markmoog

I bought my 91 G60 with a non-working temp gauge. I replaced the temp sender but that didnt work, then used a multimeter to discover it had lost its earth, re-wired this little bit and it now works fine.

Thanks for the recommendations chaps. Will be having a crack at this over the weekend...

Do these work with allen key (round) bolt heads too? If so i'm straight to Machine Mart after work...

As I was getting my charger off the car last night I managed to round the head of one of the 4 large 6mm allen key bolts on the air box side of the charger as they were done up so bloody tightly by the previous owner :censored: Normally i'd just wedge in a bigger bit but there's no package space in the engine bay to use a hammer to wedge something in there - its the bottom of the 4 bolts that i'm trying to get at. It's so frustrating!! I've covered the bolt in plus gas and tried to use some mole grips to turn the bolt but with no joy. I really done want to have to lift the engine out the got 1 poxy bolt off it :( Has anyone else experienced this and how did they fix it? All advice is appreciated.

I've got a completely standard setup and, when I followed the guide, hit 1700 when redlined in third. I ran the test again the next day and it only got to 1650. Now, according to the guide: 1600 8.7 psi (Your charger needs new apex strips or big boost leak) 1800 11.6 psi (Great for stock pulley, Probably needs new apex strips if 68mm pulley) I should've been getting a reading of 1800. The idiot I bought the car from said the charger was bought at the start of the year and was a 'stage 1' charger which came with a different ECU (albeit in an identical case to a standard VW unit) which was supposed to have a slightly more aggressive fueling map. Anyway, he didnt have the reciept for this so I can't really find out any more about what did or didn't happen to my charger which is why i'm questioning the 1700 reading I got. I've searched and can't find anything referencing a 'stage 1' charger/rebuild and without the paperwork I haven't a clue how I can prove the charger's credentials? So, does the 1700 reading suggest my charger is in need of a rebuild before I do anything else or should I press on with what i've planned (68mm pulley & SNS chip, oil cooler, maybe FMIC) and leave the rebuild for now?

Ding :D One of the screws which attached this to the binnacle was loose, tightened it up again and at idle it was reading 450 8) Just got to take her for a decent run now to see how healthy the charger is... thanks for the help chaps.

OK, did this again (properly!) and got some even weirder results :( At idle and until about 3 minutes into my journey it just displayed 1000, then about every 3 mins it changed to displaying 1010, 1020, 1030 and 1040?? This clearly isn't right, anyone else experienced this?

Hey, I did the boost test to check what my standard-pullied charger was putting out and, after following the instructions on this forum, got figures around 880 at tickover which climbed to 5800-5850 when at the redline in 3rd & 4th. This is over twice what the guide says so i'm confused! I got it into the alternative MFA mode OK and got to setting '2', but the figures it showed as I applied and came off boost were well over what they should've been?? Could this be due to a duff manifold sensor? I really want to establish what state of repair my charger is in before I get a smaller pulley on it. Anyone experienced this before??