ross.taylor

I completely understand that legally I have shot myself in the foot. But I was hoping that the guy might have had the decency to stick to our agreement. As for the correct fee ..... if he had asked me for a further £25 after having gone to the DVLA office I would gladly have given it to him, but at the time the information on the web seemed to indicate that it would cost him £80 to put the plate on retention for me.

I need some advice and possibly a lend of some forum clout from anyone willing. I sadly had to sell my Rado last year at the end of October to buy a (very slow - 68bhp!) Transporter. The guy I sold it to drove to see it from Salisbury with a mechanic mate who I guess was there to look for any problems with the car. We thrashed out a price which was a little below what I wanted but of course more then he wanted to pay. He wanted to take it away there and then but it needed an MOT within a month and it still had my plate on it. So we adjusted the price to cover the MOT and I gave him £80 cash back to put the plate on retention for me and so that he could send me the retention document. I heard nothing for a month or so. So I contacted him and he said that he hadn't had a chance to do it. So I left it for a bit and the next time he said that the car was off the road and so he couldnt get to the DVLA office (I have now seen from his old posts that he has a 2nd car). Shortly after this I received a letter from the DVLA saying that I was now no longer the owner of the car. From looking through his old posts it seems that he has had some problems with the car, head gasket etc, but it was of course sold as seen. As far as I knew the car was in great mechanical nick, with only a recent slight thirst for water which I told him about. He is now ignoring my requests for my number plate and I can only guess that he intends on keeping my £80 retention fee to cover some of his repair costs. I think that this is well out of order. What do you think? I'd really appreciate any help/advice that anyone can offer as I really would like to put my plate on my van or at least get back ownership of it!

Hi Dale, Sorry to Hijack your thread, but it seems to be the only way to get hold of you. I still have not received the retention document for my number plate. I have now however received the letter from the dvla to say that you have changed the ownership of the car. Please let me know when to expect the retention document. Thanks, Ross.

Hi Dale, I've not had the retention document through for my number plate yet... What happened when you went to the DVLA? Ross.

All right Baz. Where? How much?

Any advice or hints/tips on removing and refitting my rear suspension?

The spax site rated them at 40mm drop. I've looked into the weitec shocks and they do have different ride height slots on the rears, in fact all their corrado rear shocks have the same part numbers! I've just got to work out how to take out the rear shocks to check/change them.

You mean the weitec 16V basic kit was lower than the VR6? Wouldn't this mean that the Spax VR6 springs that I now have fitted are over compressed in their natural position?

No idea about height adjustable spring platform, I had them fitted by a mate who is a mechanic. Do weitec do more than one basic kit for a 16V? I was concerned about the possibility of short shocks, does anyone else know if that's likely to be the case?

When I bought my VR6 around 18 months ago, I discovered that it had 16V Weitec dampers and springs fitted. So I got hold of some Spax VR6 springs which their website said were 40mm drop. I had these springs fitted on the Weitec 16V dampers. The ride did improve, and it seemed to sit a little higher. It might be my imagination, but it's almost as if the car has settled down quite a bit since this was done. However I have TT Competition alloys fitted with 205x40x17 tyres and they rub on any sort of dip or bump, especially at the rear. The rear does seem to ride lower than the front, with no gap between the tyres and arches. Surely this is lower than 40mm?! I used to have a 16V with a full Koni top adjustable kit which rode beautifully and the 17" alloys never rubbed at all. (I think they were a little narrower than the TT comps.) I'm sure that the 16V rode quite a bit higher. Will getting different springs solve my ride height issue, or will the 16V dampers be causing/contributing to the issue? I am on a tight budget, and so I'm looking for the cheapest solution.

A while ago I decided to change the springs on my VR6 as I discovered that the springs and shocks fitted to it were 16V ones. I was informed that the shocks would be fine, but the springs would be to soft as the VR6 is heavier. So I bought a set of SPAX VR6 lowering springs. They only do one set for a VR6 which are rated at 40mm drop. The part numbers on the springs matched those on the SPAX site. However, I'm convinced that the car is lower than 40mm dropped. It looks more like 60mm to me. I have 17" wheels with 205/40/17 tyres. The rear tyres are virtually up in the arch when the car is parked. The shocks are non adjustable Weitec, which I'm also pretty sure are rated at 40mm drop. Does anyone know whats going on? Can I raise the ride height without buying new shocks or springs? All I'm after is a genuine 40mm drop.

Right o, fingers crossed. Of course I havent noticed a lead removal tool in my car, but I havent really looked yet. My mechanic mate who has done lots of work on my car, said that he didnt think that it would be the plugs when I called him the other day, but he didnt really say why. I guess I'll have to give it a shot and hope.

I have a 1994 VR6 with a coilpack and no dizzy. I guess I should start with my local mechanic replacing the rocker cover gasket because I thought it was leaking oil. He thought it was more likely to be the oil filter and sorted this at the same time. But when I got it back it was running very rough, he said that he had noticed sparks around the coilpack, but didnt have time to sort it then. I had a look at it in the dark, and there were lots of sparks aound the socket closest to the top front of the car. Long story short: new leads and coilpack - still rough. My mechanic pointed out that the spark at that socket was much weaker, before the coilpack and after. I'm thinking plugs, but anyone got any other ideas?

Dont you have to have it on the dash so that it can link up with satellites? I would have thought that having it so low down might compromise the reception.

I've just had the rocker cover gasket replaced last weekend. It was running fine before. Picked up the car up on Monday and its misfiring all the time. Not intermittent at all. The spark is only on one socket on the coil pack but is all around that socket, it doesnt seem to stick to one place which would indicate a crack. Still the coilpack?

I am getting pretty bad sparking from the plug at the end of one of my HT Leads to the engine block (not the spark plug end). It's the lead that plugs into the top row of sockets on the coilpack closest to the front of the car. Anyway I'm pretty sure that this means I need new HT Leads. So...... are all the leads sold for VR6 engines then same? I'm, told that they are all the same length it's just that the sets sold for dizzy engines have one more lead. Right?

That sounds awesome!! Any chance of some pics of work so far?

Was just wondering if its possible and if anyone has ever seen it done? I know that the VAG way is 4wd, but I do love the handling characteristics of RWD. I was thinking that one could use bits from a 4WD system.

Right O. I'll give it a shot this weekend when its not bloody dark! Although, its not intermittent at all which I thought it would be if it were a dodgy connection. As speed 2 works fine does this mean that its not the thermal fuse?

Hopefully this is simple to fix. :? My heater fan works fine on settings 2 and 4, but 1 seems to do nothing at all and 3 blows very gently! They are the rotary style controls, its a March '94 VR6. Does anyone know why this might be?

Does anyone know how to tell one from the other and which one would fit my '04 VR6?

Bugger, I've found a cheap one on the web, but dont know if its the right one! Any ideas? BTW How much would I pay at the stealers?

Stealer cost & part number?

Why do Eurocarparts list 2 gaskets depending upon engine number?

Is the gasket the same for all VR6 engines? Mine is a March '94 VR6.