apaper
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0 NeutralAbout apaper
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Rank
Newbie
- Birthday 03/12/1973
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Location
Washington, DC. USA
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Interests
Automobiles (of course), Vintage Motorcycles, Watches, Music, and all other Expensive hobbies...
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Occupation
IT Services; Professional Staffing
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Yes, we still don't have this issue over in the States :help: Thanks for the compliments. Thank you :) . If you notice the pics of the base/bottom of the fascia have felt round pads and two rubber grommetts... Those rubber grommetts sit 'behind' the top thin edge of the OE VDO gauge cluster, allowing the bottom to 'lock in'. Then the top falls back into place but is kept from falling too far back (so it's just the perfect placement) due to the radio sitting on a ledge that I built inside of the dash. Therefore, the entire radio's backside is supported, and since that's the heaviest portion of the entire assembly (fascia, pull pins, radio/meters), the sheer weight of the whole assembly keeps things rather secure. Then, the top of the assembly is kept in place by 2 small nuts/bolts which are installed from the center vents (you have to remove the vents to access these bolts) and go through/down into the top of the radio's assembly/fascia. Of course, the radio needs to be slid out of the sleeve (and assembly) to access these nuts/bolts, but once they are secured, the vents and radio are installed back into their resting positions. It was imperative that no glues were used as I needed to ensure future servicablity without damage to any structure. Does this answer your question I hope? :grin: Regards,
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Thank you Gav. Much appreciated, sir. :?
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I would be honored :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: Thank you James.
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Thank you JMC :grin: ! The amps are Tube amplifiers (very old technology) that were hand built in Japan. The x-overs are also hand built by the same company: Musee Tube amps are very rare in any enviornment (ie. Home audio) but especially car audio. Only 2-3 very high-end (small) manufactures make tube amps for car applications. The big one is 150 watts per channel (running the front speakers) and the small one is 50 watts per channel running the subwoofer (bridged to 100 watts). The quality and type of sound they produce is simply fantastic :luvlove: . Thanks again for your compliments :wink: Cheers,
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Cheers :nuts:
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1993 SLC: Front Door Speaker Baffle Enclosure_Step-by-Step
apaper replied to apaper's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Anytime, JMC. Anytime 8) -
Thanks Mattnogrove! I don't really have lots of spare time, but I make time when I can. It's all about creating time for the things in life that you enjoy and that are a priority :? Can you tell that I don't have any kids :wave: :wave: except for me, that is :nuts: :dorky: :roll: Thanks Emirc! Thank you sir :grin: Your McIntosh statement, MrBeige is funny as hell. You're a dirty dirty :censored: :censored: :censored: man, man :ignore: Thanks Dirtytorque. Ps. I like your username :dorky: Now this is very nice of you to say, but you're being waaaaay too nice because I don't deserve :shrug: such praise. Thank you DJmac56.
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Thank you Mattnorgrove, thank you :nuts: :nuts: :nuts:
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Sorry to do that to you, Chimo... :ignore: :pale: :bad-words: Thank you so much for such a compliment :luvlove: Regards,
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1993 SLC: Front Door Speaker Baffle Enclosure_Step-by-Step
apaper replied to apaper's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
The spray, which used to be available in spray cans, in now only available in 5 gallon containers and needs to be applied with a air compressor/spray gun. This would help reduce vibration/noise transmission of the panel, but I would recommend you seal up the rear quarter section's stamped metal instead with dynamat like I did the doors. I did this on the inner and outer metal surfaces and then topped the inner metal surfaces with 1/8" dynaliner. This made a nice improvement! Thanks for your compliements, JMC. Regards, -
Yes, great eye, Ben! I have yet to see this mag. as we're one month behind you guys here in the US :bad-words: Thank you so so much, Emirc! I truly appreciate you sharing that with me :lol: Cute! Very cute :wink: Jim: It's my pleasure!! Thank you sir for your kind words. Sincerely, -Adam
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1993 SLC: Front Door Speaker Baffle Enclosure_Step-by-Step
apaper replied to apaper's topic in ICE 'n' Secure
Thanks Tom! They do sound AMAZING! Huge soundstage, wonderful midbass, agressive attack and NO vibrations :eek: ! The primary tools were a jig saw, spindle sander, router w/ cutting bits and rabbeting 'flush mount' bits and circular (cutting) jig, drill, belt sander and heat gun (for dynamat). Oh, and whatever other little tools/measuring devices you see in the pics.To get the job done in its bare essential layout, a jig saw would really be the only critically needed tool. I hope this helps you sir! Most sincerely, -Adam -
Thank you, Andy. Thank you :salute:
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It's not that I mind you asking...it's just that I hate to think about what I spent :gag: :gag: :gag: and I think I've repressed this deep within my memory banks :censored: so I'll have to pass on this one :salute: . I can tell you this, though, that I paid $400 USD for the leather and then paid an additional 10% to Cobra for the custom work. Plus, the polished aluminum on the sides of the seats were additional. Thank you, VR6C, thank you for your kind words! :)