Benjo

I now have everything required :-)

Hi Rod, thanks for responding. I sourced a set of wheels & the front end stuff over the weekend, & now only need the rear beam/hubs/brakes/suspension struts. I'll wait to see if I can get it locally as I'm quite pressed for time at the moment, but will keep you in mind.

Hi, I have a mk2 golf shell & am looking for a complete mk3 suspension/steering/brake setup to bolt onto the shell so I can make it a roller again. From memory, the list of parts I need is: front wishbones + uprights + brakes (preferably 288mm setup)+ suspension struts + top mounts + pas rack both drive shafts rear beam + brakes + suspension struts + top mounts all mounting nuts/bolts would be useful too! I only need the bushes/shocks/brakes to be good enough to be able to move the car on, as I'll probably get new stuff when MoT time arrives. This is a long running project car though, so that probably won't be anytime soon! If you could give me a cash on collection or meet halfway price for all/any of the above I would appreciate it. I'm based in Littlehampton, west sussex & am prepared to drive within roughly a 50mile radius for the right parts Thanks, Ben

Any ideas what's happened to it since? I did a search for posts on your username, & didn't notice the date on your for sale advert. My best mate had a Corrado VR6 for a long time, & I spent a lot of time fixing the damn thing. It had a magnex exhaust, 6-2-1 stainless exhaust manifold, & modified airbox. Went really well, & definitely felt a little faster than my mk3 vr6. I would still go the G60 route instead of VR6 personally. Preferably one with a BBM charger or turbo conversion, as the G-Lader wasn't very well designed.

Hi Tom, I just saw the ad you posted of H711 YYU. You have no idea how sad it makes me to see it like it is after all the toil I put into it! If I wasn't still working on the mk2 & Quattro (slowly!), I'd buy it back right now. Instead of buying another 'rado, please just stick a g60 in her. I love that engine, & having owned both, I definitely prefer it to the vr6. I had it connected to a 4+E 020 box in my mk2 Jetta, & the ratios were great so bolt yours up to a mk3 tdi box. And yes, I am attempting to guilt-trip you into sticking with her. Out of all the cars I've owned, that is the only one I have sorely missed from the moment you drove off in her. Here's some more guilt-trip motivation to remind you how great it was when we parted company: Anyway, I hope you're well buddy, & congrats on the new munchkin on the way :-) Ben p.s. what happened to the gear stick gaiter?! Was mint when it left me!

If it's the rubber donut thing, chop it off!

you won't need to brace the shell if the inner sill is left intact, as that part of the shell is under tension. Just make sure there are no gaps between the new metal & the shell before you start welding, as this will also tweak the shell.

If you cut out both the inner + outer sill without welding in bracing before hand, the shell 'sag'. You prob won't notice this until after you've welded in the new sill & go to fit the door.

Yours will have internal oil galleries in that case. Are they monoblocks?

I spent a fair amount of time looking into which was the best tool for the job, & tbh, you have to spend twice that to get something that will work every time. Spending less is a false economy. Negative. T'is a Draper "Expert Brake Pipe Flaring Tool Kit" PN 49447: Whilst looking into it, this video clinched it for me: The Eastwood tool is a rebranded version of the Draper. Exactly the same in all other respects.

Cheers dude! It's a real bitch, unless you've got a decent tool. Absolutely impossible with the £30 sealey jobbies. My mk2 will be getting all stainless hardlines. Just got to finish building the firewall, rebuild the rear arches, paint the shell, fit the dash, put some suspension on, rewire the car etc first!

As long as you keep the replacement-part shopping list to a minimum (i.e. none if poss!), it's worthwhile doing it yourself.

having refurbished a set myself, all I can say is DON'T DAMAGE/LOSE ANYTHING! When I stripped mine down I cleverly (!) assumed parts cost/availability would be the same for any other vw caliper threw all 8 piston dust seals away before checking how much replacements were. I also had to cut the crossover pipe off to get a flank drive socket onto the seized tube nuts. In the time between stripping & getting the calipers back from powdercoating I also lost one lip seal (no idea how!). Anyway, the dust seals were £82ish (Ted Johnson Seat), the lip seal was £17 (Competition Braking Products, Seat don't sell 'em separately), decals werer £6 (decalsandstickers.co.uk), & Brembo don't sell crossover pipes at all, so I had to make my own. I Decided I wanted stainless pipes (cunifer looks gash), so then had to spend £150 on a flaring tool, £80 on 3m of tubing, & make a decent bending tool. So I guess what I'm saying is to go from this: to this: could well end up costing you an absolute fortune! In terms of finish, I split my calipers before powdercoating so I had better access to the piston bores for masking off (I used mocap 210 tape - your powdercoaters should be able to provide you with some), but you could split them, mask off & bolt back together before powdercoating if necessary. To avoid buggering the dust seals on removal, put a thick lump of wood in the caliper, & pressurise the feed line to the caliper with an air compressor. The lump of wood will prevent any pistons popping out & smashing into the opposite piston, & also ensure all pistons extend equally. Once extended 15-20mm, you should be able to pull them out manually through the dust seals. Once out, you should be able to (carefully!) pry out the dust seals from within the piston bore. If you do end up mullering up your crossovers, I'll happily make you up a set of nice new stainless ones for £25 delivered :salute: Good luck!

Whereabouts are you Dan? That's quite a big question you've asked, which is prob why nobody's responded. If you're serious about doing it yourself, the first thing you'll need is to sourc your replacement panels, as they'll show you where the relevant seams are - chances are some of these'll be hidden by paint, filler, seam sealant & body trim when on the car. To replace that much sheetmetal is quite a big job even if the new panels fit perfectly. You'll most likely be better off if you repair the existing panels. Post up some pics dude & let's take a look at it :D

Might be a stupid question, but have you: 1). Cleaned out the ISV recently 2). Checked all your vac hoses & connections 3). Checked all your inlet pipework for splits/leaks/loose bolts/failed gaskets? 4.) Checked that the idle switch on your tb is both working AND adjusted correctly? If your throttle cable is badly adjusted/old/sticky, it could be preventing the throttle arm from actuating the idle switch. Also, the throttle itself could be gummed up & sticking. These won't explain the MFA behaviour, but can explain the hunting at idle & stalling behaviour. The MFA thing sounds like you're loosing your permanent live feed to clocks/ecu on ignition-off. Have you checked this? I doubt both your problems are due to the isv alone - in my experience stuff like this is usually thanks to multiple issues rearing their ugly head all at the same time. Bit like a red herring I guess. Old VWs seem to have a habit of going out of their way to test you every now & then (i.e. p*ss you off!) Oh yeah, just to confirm, what engine is it? I assume PG G60..