Ed'Rado

Iain, I am trying to find out if you still have the charger advertised on here for sale still, can not reply to your advery for some reason. Anyway, I have money waiting so let me know either way on [email protected]

I tried the above and it helped a little. Still had issue's, felt like it was stiff to move. Spoke to a mate at VW and he said possibly the cables were old and worn. So before replacing I decided to disconnect and feel how free they were. All OK, but I did notice that the mechanism on top of the gearbox where the cables connect to was stiff. So I stripped the right hand cable (as you look at the mechanism from the front of the car, remember to mark for rebuilding later) there is a 13mm nut on top to hold the weight, then another 13mm bolt/stud arrangment (beware there is a 14mm square nut underneath that sits in a channel so it can be loosened without use of a spanner, but to remove it I used a 14mm open ender. Once I removed it I cleaned the old grease from inside the the end of the cable and also from the 13mm bolt/stud arrangment where the cable connects. Next I loosened a 10mm lock nut (RHS) and 15mm bolt (LHS) that is located at the back of the mech horizontally fitted, it is part of the first cable linkage, remove this cable by pulling out the split pin. The movement up and down of this part should be free and spring back into a central location, mine did not do this. However, after loosening it and tapping the 10mm nut to the left with a hammer and chisel (because it is hard to get to!) it sprung back into the central position and did this every time I moved it. I think someone may have overtightened this nut and bolt in the past causing it clamp itself? Now the car just glides into gear, I am very pleased with how it works. Hope it helps Ed.

Yeah man the difference when I used the leather cleaner on the leather and the plastics. They all came up so much better, furniture clinic is very good. I used a hard garden brush, carpet cleaner and a power washer to clean my carpet up and it was amazing as well. All gone well just need to colour match the dodgey leather bits. You have made it look so fresh again, you have done well. Hopefully mine will go as well. Ed

Hello mate, car looks ace. I bought a cream interior for my G60 a few months ago. I used furniture clinic and was really impressed by their products as well. Was thinking about getting the kit to respray the seats as the bolsters on mine have been well used. Just wondered if you could tell me what filler you used light or heavy also is the colour a good match to the original? The thing is my rear seats, cards and door cards have all cleaned up so well and I want something that matches them, otherwise might just send a headrest off. For the vinyl spraying I used a company call NWSR Ltd, the colour wasn't the same unfortunately but, they are sending me more after I sent them a better colour match (Bigger piece). I am spraying the dash to match, the finish is superb and it is out of a spray can!! Ed (G 5XTY)

Hope this helps someone, took me ages to find what I wanted and this is the second time Ive written this now as I lost it!! Bugger.. Dont press back browser. Mirror switch Thanks to this topic written by seven five: viewtopic.php?f=19&t=48955&p=703693&hilit=vr6+wiring+diagram#p703693 I found the wiring I needed, but when I did the wiring in my car a '92 G60 (Late bumpers, bonnet...) there was an issue, when I pressed 'L' the right mirror moved and vice versa. The wiring I finally used which got rid of this problem: Eary - Late 1 BN - BN 2 BK - BL 3 BL/RD - BK 4 BL - BK/WH 5 BK/YL - BK/YL & BK/BL 6 WH - WH BK/BL - illumination for switch, permanently on. Seven five's wiring said to connect 3 (early) to 4 (late) and 4 (early) to 3 (late), this caused the problem I described above. Maybe right for some cars. The next is thanks to seven five The mirrors connect to the door looms via two 3 pin connectors, one black and one white. I found that the black one carries power to the motors and you can reverse the connections here so that the mirrors work correctly, rather than taking apart the mirrors. You need to take off the door cards to find these connectors, on my car they were near the electric window motor. On my car: The drivers door, swap the blue and black wires on the black plug, i.e. originally blue goes to blue and black goes to black, so connect blue to black, and black to blue. This'll make perfect sense when you see the plug. On the passenger door. connect the black wire (door loom) to the red wire on the mirror loom and the green wire to the black. On both doors the leave the third connection (brown on drivers, brown and brown/white on passenger). Electric windows is easy, same number of wires and the same colours so just connect the colours together. Hope this helps someone Ed