Chris

hi im using my original 16v drive shafts for my vr conversion (keeping it narrow track and 4 bolt) now the short passenger side shaft looks normal but the longer drivers side looks a little different to what im used to seeing. its just as thin as the thin passenger side shaft and also looks to be made from alloy, its totally shiny after i hosed it off, can pretty much see my face in it. is this worth using this on the vr? is it going to be safe? i thought the longer shaft was meant to be fatter than the pass side shaft.... if i have to replace it does anyone know of a good place to buy one from at a fair price? cheers, chris

hi, for anyone whos done it, how much heat wrap did you use on your vr6 exhaust manifold roughly? want to wrap my new s/s manifold but im not sure how much to buy chris

just answered my question, they are different

hi, im doing a vr6 conversion into my old 2.0l 16v rado, are the vr6 steering racks the same as the 2.0l 16v ones? saves me ripping it out if they are. mind im using 16v wishbones with the vr sub frame to keep my 4 stud wheel bolt pattern also, clutch master cylinder, can i just use my old 16v one and just connect it to my vr6 slave?

great, cheers bud

have you got a contact number for vince at stealth?

i have a set of bbs rm's which are a 4 x 100 bolt pattern. i have just started swapping my 2.0l 16v for my new vr6. i cant use the bbs rm's i have as the vr6 hubs are 5 stud (unless anyone knows something i dont?) so it looks like im going to have to get some 5 stud bbs rm's and sell the 4 stud ones i have. they are in good condition (not buckled either) but stripped down. they include all 120 bolts but no outer lips or tyres. how much are these worth?

hello, im just about to put the new vr6 engine into my corrado (it was originally a 2.0l 16v) my question is about the wheel hubs. i have a nice set of 4 stud bbs rm's which i would like to keep for this car, but the vr6 has 5 stud hubs can i use 4 stud hubs on a vr6 engine, i can leave the rear discs as 4 stud its just the fronts im concerned about. do vr6 outer cv joints fit any 4 stud hubs? someone at vw told me this couldnt be done but he had not tried himself so i thought i'd ask a real expert on this topic. if its true that it cannot be done are there 5 to 4 stud adaptors i can buy? ive never seen them if there are any. any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! cheers, chris.

ok, not to worry. cheers for the quick reply

hi, just a quick question, i was wondering if bbs rs center caps would fit the rm's? or whether there were any other type of center cap out there for them. all ive seen are the usual nut type ones and the flush ones. if the rs style ones do fit / or can be made to fit, would the patterns line up?

yes thats the one i mean, its got an 8mm nut on it. screw it right the way out so its not holding the throttle body open at all and give it a go. i no it sounds really dumb but try it, it could save you some time and buck if its as simple as that.

well the engine will be coming out within the next couple of weeks, im not looking for much for it as id rather have the place for the vr. have a think about it, no worries if something better comes up for you. the 1.8 16v is a piece of cake to take out, like the guy before said.... good luck

i have a 2.0l 16v im looking to shift soon if your looking for a straightish swap. it will only be the lump and gearbox though as i need the other bits. its still in my rado at the moment and running but will need a new ecu unit as mine is alittle faulty, but the engine in general is sound with a new clutch. no odd noises or smoke. i live near southampton if thats any good to you. chris

my 2.0l 16v had this exact same problem last year. i replaced everything but the problem remained. i had an auto electrician look at it and he fixed it within 5 minutes. turned out the small adjuster pin on the throttle body was screwed too far in, so when the car started it was fine but as soon as it had been run for 5-10mins the revs jumped up and stayed at 1500-2000. i did play around with this when i was trying to fix it but didnt think it would be this simple so didnt focus on this point, the car was running fine before too, this problem just came out of the blue, this is why i didnt think it was the throttle body adjuster. all i had to do was unscrew the pin to allow minimal air through. sounds stupid but i missed it and it cost me £££. hope its this simple for you too, the problem youve described does sound the same as what i experienced last year. good luck

hi. i have a 2.0l 16v corrado and intend to put a vr6 into it. I have the vr6 and most of the bits for the swap. was just wondering if anyone knew of any informative links or information regarding this topic. i know people arent keen on this swap and buying a vr would be a better idea but i got the vr i have now cheap so saw this as the best option. i have the engine, loom, ecu, clocks, brakes, hubs, subframe, shafts, mounts... ive not got the abs pump unit but was going to run it without, is this just a case of re-running the brake lines to just the servo? failing that, i think my abs has always been broken so can i just leave my original abs unit, pipe it up to the new servo and forget about it? ive been told that i can use my 2.0l 16v fuel pump with the vr engine, is this true? apparently it pumps more quickly than the original vr pump....this would save the whole tank and pump change.... the main problem i can see myself having is the loom, if anyone can point me to a good link for this too...ive worked out most of the loom but there are bits im not sure of, spare plugs which arent plugged in etc... any photos or information from people who have done this swap would be greatly appreciated!!!! chris

will the orange needled vr6 clocks go straight into a 2.0 16v without having to change the electrical loom plug going in to it? (are they the same so it would just be a case of plug and play?) also on g60's and 16v's there is a vaccum line plugged into the back of the speedo aswell as the electrical loom plug. does the vr6 have this too?? i cant remember if it did or not. if i unplugged the vaccum line will it effect anything? i would just buy a late style 16v speedo but they are hard to come across at a reasonable price. vr6 ones are much more common, i no the rev. counter is slightly different but im sure it wont notice too much. any advice would be appreciated guys and gals

so its probably just a case of replacing the switch? it was on its highest setting before it all went out just wanted to make sure there werent any fuses/relays i should check first

so after taking the speedo surround and the blower surround out to fix the last problem i had yesterday, ive managed to cause myself another problem my headlight switch is loose in the dash, i switched them on before driving tonight went to rest it inside the dash again and managed to just catch the metal dash frame on the internals of the switch. there was a spark unsurprisingly not really impressed with the outcome, everything works as it should apart from when i turn the lights on the green speedo / blower / switch lights dont come on. the headlight switch itself light up fine and all the switches still work. its just the green glow lights is there a fuse or relay ive probably blown? im way too tired to work it out right now. the only answer i could come up with was F this right now TIA

could someone please tell me what this relay controls. the part number is: 191 937 503

i would but none of my mates have this relay, do you know exactly what this relay controls and whether this is probably the problem...

the car was working fine this morning, but on the way home from work tonight it started playing up. i was driving, turned my sidelights on, everything was fine, then turned my headlights on, the lights stayed on sidelights and the blower and rear window heater switched themselves off, when i turned the lights switch back to sidelights the blower/rear window heater/fog switches worked again. got home and checked it all out, now the blower/rear window heater/fog switches wont come on at all and i can still only get the sidelights to work. i checked all the fuses and they are fine, cant think why there'd be a problem with the wiring as i have only recently sorted it all out. i noticed one of the relays may control the dash switches, its the relay with the number 18 on it. could this be the problem?