Squire

Yeah cheers for the constructive criticism....... I promise i will never attempt anything on my car again Dad, and promise to pay lots of money for someone else to do it Dad, and also never ever under any circumstances try to learn anything.......... you tit :cuckoo: One side actually fitted ok originally. Cheers for everyone elses help though. earlier spring plates did a better job! :D

Just had a chance to do a hunt around the forum and found a useful thread: "suspension change walkthrough/ help needed" Looks like i need to order a couple of spring discs for the earlier VR. Think that should do it. I'll put an update on here when i get the parts etc. Thanks for info. Much appreciated Steve

Thanks for that Neil. I'll pop down the local stealers Monday and see what I can get/order. The spring disc/plate is about 3.5 cm in diameter. I needs at least 4.5cm to 5 cm by the looks of it. Maybe Euro car parts sold me the wrong springs? The rears are fine though, and the lower part of the front spring fits snug in the shock. The springs I took off (standard) had a smaller diameter at the top to the Apex (35mm lower) ones. I refitted the left shock and spring after some re adjustment but I just started hearing some twanging again. booooooooooo! I'll see what I can do. Shame I hit this snag as changing the shocks and springs all went pretty well apart from that. I'm delaying wheel alignment etc until it's all sorted! Tell you what though, frickin nightmare getting the parcel shelf guide, speaker holder things out! (boot). Just fiddly! Cheers Steve

Oops i didnt mention that did i?! It's a VR6. 1995 if thats helps? Yes the springs are on the right way up. The bottom of the spring sits nicely and lined up in the shock. The top plate is the right way up too as far as i know. It came off that way up anyway. The diameter just doesn't seem large enough for these springs. But having said that, the other side im not having trouble with (famous last words!). The plate on that side is the same size too. Thanks

Oh just to add. The pics are taken after I've removed the springs again and put it back together again.

Hi All, Fitted new struts and springs last weekend. Finished the job and all was well until the following day. The front nearside spring was making twanging noises when steering on nearly full lock. Heard a bang yesterday from that side so today I decided to take a closer look. I can see what has happened. The spring has popped over the plate at the top. The spring diameter at the top is larger than that of the original springs so I think i may need larger plates? Ive called Euro car parts and GSF but neither do the spring plates. I expect the stealers do, but as i need larger one (i think), would I have to buy them for a different model, and fit them to my C? What is odd is that the other side seems fine! Any suggestions? Ive attached a few pics which hopefully show it a bit more clearly. The 3 pics are of the nearside front. Offside is still on the car and happy. Cheers

No need for the info anymore. I just went and replaced it for a BOGE. Ta

Morning! Im replacing the shocks and springs on the C today. Just realised (somewhat belatedly!) that I have 3 Boge Turbo Gas and one SACHS advantage. The SACHS is a front shock. Are they the same shock absorber? I know Boge and SACHS are the same company now but didn't want to go through the hassle of fitting everything to find the ride is a bit odd. They look the same but the SACHS is a little easier to compress. Anyone know? Cheers!

Hi people, I've bought some lowering springs and new shocks for all corners. Hopefully not a daft question.... Just looked in the knowledge base on here and found a guide for replacing front shocks. Does it appy to VR6's as well? I haven't got a DIY manual for the Rado, only have my old Haynes one for a MK2 Jetta/Golf. I heard the suspension is a similar set up? I read the section on removing shocks and it talks about referring to various other sections about removing the anti roll bar eye bolt nut, steering tie rod balljoint, draining the power steering unit, and removing that etc etc. Sounds like a right rigmarole. It sounds a lot simpler in the KB! So is the Haynes manual being anal, is it just wrong for tha Rado, or should I go through all these measures, or just trust the KB on here? If it means going through all the haynes work i'll just have to give myself more time. Finally, anything else worth doing while i'm at it e.g. if you're doing the suspsension, you may as well......... etc Thanks in advance

Nice one. Thanks for the advice. Is the cenre bore the load bearing part of the wheel? Was wondering if it could be simply filed out? Cheers

