maff

Thanks for the info chaps, bit worried about the fire risk! And keyo thanks, that's what I was after;-)

I’m getting a wet passenger footwell and i’m sure it’s down to the seal on the heater blower in the scuttle. The door membrane is good as i’ve done this job lots of times before. One thing i did notice is i think someone had fitted a left hand drive cover which clips onto the bottom of the windscreen as it has a hole for a wiper arm so that might not be helping either? But need to get the square foam seal from somewhere? or do i just use silicone and glue it down cheers

When i removed the slave from the gearbox the push rod separated from the slave,(stayed inside the gearbox housing) and looking inside the slave it was leaking so the internal seals had failed by the looks of it. I cheated when bleeding the slave as used a power bleeder which connects to the battery, awesome bit of kit.. just waited until all the air bubbles were gone and cranked the bleed nipple back up. Clutch feels spot on now with the bite point where it should be as well.

Was gonna get a pal to sort the car but i thought i’d have a bash at fitting the slave myself and didn’t take me long at all, borrowed a power bleeder from my mechanic friend and she lives! Well chuffed with myself as pedal feels great and everything is back to normal, i’ll probably keep the master i bought for a just in case backup Couldn’t believe how easy it was

Had the slave delivered but also ordered a master and the hose form the reservoir, hopefully this will sort it

I’ve ordered a slave from heritage as the masters are for left hand drive cars but fit apparantly? hopefully the slave fixes it.. So i need to look under the clutch pedal for a bent clutch fork correct?

Since getting the vr6 back on the road the pedal has never felt normal, only having pressure halfway down and a low bite point, have managed for the last month though. Took it down to a pals garage last night and we put a power bleeder on the slave and master which brought the pedal back a bit but this morning i couldn’t select 1st? I’ve ordered a slave for £35 from heritage so hoping this fixes the problem as prices for the master are near £200 unless anyone has a link to a better buy? Also the pipe which goes from fluid reservoir to master doesn’t look the best but there are no leaks anywhere? We did try bleeding it by pumping the clutch pedal to start but it kept wanting to drop to the floor when doing up the bleed nipples?

Luckily I didn't have to do the heater matrix myself, had a good drive out today and it brought back memories, forgot how comfy and suited they are to munching up the miles as well. Was going to keep it off the road over winter but sod it im using it, I'll just have to keep on top of the cleaning

Update.. just insured the car for £150 fully comp which is good, taxed this morning and set out for a 50 mile trip with a tank full of v power. Car was faultless, no stalling to be seen and idle is super smooth, plus temps are all good. Oil got up to 114 max and water 85, oil sits at 98 when cruising. My guess is because it hadn't been used for over 4-5 years it needed a bit of use. Plus the coolant isn't escaping from anywhere around the expansion bottle, there might of been some left around the bottle from when it was topped up, but cleaned it up before I set off and not a sign of it anywhere So it's had a heater matrix, oil and filter, new fuel pump and fuel filter, new battery clamp, dipstick guide and loads more bits. Forgot the noise and the feel of these cars, couldn't stop smiling cruising down the m50 Stopped for a quick pic.. need some fog lights if anybody has any going? Untitled by Matthew cox, on Flickr

Cheers fendervg, i had a bmc on the last car and it sounded great, a bit boomy low down but love the look of them under the hood so might get another

Will try the relay thanks. My m3 coolant warms up to 80 degrees in probably 2-3 miles and the oil can take up to 10 miles to get to 80-90 degrees. I had the csl warm up lights on a previous car which took ages to go out so got to know when it was save to open her up, i always thought coolant warms up before the engine oil? The coolant temps are good on the dash on the vr, heaters are not super warm so might bleed the coolant again, plus it’s pushing a bit of coolant out of the expansion tank and a new cap solved it last time so i’ll check the cap again

Test drive went ok, but annoyingly stalled a few times coming to junctions and oil temp warmed up before water which is weird. idled nice when warm though. Power was strong, especially low down. Pal who did the work just returned a storm to a customer and he says it pulls harder than it. It hasn’t been run in 4 years so probably needs a good run and maybe i’ll have a look at the isvs for cleaning? It has a k&n filter on there at the mo which is very dirty so not sure whether to fit a bmc or something else

Ah the old halfrouds, i’ll check that out cheers

Anyone recently bought a corrado outdoor cover? looking on amazon and found one for around £60, not after anything too snazzy as it’s only for three months

The fuel pump is in two parts, the swirl pot and float for level sensor and top cap, the fuel pump then slides into the top of the unit which then fits into and up stems in the bottom of the tank. So if your seeing a fuel pump for 30-£50 then it’s just fuel pump itself, i bought the complete unit as when we removed it from the tank all the seals were perished. I’ve got videos of the pressure gauge teed into the fuel feed line which clearly shows how bad pressure was on the old pump dropping to 0.5 bar when revved and then when the new pump installed at idle sits at 3.5 bar and when revved increases to near 4 bar. Ill try to post up pics and part numbers when i can if anyone needs them. I got the complete unit from gsf in the end for £71 whereas others were coming in at £250-180, £130 etc, pays to shop around! Going for a spin in the car tonight, can’t wait.