hi, I think my heads starting to go (so to speak)! I've had the water pump and the expansion cap replaced and it's still loosing water. The head gasket emissions test on the expansion test registered 15 which I was informed is about borderline. It hasn't been overheating at all and all the hoses have been checked OK. The engine now in it is not the original and has never been as sweet and free running as the original so rather than tackle the head gasket I thought I would take the opportunity to source another engine from a donor car. I've seen a couple of 16v Jettas on ebay which could provide me with the replacement engine one of which comes on a car with FSH. It seems prudent to me to solve the head problem by fitting a better condition / less worn engine in one foul swoop. Is this the case or am I missing something? If I can get the car for £100 or so it seems like it could be cheaper too than getting head done which I understand costs about £500? Is this correct? The cars I'm thinking about are: Jetta 1: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... &rd=1&rd=1 Jetta 2: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... &rd=1&rd=1 Any thoughts welcome. Thank you, Simon.