Pastymuncher
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0 NeutralAbout Pastymuncher
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Rank
Newbie
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Location
Godalming, Surrey
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Interests
Cars, Mountain Biking, Wife, Son, Beer, Cake.
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Occupation
Lawyer
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I got 4 new bbs ones when I had my solitudes refurbished about 4 years ago. £9 :shock: each from the stealers.
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I doubt whether any case law will give a definitive answer in terms of distance, the cases will most likely just set out the factors to be taken into account - what is "reasonable" will depend on the circs and hence be decided on a case by case basis. Driving 150 miles from the point of sale to an pre-booked MOT centre near home and/or the repair centre may be reasonable, whereas driving 150 miles to an MOT centre, bypassing others, just because your brother-in-law runs it and always makes a nice cuppa while you wait is probably stretching it. Unless there is an obvious safety issue with the car and provided you are insured, I would just drive it - every mile nearer Slough you get before you are stopped , the more "reasonable" the distance left to go gets! Erm....
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My aux water pump has been weeping for the last 4 years. As its not a large leak (no water on the floor, coolant levels fine between top ups at service, just a tell-tale green corrosion streak on the unit) I just leave it. Each time it's serviced the dealers put it on the watch list and reccomend leaving it till next time. Now I've said that next time I start it up I'll be pissing G12 through the front grille.
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Nearly - I don't think he's a member here but that was my brother's black VR. Standard save for Eibachs/Konis and a footwell of parking tickets (he lives up Smoke). David
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Many thanks MysticBlueStorm, I'll get to it ASAP (as soon as I remember what I did with the replacement clip). David
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MysticBlueStorm, I have exactly the same problem - I got the clip from VW for about a quid but have yet to get round to fitting it. Any advice on how best to fit it would be appreciated, if you do yours first. If I get round to doing mine first, you can have my 2p worth (I'd assumed you had to withdraw the bowden cable through the bulkhead, but that's as far as I got as the Simpsons was on). David
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Hello all, I posted a question a while ago asking for a diagram of the interior bonnet release lever and how it fits to the bowden cable, as my lever has gone all slack and floppy (happens to all of us eventually). I've now had a look and it would appear that a small metal clip has snapped which attaches to the cable and pushes onto the bracket holding the lever onto the footwell. This clip acts to retain the cable outer while allowing the lever to draw the inner through and hopefully release the bonnet. I know some people have made their own bracket, but I've ordered a new clip (£1) and was looking at how its fitted. It looks like the clip will not come off the end of the cable that fits to the lever (which would defeat the object) so I wonder if the cable has to be withdrawn into the engine bay or if some slack has to somehow be put into the cable to allow the clip to the fitted. Anyone have any idea what I'm on about and experience of fitting this? It has all the hallmarks of the classic "it looks like it should be easy but its now been 4 hours upside-down in the footwell and I can't feel my legs " type of job. Please convince me I'm wrong. Thanks David
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Hello all, Indoor swimming pool in footwell fixed, missing speaker grill sourced, electric window now working - wey-hey! Aw bums, my bonnet release lever (driver's footwell) is now bust. The lever flops around and there is no spring tension on it keeping it in the normal "retracted" position. From looking at it, it looks like the inner cable is still attached to the lever, but the outer cable is no longer fixed to the lever bracket (I'm assuming the outer stays fixed so that the lever has something to brace against when pulling the inner cable through, just like a brake/gear cable on a bike). The cable outer looks like it should be fixed to the lever bracket using a small metal clip and this looks like it has snapped, but I'm not sure how its supposed to look when its not buggered. Has anyone got the relevant parts diagram that could show me how it goes back together? Thanks in advance, David
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HiAsAKite, Sanj, I don't yet know what the problem is I'm afraid - I've not yet got round to removing the door membrane and having a look inside. Just realised it was early December when I took the door card off - all I can say in my defence is I've been a bit busy! As you can guess, I don't use the car that much at the moment. Once I've finished re-grouting the bathroom, I'll put a voltmeter across the window motor just to check, but as Sanj says, I've a feeling its mechanical too. First one to sort it posts the answer! Cheers, David PS - HiAsAKite - just noticed you're in Guildford - whereabouts? I'm down in sunny Godalming.
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Don't know about the complete key fobs, but they sold me the replacement batteries for mine which are quite hard to get so I'd assume they do the whole unit too. Then they'll probably want to charge you for synchronising it with your alarm unit, or something, depending on whether its the master or slave unit (I'm making this bit up, but I always assume the worst). David
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Dave - I think you'll find that bumper is a prototype of Zarman's (of Dubdesign Industries) intended design, rather than a Reiger product. There is a long thread about its appearance, etc on the vortex forum somewhere. Also offers an explanation of why its lop-sided. David
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Cheers Henny, that's what I needed to know. David
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No problem Steve - I have a circuit tester at the ready, so off comes the membrane. Horrible feeling its a mechanical problem though, as there are some very faint scratches on the glass too, so I reckon the regulator is not happy. David
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Thanks Steve, but do you know if there is a cross-over already there and if so, where ? I only ask as I'll be doing the job in installments (doors, then dash) and want to know if I need to wack the crossover in from the start (and/or whether there is an old one to remove). Thanks, David
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Cheers Steve, I've no idea, but I've read some people suggesting that a fault in the membrane can lead to leaks - see several posts in this thread, for example: http://corrado.atx-hosting.co.uk/viewto ... highlight= As I say, my membrane is in perfect condition and I have a dry car - I am worried about disturbing this sitiuation unless I really need to in the light of such posts. Thanks for the advice on the black stuff though, which is indeed still sticky (there is some on the teatowel in the kitchen - shhhh!) - do you know if you can you buy it, just in case? David