I like the 16" scooby wheels, prob go for the 5 spoke ones. I hear you prob need 5mm spacers for the VR - does that sound right? Guess you can get these from Halfords or something? Sounds like the existing VR bolts will probably be fine? But the centre bore needs to be a bit bigger. Can that be done at a wheel refurb place or something? If you can DIY, what would you need? Probably dumb questions there but i've never really felt the need to change wheels on past cars. Just that my speedline are a little scabby and I fancy something slightly bigger than 15". Cheers people! Steve (95 VR6)

Hi All, Thanks for the suggestions/advice. I managed to get in touch with Alan White the former Autotechnik guru. He came to look at the car at the start of the week and diagnosed that the problem wasn't major afterall. phew The breather had been damaged and eventually broken apart - it sits somewhere near the manifold at the back of the engine and silences airflow. As it was damaged the engine management was "out" resulting in the engine running too lean so there was misfiring. This was happening in the engine somewhere rather than backfiring so it sounded like a clacking sound. So yeah not something metallic afterall. Anyway in case you're interested the part number is 021133429a. Cost just over £20 for the part. Might help someone in the future? Alan fitted the part today and shes running fine again :) Might go for bit of a drive this weekend, ive missed the fun! Cheers Steve

Yeah the clip makes it sound like a misfire - i think thats just down to the quality of the film clip. Rado being looked at Monday morning. I'll let you know the diagnosis as soon as I know. Fingers crossed its not too big a problem!

Hi, The link is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-s59WqycME Ive chopped off about 20secs at the start is it didnt make that clanking noise. Just revved a bit hard then calmed down (by itself). Towards the end of filing the engine almost died falling to about 500rpm or something. Cheers

Hi, Ok good idea. I pop it on youtube and put the link on here. The clip makes it sound like someone putting their finger in their mouth and making a pop sound! I live in West End. J7 M27 is the nearest exit. Back in a mo. Thanks

Unfortunately I cannot attach the file. Had to trim it a lot. Its a wmv file now as i used movie maker. The forum wont let me upload a wmv file. pants :( !

Shes done 124K. Looking through the service history the upper chain front and rear guides were replaced 20/3/2007. Can i attach files on here? i could make an avi clip with sound. Cheers

Thanks for that. Ill have to find someone with VAG COM. The vw specialist near where i work charges £70 to hook it up :( I cant find any broken wires and the contacts on the multiplug look good. did squirt some WD40 in there though and dried it out. Well.... engine starts and the revving seems to have gone, still got that "clack" periodically though. Seems to be from the lower part of the Engine towards the bulkead. Would taking it for a quick spin around the block be unadvisable? (i dont mean quick, snails pace is fine!) Bugger!

Hi All, Just got in my Rado, started her up and my heart started to sink. Engine turns over, bursts into life but then revs high (prob about 3 grand - must admit didnt check), then drops low again to almost stalling, then revs hard again, then there was a pop. Almost like a bang but not quite so loud. The sound came from the engine bay and sounded a bit metallic. Anyway, turned off and tried again - same thing happened but the bang happens at random times. I thought of maybe starting her again and leaving it for a minute but im a bit scared I could do some serious damage. I turned the engine off after about 7 seconds because of the noises. Last drove her yesterday without any indication of a problem looming. Wasnt driving her hard either. So any ideas? start her up and see what happens or be cautious and get a mobile machanic out?! Its a 1995 VR6 with 124K on the clock. Last serviced in August. Cheers Steve

Hi All, I have a problem starting the engine in my VR6 Corrado. The battery is fine, and the starter motor makes all the right noises, but I have to keep the starter motor whizzing away for about 6 seconds before the engine fires into life (and its more of a splutter into life!) It didnt used to be like that. Used to start pretty much on the turn of the key immediately. The problem started happening about 4 weeks ago. It seems to have happened since putting some redex in the petrol tank. It didnt have starting problems immediately after putting the redex in, only after the next fill up (minus the redex). Kinda wish I didnt stick that stuff in the tank now, although surely that wouldve gone from the system now? (filled up with petrol about 5 times since) It just seems a bit of a coincidence. The car was due a service so i thought i'd worry about it after the service hoping that might solve the problem. The service included changing the spark plugs, and the fuel filter (done at a VAG specialist), and i also had it hooked up to VAGcom which showed no fault codes. The engine still struggles to start however :( The car drives fine i.e not cutting out, or loss of power. its just firing the engine into life. If I try to start the engine after a run in the car (enough to get the engine up to temperature) , say after leaving it for 5 mins, it will start straight away. But maybe leaving it 10mins after a run, it will struggle again. Like i said it will start eventually. I have noticed a bit of smoke come out the exhaust once she fires up but not everytime. I usually use Vpower petrol, but have tried switching to regular, then back again. It didn't make any difference to the starting! So any ideas please? Cheers in advance!

