russlench

Does anyone know of a Wiseco piston ring supplier in the UK? Looking for a set of rings part number: 8300xx many thanks Russ

OK aide, sounds good. PM me your paypal details if you have an account, I'll make sure there is enough to cover the fee. If you could get it to me by Friday that would be great as I've got next week off to swap the motors over (hopefully with a little more success).

OK aide, what would your advice be on the cam? I can't see any visible damage to the cam and I did only just torque it up (it has not been under any load). How much do you want for the pulley - I would pay for next day delivery as well. Cheers aide Russ

OK, here is where I admit I have been a complete idiot! I managed to put the pulley on the cam the wrong way (in facing out). Thanks aide for the lead on this, I though about it for most of the night and it started to make sense. So today, I came to swap around and this is what happened: I had obviously weakened the key when I torqued it up. It is at this point I ask the question: has anyone got a spare KR exhaust cam and pulley? Please? I am now worried that I may have weakened the keyway on the cam so would rather replace it. $$$ waiting!!!

OK, I may have just spotted something :confused4: , if you look at this pic there is nothing stamped on the face of the pulley on this pic it looks as though (although blurred) there is something stamped on the back of the pulley in between the guy's fingers looking at my first pic, the VW and Audi stamp is facing away from the engine :nuts: , as aide mentioned is it possible that the pulley fits both ways?

Thanks for that aide, I spoke to VW again today and they said the same about the recess. What do you think the issue could be then with the timing? When the mark on the front of the pulley line up with the cam cover and the mark on the back of the pulley line up with the cylinder head/cover gasket face the gear spots are the positions you see in the pics? Is it more likely that the gears are out or the pulley is out, the pulley cam only bolt up one way because of the keyway - what do you think could be wrong? Russ

I am struggling to get the timing right on a 16v KR head with standards KR cams. I've read through a couple of guides, one of them here: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=184663 , and others on this forum but have found no clear answer to the problem I have. When I installed the cams I made sure that the spots were at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock ()> Do both timing points have to be aligned? ie, gear spot at 3 and 9 o'clock *and* cam pulley to cover mark, or do you just make sure that the gear spots line up and make a new mark on the cam pulley? Any help with this would be appreciated Russ

I have recently completed a 16v rebuild and it is sat on the stand ready to go in next week. A friend of mine pointed something out that I hadn't considered as I had not seen anything on it in the manual: On the gearbox side of the crank where the flywheel bolts up there is a recess - I have a picture here just to illustrate, the recess that is central to the holes for the flywheel bolts. My question is; should there be a spigot bush or bearing the sits in this recess to support the input shaft on the gearbox? The crank in the engine I have built does not have anything in the end - though I received it second hand and had it re-ground. I cannot find anything in the manual about this, but it seems odd that it would run metal to metal. Does anyone have any experience with this or can help me out with some advice. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi, can anyone give any advice on how i can install the gudgeon pin retainer clips on wiseco pistons. The first few I have been able to do with brute thumb force and then popped it into the groove using a small flathead screwdriver. Is there a specific tool or a better technique for this? Any help would be appriciated.

Thanks for your relpies guys - I'm not keen on sending the pistons back as I waited 6 months for them to arrive. It is the nozzles that are fouling - I removed one, bent it slightly, checked that it hadn't affected the flow through the nozzle then put it back and checked clearance. That seemed to solve the problem, so I did the same for the other three. I didn't however anticipate that the new position would now foul on the conrod during piston installation, :censored:olocks! With the next piston I put in I ended up bending the nozzle pretty much all the way round so that it's direction would spray oil straight onto the sump plug - a bit of reverse engineering now required!

I've encountered a slight problem! Has anyone seen this before? I'm currently rebuilding a 9A, I have new oversize Wiseco Pistons and upon installing the first one noticed the piston fouling on the oil squirter jet. I've searched to see if anyone has experienced this before and if i could find a solution - not been able to find anything. Can anyone help me with this please?

Had the final bits to complete the head arrive on Friday - guides, and the rest of the cotters and retainers for the inlet side. Gave the chambers a light polish today and started pushing the new guides in.

Agreed, they do look good. Do you mean that you don't have #4 cylinder sensor, or that you just didn't use it?

