Chris

could be the're usually 3 pin but theres nothing for it plug into so im assuming its not that important....?

thats ok man. recommended buyer! smooth, quick transaction. would do business with anytime

lol, i havent even cranked it over yet :) was just wondering what it was for.

i know the black one is for the lambda, but what is the white one next to it for?

sorry i havent had chance to take a snappy of it yet but its a white 3 pin plug which is hanging right next to the lambda sensor plug under the car. they are wrapped up together so im assuming it goes under there somewhere. where does it go?? :?

sorted today...stupidly easy to fix. cheers for the heads up guys

when i turn the lights on all the interior lights work fine, only one which doesnt is the trip/time display in the speedo, milage lights up fine. im assuming that the bulb has gone, does anyone no how to check/change it? i had the face of the speedo off and the fuel/temp gauges out but the time display attached to the pcb, does that need to come out? chris

definately keep us posted on this, very interested!

i was thinking that too. ill see if the guy will do some close up shots to check for both front leather door cards (with, i no, the tweeters cut in, damn animals!) and a pair of rear leather door cards (not cut into), all in good condition, how much would these be worth as i am in two mind about them....

what front door speaker pods are these? the're bigger than the standard ones. are they worth any money? chris

indeed you are correct, i just checked my mates mk2 jetta, they are set up diagonally. so that bits sorted now all i need to know is the vr servo im using ok, the one with the 2 pin electrical socket in it. i cant see why it wouldnt be but i better ask incase, i was just going to leave it blank and cap it off (the 2 pin socket i mean)

no its a rado, i was just using the mk2 golf as an example. so you reckon this would be the best option? the non ABS MC... can i just use my vr servo?? i can remember off the top of my head the size of the vr6 MC. if there is a big size difference between the two, wont it make a considerable difference? im open to all suggestions on this one as im still up in the air about it.

its doesnt need abs for the mot. it was one of the first questions i ask my local garages before i started this conversion. as long as it stops promtly and safely its all good. mk2 golf vr's usually run without the abs unit and they get through mot's fine, i know mk2's dont come with vr's as standard but its the same engine conversion. i wont be ragging the nuts off this car or driving it dangerously so i should be ok without the abs option, ill really only be driving it in the summer, its a weekend car.

pm'd

right, so ive ditched my abs system from my rado vr conversion. i just want to run copper brake lines from the master cylinder to each of the calipers. my question is, there are only 2 outlets on the vr6 master cylinder, im going to run the lines like some of the old golfs etc and use a couple of T pieces in the lines to seperate them which outlet controls what? how should it be set up? i.e. should i use the outlet closest to the bulk head to control the front brakes and the one closest to the front of the car to control the rear brakes or...... should i use the one closest to the bulk head to control the drivers side brakes and the one furthest away to control the passenger side brakes etc etc you get the idea. i was going to go with the first one but thought i better ask incase ive missed something incase or before anyone comments on me removing the abs system please dont :) cheers, chris

you dont happen to have a part number do you nick? think ill get a new one too. how much was it? chris

ok, decided after those last comments ill stick with the shaft and see how it treats me. thanks so much to everyone for the advice

point noted. ill go with a normal 16v one chris

Took some last night with my camera phone (finally), excuse the crap quality.... 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00067.JPG[/attachment:1ylycnn0] DSC00069.JPG[/attachment:1ylycnn0] exactly the same as mine, sorry i never did get around to taking any photos of mine. weird it seems to be only me and you so far with this drive shaft. what do ya reckon, use it on the new vr im just about to whack in or get a normal 2.0l 16v drive shaft???

did you try what i said? that will tell you if its the ignition switch. if and when the car turns over and starts to run, take the wire off of the starter motor pin and the battery, open up the throttle if you have to too. if the car is starting off of a bump start then its more than likely the ignition switch. chris.

my ignition barrel went on my 16v awhile ago, until i had time to properly sort it out i unpluged the single pin starter motor plug and ran a 4mm wire from the battery positive straight to the starter motor, that will start it fine, obviously have the ignition on and dont leave it in gear!!! :)

my old 2.0l 16v used to run just under or just over the 100 mark noraml temp (not moving fast or standing still), about 70 degrees ish on motorway. i found the engine did run pretty hot but this is normal, think your just being paranoid, lol just like i used to be.

awesome rado!

i would take a photo but im away till the weekend. really intrigued as to why the drive shaft is like this.

lol, its been under there for years and has not rusted at all like the rest of the parts so im assuming its not steel. it was real strange to find it. ill be looking for a new one then. ill post up on the wanted section. cheers boost monkey for the heads up, im only after the long shaft by itself really as ive got everything else i need brand new already.