STUMACG60

Thanks A-J Will go down that route I think, Took my old one out the other day still looks brand new!!! No corrosion or damage really. Haven`t tried it out on he road yet but cant imagine I have fixed anything with just removong and refitting it :( . Cheers Stu

Cheers Might give that a try, does it look like the original? Trying to keep the car standard looking. 8) Stu

Hi all Having the typical crap reception, I have seen the replacement info which is great info and the price VAG charge for a new base :( . With this in mind I have checked Eurocarparts for a replacement, they do a beesting amped for £21. Does anyone have any experience or opinion on whether these are any good/same design etc??? Any advice would help. Thanks Stu

Hi, Trying to sign up but it wont let me at the moment. It comes up Error!!! saying too many open connections. Not great with computer jargon so will try again laters :D :D Looking forward to it though Cheers Stu

Definetly worth getting crossovers mate, they will direct the correct frequency to the correct speaker/tweeter. You can make them yourself, buy capacitors to cut certain frequencies out. I think there`s a basic DIY guide on matey matey website. I know Maplins at the top of Lothian Rd will have them. Should only cost a few quid 8) May have to buy a few different values and try them to get best results. :scratch: Hope this helps mate

Like Andi says, it sounds like a bad earth and/or your RCA`s running next to your power supply causing interference! You can buy an in-line loop surpressor that connects between the RCA`s and amp but they`re not gonna cure it just make it tolerable :( Spend a day re-routing cables and getting a good earth. Decent shielded RCA`s help prevent it too. Hope you get it sorted though mate. 8)

Like corradodude said, dont drop the screws when trying to put back in, the r/h side one was a wee bit trickier, but 10 mins from start to finish mate. Saves tearing the car to pieces too :D :D . Also on the older models there`s four screws hold the instrument shroud in, dont know about post 92 model though. Enjoy :D

Whilst looking for an annoying rattle behind the instrument cluster, i found the perfect hidig place for brick sized crossovers. There is two large areas once the instrument cluster is removed or placed to one side.Also the speaker original wiring passes by on the left which is handy!!! My huge MB Quarts are now hiding behind there :D :D . Hope this helps you all in future installs 8)

Oh that is not good! I thought it might be the start of problems with the alarm. :( I`ll put that on the shopping list along with Recaro`s, new chip and pulley etc etc. :lol: The rado is a never ending drip of dolla`s :D :D

Gutted for ya mate, Had that happen to me a while back, appreciate you keeping me in mind :) If anything changes my end will let you know mate.

g60greeny, I might be interested in taking the recaro`s off your hands in the future m8 if your still selling in a couple of months?I`ve got a mint standard cloth if you needed an interior in between, Need to save the penny`s at the mo as going on hols and car insurance soon :(

Coolrado, Cheers fella, you were spot on. :D Removed fuses and it went out! Put them back in alarm still fine just no indicating locked from the indicators, I can live with that.The rado has been delocked so need remote locking to work :)

Cheers Coolrado will have a look I`ve got the factory quantum alarm, The L/H flash fine when locking and unlocking and the right kinda dim slightly between flashes. Is it different relays for r/h and l/h in the alarm system? I`m having one of those mint credit card moments!!!! Some good Karma happens, I treat the Rado to some 17" OZ`s and a geometry set up it responds by going t*ts up on me :lol: The life of a Rado owner :?

Right guys, Popped out in the Rado, got out locked it, when I came back the R/H indicators are all on, no ignition on or stalk selected. I imagined it was a loose or knackered Relay.Tried pulling out all the relays and resetting them, did nothing they`re still on!!! :( When selecting the hazards now they all stay on and dont flash, again points me towards the Relay but that didn`t work . Pulled every fuse too, incase it was a short circuit from another supply, lights etc guess what still on!!!! Kinda run out of ideas now!!! Help needed ASAP!!! Thanks

Found the leak,all sorted now. was tracking down from the flexi connection in the engine bay :D Couldn`t see any holes or loose connection but I imagine it was expanding when pressurised and escaping, took a few second to develop. Latestarter have you checked all the fuel pipes around the pressure regulator? I noticed it smells stronger around the ISV when first started aswell but like you say it goes away when warm, Do you have the carbon cannister removed? Like was sayed before unless its tucked out the way it does cause a strong smell? Happy hunting mate? Any probs mate I`m just down the road near Burford. MAy not be able to offer loads of advice but can laugh at each others rado issues :D :D