Just had a look at their website, does this seem right? 92631D IGNITION LEAD SET CO 16V 4/89 > 32.50

Thanks davidwort

I'm currently gathering all the part I need for a 9A 16v rebuild - I have a question regarding HT leads. At the moment I have what looks to be original leads though the knock reference sensor is loose in the engine bay (the one that should be attached to the #4 cylinder lead). I've spotted some K1 racing leads on Ebay that say they are suitable for for 9A, but they are 10mm, which won't fit throught the reference sensor. So, my question is what are the implications of not using the sensor? - if it is required what are the best leads to use? - and what are the benefits of using the thicker core performance leads? Any help would be appreciated.

I ordered a single ABF retainer and pair of collets from VW and picked them up this morning. Below are a couple of pics showing the standards KR valve/retainer/collets (left) and the ABF valve/retainer/collets. The only real differences seems to be the amount of valve there is left above the retainer to contact the lifter and therefore the increased amount of valve from the underside of the retainer to the valve face. As the ABF uses the same lifters as the KR I can't see there being an issue with the reduced valve length up top. My logic would be that the increased length on the underside would mean that the springs are under less compression when the valves are closed, making it easier for the cam to open the valves as there is initially less resistance. Would like to hear any thoughts on this.

I have a spare alternator that I am in the process of polishing. I am however stuck trying to split the parts below: The innards seem to be screwed/bolted to the casing from the inside (white arrows)- unless this is just to enclose the bearing, and the casing can just be pressed away. I don't want to risk forcing it, so if anyone can shed any light on how I can separate these I would be grateful.

Managed to get a bit of time today to finish the inlet side of the head and make a start on the chamber.

Thanks for the info roo, I have done quite a lot of work in the seat/throat area, will try to post pics later. Any idea where I can get abf collets/retainers?

Update - got the collets from GSF today, they sent the 8mm 3 groove for the G60. I'm pretty sure I'll need 7mm VR6 collets - will try again in the morning to get hold of a pair. Unless anyone has a pair they could loan for research purposes?

I spoke to Vince this morning, he said essentially if the valves are the same dimensions it should be OK. I spotted on GSF that they stock 3 groove cotters - I'll order a pair and mock up the valve assembly to see if there is any noticable difference. I made a start on the exhaust side of the head yesterday - I'll try and get it as close to a mirror finish inside as possible: pics to follow.

Thanks davidwort! So - with ABF cotters and retainers I should be OK? Maybe one other problem that crossed my mind is: if the valve travels down far enough, could the lower of the three grooves impact on the stem seal? Or is there no danger of this?

I know what you mean! I too spent a lot of time staring at it and tried hard to resist the urge to continue or 'just take a little more off' running the risk of rendering it useless! Obviously I started by removing the valves, springs and associated peripherals (misplacing a lower valve spring locator in the process! - thanks to Iverrrado for the spare! :salute: ), then tentatively warmed the entire head in the oven to accomodate the removal of the valve guides. I made up a tool to act as a guide driver out of an old extended polishing mandrel (will post pics to explain this better!), this seemed to work quite well and the guides slid out relatively easily. New guides and inlet valves were ordered from GSF and have now arrived, though I do have a question about the valves. Unfortunately I didn't notice before I jumped in and started smoothing the lip (green arrow) that they were three groove (blue arrow) not single groove stems :brickwall: . I have read that the three groove stem valves are used in the ABF head, so, my question is; Can I use ABF collets with these valves and KR springs/retainers in the KR head? Below is a photos of the new valve (left) and the stock KR valve (right). I would rather use the new valves if possible as A) they are new, B) I've paid for them and C) they do seem to be a slightly better shape in terms of flow (red arrow). In terms of stem length, stem width and valve diameter they are identical. Any help with this would be appriciated!

I had a bit of time available this week so I decided to take a look at the cylinder head. I was fortunate enough when out in Australia a few years ago to stumble across a guy that built race engines for Beetles. I ended up staying with him for a few months and helping out on a few of the builds. I picked up the basics of head porting, so I thought I would try my luck on the KR head as I had managed to pick it up relatively cheap and decided that it was worth a go. I read through quite a lot of the threads about which head to use with the 16v, 9A with KR inlet, abf, complete KR - as I have the KR complete with cams it seems only right to use it! I have a few basic tools (and a few I've made to fit the purpose) and use of a small workshop, so on Saturday last week I set everything up and made a start. With the inlet side of the KR already being quite open I concentrated on just roughing it all up, removing the casting marks, knife edging the runner divider and blending the runner into the valve seat. Below is a before/after comparison of one of the inlet ports: