PRANA666

I would go for a new alarm but my car lives under a cover in my garage for 11months of the year. Had her for just over 7years and no electrical problems at all (fingers crossed)

Thanks Mike. To be honest I only thought to enquire as the alarm is already installed. I have never had the need to use it. The car is garaged every night and only gets to do about 300-400 miles a year so probably just leave it as is. I have half a mind to sell the car as I said earlier she has covered about 2,800 miles in 7years. Part of me wants to keep her though. Totally unmolested completely standard, defo a true classic car of the future.

No idea what the fob looks like. Never had one.

Hi guys, As it says above I need some assitance to identify my alarm and to see if I can get a fob or two for it. After doing some research on the forum it seems to me that I have a scorpion alarm, please help me confirm. Do you think it is worth contacting them to see how much a fob would cost? Is there any other way of getting a fob for my alarm ? I am not interested in fitting an alternative alarm as I have had the car 7 years and not even covered 3000miles. She lives in my garage and gets a month or two outting a year. The black box in engine bay has following writing 998 VAG MPT 1340 Thanks

Hi guys, I have the standard sunroof issues. It tilts slightly, but does not move backwards at all. I have read some of the solutions but honestly I can not actually get my head around them. Mostly I dont really understand how I can fix it if I can not access the mechanism. If there is anyone in Northampton that wouldnt mind passing by ( no road tax at the minute ) and explaining what I need to do, I would be eternally greatful ;) Thanks

Sorted, spoke to a friend who said I can borrow his trade plates and give her a run out. I have no intention of using the car, I have a daily drive A4 tdi (700 miles to a tank), 200sx (100 miles to a tank) and also a toyota celica. The car was bought as an investment which I'm sure I already stated. I think she has had 2/3 previous owners, no modifications so basically how she came out of the factory. Got a full service history pretty much from when she was born, only thing which there is no history for is the charger, so had the rebuilt to standard by G-werks. Body work except drivers door is mint. I have replaced the parts which I thought would give the car a clean bill of health such as water pump, cam belt etc. Give it 5-10 years and I dont think there will be many of these g60's available. I do take on board she needs to be driven every couple of months though, will defo pen that into my diary. Thanks for all the advice guys fingers crossed.

Thanks all, I really do hope a good run is all she needs. I'm in a bit of a catch 22 though. As she was bought as an investment the MOT or Road Tax or Insurance ran out a long time ago. I have probably done less than 300miles in the 3/4 years I've owned the car. Short of jacking the front end up and running it (which is a pretty reckless idea) I dont know what to do?

Hi all, thought I would put a little update on here and also to maybe seek some more advice. So the cold has kinda finally left us, decided to put all the pipes back on yesterday and fire her up. Alls seemed good she started first time, no real unusual noises either which was a bonus, no water leaking onto the ground from anywhere.However checking the oil cap after leaving her running for ten minutes there was traces of the dreaded white creamy slug, cleaned it up and hoped it might have been there for some other reason. Checked the cap again 5 minutes later the and white stuff was back, also there was a fair amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. It has not been 100% confirmed yet but all the signs say there is water in the engine :( . I am thinking probably cracked block, any other cause for the water in the engine is going to be a bonus. Anyone any ideas? Suggestions? Thanks in advance

thanks bjork, I actually put a new water pump on the car recently, when I say recently it was over a year and a half ago but the car has only done a maximum of 40miles since, as I have kept her as purely an investment and cause I love cars. Also got a brand new rad from germany which set me back a fair wack so I am really hoping that has not been damaged. The car was so close to being perfect, in the same condition as when it left the factory. Alls that remained was to replace my drivers door (current one is a lil rusty in two patches) and the rear spoiler (motor is knackered). I have both of these ready to be swopped over. Whats the saying....? "that which does not kill me will make me stronger!"

"THE DUDE" Thank you ever so much, I would go as far as saying you are amazing as I didnt want to just dive in and see where I ended up. gona get cracking with this tommorow hopefully it will all just slot into (or in this case out of) place Thanks again

Hi there, did you have any joy? I am in the same predicament. My drivers door has various rust patches and I have purchased another one from ebay. Problem is the door I purchased is completlely hollow, every single screw has been removed (not that I am entirely bothered by that as only paid 99p for an otherwise perfect replacement). Looked around for guides but not had luck finding one. Please please can someone push me in the right direction as I want to restore my rado to its near factory condition........ Thanks

Thanks for all the advice guys, Just got back from removing the lid off of the expansion tank and taking off a few of the hoses etc. Not sure if it looks good or not (by good I mean not as bad as I had thought), the liquid in the expansion tank is not completly solid, took the pipe off of the top of the rad that is completly iced up and all the liquid in the rad looked completly iced as well (bummer as it was a brand new rad purchased from vw in germany)........... Such as people have said wont really know what damage has been caused until it has thawed out. Thinking about leaving a blow fan running in the corner of the garage to raise the temp a little but obviously not too fast as I think that would have adverse effect. Thanks all and I will let ya know the outcome.