Well after much invest found the cause of my problem!!! :? Both my sidelight blew the bulbs at the same time and my battery went in the multimeter so got some weird reading!!! After 5 mins with a new battery in and new bulbs all is fine!!! Wot a plonker!!! Basics,basics basics!!!!! Thanks guys for all the advice on this thread. 8) stu

Cheers, I will be going to the local scrappy soonest for a look soon as possible, I wondered if a golf mk2 had the same floor pan design? If so might be able to get from a stealer unlike the rado ones :( Thanks everyone for the pics and ideas. Stu

Thanks geezers, Called Vw in Swindon today to get the hoses in the pic on order( Cheers Riley), apparently dont do them as of 2006 and no replacement either :( The leak is definetly around gearstick area though,only when its been running, checked the filter again to make sure though nowt from there, I do have the Carbon Can removed and have tucked the breather away through the wing. I have noticed a fuel smell when I first did this, but its definetly stronger now!!!

Hi I have been getting a strong smell of petrol when sitting stationary for more than a few seconds, I have replaced the three hoses under the bonnet at the regulator etc. So have ruled these out as there is no trace what so ever. It is really strong smelling under the gearstick also there was a damp area near the exhaust,not good surely with all that heat!!! I know there is two plastic pipes running the length of the car to and from the fuel tank. Firstly are these readily available from stealers still? and how easy to replace. Any advice or pt no`s for these would be great cheers Stu

Well today stripped the battery out and checked over all the headlight upgrade loom I fitted. Unfortunately everything looked fine,checked all the connections and bulb fittings nothing disconnected or shorting out :( . I checked the voltage again with dim-dip connected and I`m getting 12V at the sidelights.But as soon as I disconnect the dim-dip plug the supply is 0 V at the sidelights. I know with the engine running it puts the dip lights on,(which it does do)but I cant see why this should affect the sidelight supply. Surely it would just supply the dip circuit and not remove from sidelight circuit? Does anyone have a wiring diagram or advise any other gremlin that is causing this :? I know the Headlight switch is prime suspect,(Thanks James) which I`ll change when I can get one,If anyone has a spare kicking about gathering dust drop me a line and I`ll buy it. Thanks for any advice its driving me mad

Cheers I Will give that a try.They were working fine one day and then not the next!!! The curse of the Rado strikes again.Will post a reply when issue rectified :? Cheers Stu

Hi peeps, Could someone help out with my problem. I have recently made and fitted a new headlight loom( Dip and Full beam). All seemed fine, disconnected dim-dip etc and worked as advertised :) . Bought and fitted some new Philips advance +`s. Since doing this I have lost power only at the sidelights!!! Checked the supply voltage at the headlight connector on each headlight and I`m getting 0 volts when sidelights selected. I know its not the fuses as the tail lights are on :( Any ideas please. Cheers Stu

Hi Well the bluefin superchip arrived on time and was installed. What a difference!!! If anyone is out there with a 2.0 tdi or 2.0 t-fsi and is contemplating it, I would recommend this upgrade. My rado is running stock with a FMIC and K&n, Miltek with cat -bypass and I couldn`t touch the audi between 30-100 mph. It aint no substitute or as much fun for me as my rado but its one seriously quick motor for getting from a to b. The missus is happy now and so am I as the rado has taken up residence in the garage where she belongs on the winter nights!!! :D

Hi Peeps Having owned and REALLY enjoyed my corrado g60 for the past 6 months :lol: , my wife was nagging me to get her a newer car. I`m VAG all the way and her previous motor was a 1.8t sport audi a3. Awesome engine and good all rounder really, as she is quite conservative on the driving front. I wanted to stick with something along the same lines so I was soon sold on an A3 2.0 tdi quattro s-line. Awesome spec standard and the previous owner fully specced it up with the toys. Anyway although the stock performance is good I have already bought and waiting for the superchips bluefin upgrade.I`m wondering if anyone else outhere has any experience with them and secondly where the serial port connection is in the motor. Its a 55 plate 3 dr Audi, Much appreciated for any help or advice Stu

Cheers mate, will have a look for that. :D