kbtVR6

Hi Rodmax, that should do the job, can you pm me with payment details and I'll give you my address. chaos3oe, I will hold out for a little while for a perfect one, but if nothing appears in next week or so then I'll get back to you Many thanks to both of you for the quick response!

I'm in need of a plastic cover for the nearside tailgate hinge on the roofline, and also the spring for holding the fuel filler door flap closed. Can anybody help? This will finish off getting the car to near concourse..... Cheers!

Hi, I am looking for the black plastic tailgate hinge covers, and also the fuel filler door with hinge spring. Do you have them available by any chance?

I`m looking for tailgate hinge plastic covers for the roof, and also fuel filler door with hinge and spring if you have them.

The 911 is very hard on the road, but just point and squirt, acceleration is ballistic in comparison and with 4wd and 295 rubber on the rear it sticks like glue, making you feel a better driver than you probably are...... the C has a slightly better sound track as I have the CDA airbox and so gives a better smile in that respect, the 911 is very quiet in comparison (although both exhausts are quiet) I have a Mk2 8v golf with Koni's as well and that is the more chuckable of all, and I use that most as the 911 and the C are both totally mint and I am just paranoid about getting a mark on them. I only use the 911 for longer journeys and intend the C to be used as a medium range transport in good weather................. I must say, the deal I got with Admiral multicar policy for above plus a HiLux pickup is more than reasonable at around £900 for the lot, limited to 3k miles on each, IAM member and 15 years NCB, no points ever helps though. As for the above request from Destructiv for the A3 door handles photo, it is only the mechanism and not the handles so there is nothing visible from the outside, I haven't had a look inside the door to see them but the bill is £145 from Venom and they feel good as I know my brother had issues with his delocked passat ones on his 16v (now belongs to Anne T)

And finally, my two babies together, only 6 cylinders need apply.............. Will try for a better photo tomorrow in the daylight!

So having purchased the car in great condition, I decided to go about finishing off the project. Front end removed for access, radiator removed and noticed bottom core tube had swelled so that has been replaced (no longer available from VW, so sourced quality new Hella/Beru unit) Also found small leak from sealing face of thermostat housing and cylinder head, this was being caused by corrosion where the seal ring fits and the outlet hose stub pipe had also been broken for some time looking at it. Pitting was filled and smoothed and new housing fitted with new seals all round including sensors. Coolant system was horrible brown with sludge in tank and so flushed and cleaned whole system. Refilled with G12++ on completion. Also noticed the Auxiliary cooling pump was not running at all, so new one fitted. Poly ribbed drive belt replaced as it was showing signs of cracking. Power steering fluid was looking a bit cloudy so also replaced with a new charge of CHF 11S. Radiator metal shroud was looking a bit tired so it was stripped back to metal and primed and sprayed. The fan plastic surrounds were broken and were replaced. Front bumper bar stripped and repainted. Engine block painted and a week or so spent cleaning round in the engine bay. Lighting for fan controls fixed. Everything on the car now works with the exception of the passenger heated seat. There is no click from the relay behind the back left door card so I suspect something on the control circuit or the relay is goosed. Anyway, here are some before and after photo's........

So today I finally completed the project I purchased last month. Admittedly the bulk of the work and expense had been done by the prior owner before he sold it, but the engine bay was not really up to the standard of the rest of the car. His work on the car included: Stub axles, rear axle, rear anti roll bar, calipers and carriers, petrol tank straps, front subframe, front anti roll bar all blasted and powder coated: New bottom arms: Powerflex Polybushed all round: New Magnex SS Exhaust from cat back: New windscreen: Petrol tank out and cleaned, new pump and filter, Wheels refurbed and new tyres: New handbrake cables: Braided SS brake hoses: New Black diamond discs with predator pads: New brake backing plates: New ABS sensors: New brake bias valve and pipes: FK top adjustable Konigsport coilovers: 4 wheel alignment: Rieger front grill, CDA Airbox: Uprated headlight loom: New foglights: Audi A3 door mechanisms: Meta total closure alarm: New front splitter: New battery: Full glass out respray in Aqua blue pearl with extra pearl (lightened colour) All parts used were genuine VW where available and new bolts used.

Yes, I think the coolant was to blame, it was horrible brown colour with loads of sludge around. That was the reason I though I'd better have a look around the system. Have flushed through everywhere thoroughly. Replacing it with G12++. I have also fitted a new radiator today as the bottom tube was severely ovalated, although overall in good condition this car is a keeper and has to be 100% reliable (well as far as a '95 car can be expected!) Everything else on the car has been replaced pretty much, just engine needed seeing to as previous owner ran out of enthusiasm after 4 years rebuild and new house/wife etc and £10k spent. Might put a build thread and photo's up sometime, should be complete this week.......... Already sanded down a little further and checked perfectly flat, and did put a smearing of silicone on the face with all new seals and housing. Ran fine with no sign of leaks now

I don't know if anybody else has encountered this issue of if you can make it out on the following photo's, but just after I bought the car I noticed a small water leak and couldn't trace it's source (it was very small) While checking the thermostat housing I noticed that there was significant corrosion pitting on the sealing face of the cylinder head, up to about 1mm in places. Also the thermostat housing had obviously been off at some point and the sealing face had been filled up with silicone sealant to try and overcome this problem (not by me you understand!) The solution that has worked for me is to clean out the pitting and thoroughly degrease, and then fill with epoxy (although Devcon aluminium chemical metal would be ideal, just didn't have some to hand) and allow to harden. Then gradually pare back the high spots with a Stanley blade and finally lightly sand the whole area. A new housing has been fitted with new seals as the old one was also damaged and split round the inner lip for the seal. All seems good with no sign of any leakage.

I know you said you've had the bearings done, but once my brother took his 16v in for rear bearings and the useless garage that did it damaged one when they were putting it in. After a few hundred miles it had worn so badly the wheel was visibly loose. They have to be put in carefully and almost clinically clean as any crap in them will destroy them in no time. And that was a well known chain where he thought they wouldn't fleece him. They ended up having to replace many damaged parts after admitting it was their fault, but he was lucky it didn't cause an accident. Anyway, the fact that it is a droning noise suggests it is on rotating machinery, and if it changes with road speed as opposed to engine rpm then it is most likely wheels....(or drive shaft bearings, uh oh...) Front ones normally sound worse when cornering and the wheel in question is under more load. Hope this helps........

I have to say I'm with Dox on this one, and I couldn't put it better in terms of his explanation, there should be no difference in turning the flywheel via the motor or the drive shaft. When starting from cold with all the oil drained back to sump then hydraulic tensioners would not have oil pressure until a second or two after the engine starts.Normally 2nd gear is best for bumping. (although I have never had to try it on my VR, only MK2 Golf) I have heard rumours about not bump starting cars with catalytic converters though. Something to do with unburned fuel reaching the cat and then overheating when it eventually does fire up. Not sure how true that is though..............could be b0110ck5. ---------- Post added at 10:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:58 PM ---------- Ok, done a little more research on the cat issue. I believe it should be ok as long as you have not been turning the engine over on the starter repeatedly without it firing as the above is true regarding the unburned fuel. However you should be ok as you have not been doing this. As for the chain issue, still none the wiser.

You are kidding me! I am Deputy Chief Engineer on the QM2, I will be back on board on the 4th Dec! Look out for me. If you PM me I will give you my details.

Cleaned up front crossmembers and painted sprayed primer on radiator fans cowling. painted engine plastic cover 'VW' blue and 'VR6-DOHC' red.

Coullstar - 93 Satin Silver VR6 Chris - 94 Green 24v Kirade - 92(?) Red VR6 Roddy - 94(?) Storm VR6 Caol - 93 Red VRT Skid - 91 Red G60 + 94 Red VR6 Dubster - 91 Grey G60 Pau1 - Oak Green VR6 BILLCOR - 94 Aqua Blue 24v corrado wannabe- 94 Aqua Blue Pearl 2.0 16v craigowl - 95 VR6 Storm Goldie - 94 Satin Silver VR6 jamiehamy - '93 Flash Pink VR6- with the odd red bit easypops - Twilight Violet VR6 dalhalvaig - Blue VR6 Emu - 94 Blackberry VR6 Ray - 16v Wullie - 90 White 16v kbtVR6 - 95 Aqua blue pearl (with extra pearl) VR6