Hi guys, Dont know if I am looking for abuse, sympathy or a lil help....... My rado lives in my uncles garage as she is more of an investment than a daily drive. Due to needing space in garage (family funeral) I moved her onto his drive way with the intention of moving the her back into garage once things had settled down. Admittedly I should have moved the car back into the garage sooner, I only managed to get round to doing it yesterday. It did not suprise me that she would not start, being sat up for sometime I assumed the engine was not turning over due to low battery power and pushed the car into the garage. Once in the garage I thought I would check the water pipes just to make sure they had not frozen as a small precaution as I am 100% sure I had filled it up with antifreeze in the summer. Anyway without longing this out all the radiator pipes are frozen solid along with any other part which holds water!!! :( My own dumd ass fault for not moving the car earlier and double checking the pipes when the cold weather came. My question to my learned friends is, what do I do now? (leave it to thaw naturally, leave a blown heater next to it etc). Also what damage am I likely to have done? Cracked the block? Ruined the radiator? water pump? Any comments, advice is welcome. Thanks

Hi, for anyone who has any trouble taking the pulley off, please please listen to those who tell you to HIT it once you have taken out the four bolts, do not take out the 19m one in the middle though. I was not willing to hit it that hard (rubber hammer), tried hitting it and didnt get any where. Someone else who is more of a savage than me hit it harder and it just dropped off......... The timing does not look too bad to set up if you have the correct information, I read Yan's thread and also found another on the below , both very useful.Haven't actually tried to set it up, hopefully will find time on Sunday to do this. http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4109 Thanks Devan

Thank again. I will try this after work. Hopefully have her back together within a couple of weeks. Are there any tips in general you can give for replacing the timing belt. You may have guessed I have not done this on a Corrado before. All advice is appreciated.

Hi, I have searched the forum for the answer to this question but can not find a difintive answer. I have taken out the four allen key bolts from the of the crank pulley and sprayed it with some lubricant. However it does not move. I want to change my timing belt. am I correct in thinking that you do not need to take out the 19m bolt inorder to take the crank pulley out. Please help this has had me stumped for most of the day.

I'll be calling G-WERKS in the morning to arrange the rebuild. I picked up a water pump from VW over the weekend and also purchased an INA timing belt kit from GSF. They said it was a genuine OEM part. I am thinking I might take the timing kit back to GSF and purchase a VW one instead? The difference in price is INA kit £23, the VW timing belt £14 plus tensioner £25. For an extra £17 I can get VW parts. What would you recommend I do?

Thanks guys, I bought my G60 so i could admire her rather than drive her. The old man had been driving her but she has been locked in a garage for months. Charger is out as I have decided to change water pump and timing belt, hence posing the question. Dont know if I am going to sell her or keep her, as I think she should go to a home that is not under a sheet in my garage. She is a lovely example of an original Corrado, but doesn't get to see day light as rarely driven.

Hi, This may be a silly question to ask....... Roughly how much value does having the super charger rebuilt with a standard rebuild add to a G60? Obviously it will differ from car to car. Standard Corrado G60 completly orignal no mods. People's opinions appreciated.

charger is out that bracket behind it is a night mare onto the water pump

hi, other cars stopped me from starting on charger it is now loose but i cant get it out, do i have to take the puller off the charger or the bracket off the back? I went on thematey matey website and he just takes it out. http://www.matey-matey.com/g60-rebuild-article.shtml please help i am in my garage on my lap top, the bracket at the back is an absolute pain in the ar*e

Dirtytorque you are a star. Hopefully a little information is going to take me a long way. Will let you know how i get on regards

Thanks, the weekend is rapidly approaching and no one has mentioned where I might find information on how to remove the charger and water pump. Obviously I can get stuck in and do it without proper instructions but I would prefer to do it correctly. Can anyone HELP!!!!!! Thanks again

Thanks guys, The car has done 150,000 miles. I have practiacally a full service history but there is nothing to say the charger has EVER been rebuilt so defo sending that to GWERKS by the looks of things. I am looking to replace the water pump myself and take out the charger myself, do you know where i can get some information how to do this? I have already replaced the radiator, heater matrix (which was not even broken gutted!!!) and the valves which open to allow the hotwater into the heater matrix and back into the engine. Everything else seems to be fine,- would there be anything else effected by the water pump/charger situation. Need to fix/replace the spoiler module as the spolier has been in one postion since i bought the car and a few cosmetic things - sunroof only goes in one direction, paint work etc. I am going to check the compression to ensure the head gasket is not gone but i fear it may be and change the cam belt. Sorry to go off in various directions but hopefully you have got the gist of what I'm asking. Thanks again for any advice