tomvass83

Did you manage to fix your problem on the golf. I think i'm having the same issue on my corrado 16v 1.8 '90 I reckon it must be the coil as i changed the dizzy to no avail

Hi all, Is there any clever individuals who might be able to help me with my 1.8 16v '90 c. It all started when the engine over heated as the fan didn't come on as the fuse had blown. Anyway, stopped and let the engine cool down and checked the water level and it was fine. I then started driving it and everything was ok until it got up to running temperature. It then started juddering, lost all power and would only idle or rev in neutral. once i tried to put down the accelerator when driving it would stutter and stop moving. I got the aa guy out and he said it was the dizzy as oil was in the cap, changed that myself using some markings i made. started it up and was working like a dream and drove. i then thought i would leave her to get hot and runner out again. Then exactly the same problem started again. The car just wouldn't go. The engine would turn over but not move under load. There was no rubbish in the dizzy cap this time. Any ideas much appreciated as am stumped Cheers

Any advise on removing the dizzy??

Thanks, I have a friend who can get me one for £50 notes + VAT so going to have a crack it myself. Any tips, I have been told to mark where the dizzy comes out so that i can re align the new one. Thanks for the help so far guys

I haven't managed to remove the actual distributor yet from the car. i think though that the green ring must be the seal that he was referring to. As the car was running up to temperature it was fine but once hot the car starts to jerk. When he showed me the inside of the cap it had oil on it. After he washed it, it started again fine for about 5 mins and then would start jerking again. How hard was it to remove the distributor from the engine as i will have a go with mine and see what it comes out like? Thanks for the help so far.

Good day everyone, I was hoping that someone might be able to help with this subject. My girlfriend drove my c 16v 1.8 1990 on the weekend. The only instruction past not crashing it i gave her was to flick the cooling fan by pass switch when we got off the motorway. Fortunately she didn't crash the car but over heated it. The c then started jerking so rang the aa, he had a look and confirmed the seal had gone on the distributor. It might be a coincidence that the seal went at the same time she overheated it but i can't help but think the two were linked. I have had a look at it and i need a new distributor/arm and seal for the c. anyone got any ideas on the sort of cost i'm looking at to get it fixed in a garage. parts labour etc as i don't fancy getting done. The aa guy told me that the distributors are hard to come by and seals, so anyone any ideas on where to find one? I was going to put the car into storage as getting a company car in september but i might have to sell her so if anyone is looking for a cracking c that we have had in the family from new let me know. Body work is a bit warn but interior, engine (excluding distributor and cooling system) are in cracking condition. Any help would be much appreciated.

happy days, have been on a long trip after getting the thermostat changed and the temperature of oil and water seems to be running a lot cooler and the heater fan keeps putting out hot air no matter what the temperature of the engine is. doesn't seem to be as low as it use to be but its far better. going to get some new coolant g12+.

cheers for letting me know. i'm getting the stat done on saturday. if this doesn't do the job then i'm going to tackle the rad, then the water pump. by this time i hope to have it sorted and running like a dream again.

do you know how the water cooling system is designed? is the the thermostat before or after the radiator when it goes into the engine. the reason i ask is that the top of the radiator gets very hot but the bottom takes a very long time to get close. this might be said because the radiator cools the water but i disconnected the fan and had the car stationary so the radiator wouldn't do anything to cool surely? does this mean that the thermostat does not open enough or that the water pump is not circulating the water quick enough for building up at the top of the radiator. mind you the engine started getting very hot over the space of an hour journey not gradually over years. in regards to the internal heater are you saying that the temperature sensor (being electrical) is cutting the hot air off or is it a valve which is doing this? sorry it might seem like basic questions but not that educated on engines.

cracking web site, i love my 1.8 16v 1990 raddo i have been looking around to find an answer to my problem but no one seems to have had the exact same symptoms as myself. a couple of days ago i noticed that both the oil and water temperature levels were knocking around the 110c. this has never really happened before apart from when i have been in static traffic for about 15mins. i then get moving and it comes down to about 74c on both oil and water. now when i go anywhere whether slowly or fast, low or high revving the oil and water is constantly high and it has never done this before. when the water temperature gets up around the 85-90mark the hot air on the heater fan inside cuts out and starts blowing cold until i turn the engine off and wait for the temp to come down. i have been advised that it is either, the water pump. but it does have water flowing when revved hard. radiator blockage, thermostat broken, heater fan valve broken or compression tank. i might try this weekend to wash through the water system and try to remove the thermostat so water is running constantly to possibly rule it out. any advise on how to remove the thermostat? blast the water system through? and what the real problem might be? any advise hints tips would be much appreciated. happy driving