Hope this isn't naughty posting on the Corrado forum, but i have a question about my mk3 golf gti 16v. I do own a Corrado too though! Just as im getting a few niggly probs with the C (slowly getting around to fixing one by one), the golf decides to join the party! The problem is this: the front passenger window does go up and down, but in stages. I press the button to drop the window and it goes down but then stops, i press the button again and it continues down but stops again. On average it takes about 6 or 7 clicks of the button to get the window down. Roughly the same on the way up too. It doesnt matter if i hold the button in or let the "one touch" feature do its work. It just stops at a random place. This happens when i press the button for the passenger window on the passenger door, or using the 2 button driver side button for the passenger window. I have the door card off and have tried re-aligning the window. Still no difference. I also un-clamped the window and let the mechanism move freely without weight - still had the same problem. The window runners are greased up with no obstruction. The motor also doesn't sound like its struggling. I doubt its a fuse too otherwise the window wouldn't work at all right? So any idea? please...! (is this the bit where you say bugger off and post on clubgti.com?!!!) Cheers guys

Hi, Thanks for your suggestions. I have had the car on axle stands and spun the wheels backwards on full lock. Also put the car in reverse and put steering on full lock either way. No sound! I havent had the car up since the replies though so will have another look at the CV boots hopefully in a couple of weeks (cant this weekend). Both front disks (nearside and offside) spin as the screws are sheared off. Ill try drilling them out when i get her up on stands again. When i plopped her back on the ground again after her first trip on the axle stands, there wasn't much sound when reversing and turning. The noise has gotten worse again now though (back to original squeak). The disks have a lot of meat on them and there isn't any corrosion. I'll take the pads off next time and rough them up a bit and see if that helps. Couldn't see any stones stuck but will have a closer look next time. Just another note; the car has standard wheels and suspension (the subtle 4x4 look :lol: ) I'm planing on lowering it later in the summer after ive fixed a few minor things. Actually thinking about it, car does pull to the left a bit - doubt that'd have anything to do with it though....? Cheers guys

Update: I think the disks are the correct ones afterall. Had a better look now and the hole for the screw that fixes the disk in place does line up. The screw has sheared off so i cant get another one in (if i had one). Looks like i'll try an easy out and get a new screw from the stealers. Still don't know why it squeaks going backwards though. CV boots look intact.... help! :(

When i am reversing and steering either left or right i get a loud squeak from the front wheels. It is not constant, its every revolution. Its loud too, not a little squeak. I would almost liken it to running your finger nails down a black board but more metallic! If i am reversing straight - no noise. Driving forward straight, and when turning - no noise. The brakes squeal nearly all the time when I apply them (which is also annoying), but Ive never had luck with squealing brakes on any of my cars in the past ( including Jetta, Golf, and previous Corrado. ummm theres something in common there.....! I have taken the front wheels off today to have a look and have also found that the brake disks are loose - They spin so that the wheel bolt sockets can be hidden. Im pretty sure my previous Corrado's brakes didnt do this. To be honest they almost look like the wrong disks as the securing hole (well i presume it is for a screw to secure the disk) doesn't line up with the hole. Just the caliper seems to be holding the disks in place (same both sides - near and off) with the wheel off. Of course the wheel bolts will do a job when the wheel is on. So 2 questions: 1) The disks (I am told by the previous owner - i bought the car in April) were fitted recently. Do they sound ok? Are there new disks that do not need a securing screw and therefore the road wheel bolts are ok to secure them in place? 2) Any ideas on the what loud squeaking could be? Its embarrassing more than anything. I get some funny looks when parking at work each day! ( Cheers all for your advice in advance!! Stephen

Cheers for that. I reckon i'll give that a go!