samwell

Sorry i forgot to mention that the oil level is fine. It doesnt seemed to have dropped anyway. there is no white emulsion under the cap etc etc . The car is now in the capable (hopefully) hands of a mechanic. If it turns out to be something that is worthy of a post I will put something up.

Stanbates . PM sent :-) Will take it for a pressure test tommorow as well. Cheers guys

The light comes on after i have set off. It just steadily flashes? I will check the wiring tomorrow. I was asking about the oil pump as my mate said it was on its way out when he last did some work on the car. I could do with what the best and worst this could be, and also how likely. Just so i dont get my wallet lightened unnecessarily by a dodgy garage. :-)

cheers :-) Could it be the oil pump then?. And is this a case of i shouldnt drive the car??

I have a Hreg VR6 with a flashing oil temperature light on the dash. (I dont have a manual with my car so I assume thats what it is known as) The last time it was on it was due to the water slowly seeping from my radiator. Which has only just been replaced so i dont think it could be this again. The water levels are ok and I cant see any (obvious) leaks. It doesnt come on straight away but only after a minute or 2 of driving. What are the possible causes of this?? Sorry if this is an obvious question :-)

Nice one. I had been trying to get it on from the other side as i could see a lip that seemed the right size, with the window down, and with my own fair hands. Am going to go give it a go now. LOL Cheers

I have just purchased a 45pound strip of rubber that runs where the glass meets the door. ( the bit that stops the water getting in) And for the life of me i cant get the thing to stay on. I can get it sat in the right place but everytime I put the window back up again It brings the rubber with it. Is there a secret method I dont know about? Could it be the wrong part number, would i have to take the glass out to get it to fit it properly?? Am i a ham fisted ignoramus? Or is there a thread on this somewhere that i cant find. Any help appreciated. Cheers

Cheers Guys. I cant really tell u where the car is as i might get people in trouble. However u guys at German and Swedish might have been shown it a few times. I will be up in leeds this weekend so I will be contacting some of you nearer that time. Thanks again. The car is apprently running at 7000 rpm now which is an improvement but its still poppin fuses.

My mate has lent me a van to get home in. But my car has had to remain behind in Leeds. So I still need some recommended garages/or sparkies. Thanks in advance :afro:

I wasw up there recently, grey corrado, usually followed by a cloud of smoke :D

:lol: LOL My C broke down a week ago and Ive been stuk in Leeds for over a week. I have had an interesting time getting my car fixed http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12838 I need to find a competent garage or member to have a look at the electrics asap as I need to get bak home at some stage of my life. :-P Any help appreciated and cold hard cash waiting for any help given. Cheers A brief summary is as follows There appears tp be no live power feed to the ecu? Wiring beyond the bulkhead being different colours to that in the engine bay and fuse board are making life no easier! The car is now running due to a fused wire, as a bypass to the ecu from the coil. At the moment this is the only reason the car is running, but three times since this fuse has blown and the car has then stopped running. There is also a problem with the engine shutting off at 5000rpm with a missfire, not sure if this is due to electric load on the wire used or leads/plugs breaking down?

Right. More news. This is the official version. The problems on taking the car to the 2nd garage are as follows. There appears tp be no live power feed to the ecu? Wiring beyond the bulkhead being different colours to that in the engine bay and fuse board are making life no easier! The car is now running due to a fused wire, as a bypass to the ecu from the coil. At the moment this is the only reason the car is running, but three times since this fuse has blown and the car has then stopped running. There is also a problem with the engine shutting off at 5000rpm with a missfire, not sure if this is due to electric load on the wire used or leads/plugs breaking down? Mike Edwards - If I had left the car where it was it wouldve have been torched within the hour, or on bricks :wink: Bigpants Baby. If u can do the conversion or know anyone who cab for the right money let me know. Am hard up at the mo and only have a couple of grand to spend

Dont know where to start.......I had better start from the top (bear with me) Got a 1.8 16v by the way. I took my car to a garage approx one month ago with a duff slave cylinder. On retrieval of the car I I found that the car had no Power steering belt OR fan belt. I had no choice but to drive the car for a short distance home, the result being it overheated. I complained to the garage on mon and explained that there where no belts. They denied all knowledge and said it was not there fault. The long and short of it was that they fitted new belts and then happily informed me that the cylinder head was most likely damaged due to overheating. The car now refused to vent properly and would only stay cool if they messed around with the fan switch. (important for later) They also informed me that the heaters continually blow cold air (venting?) This was the state my car was in prior to fri Anyway onto the current problem On the way to leeds last fri my car dies. It was turning over but not firing up. The electrics did not fail or dim etc the car simply stopped. Rac man informed me he thought it was ignition amplifier, and was towed to a local garage. I informed them of what was suspected and asked them to check first. Dont know what happened in the mean time but a new dizzy and something else were fitted (£200s worth) And the problem was still not fixed. A sparky was called in and tried to fix the problem (£150) He kind of did fix the problem after a week of no car, but the car will not rev over 5000 and its popping fuses repeatedly. I am then informed that Im best of scrapping the car as its doomed. There is apparent corrosion to the fuseboard and other stuff. Im not scrapping my car, and was just about to get a vr6 conversion. Has anyone any idea whats going on here cos i have no clue. All I know is im shelling out for work that is not fixing my car. Could it be my alarm/immob, ignition switch or some other common problem or the fact that the last garage were messing round with the fan. Help urgently required on this as Im not a happy bunny. :(

I can e-mail you the power and torque plots if interested (my 1.8 with 2.0 bottom end and gas flowed head) Yes please and also could you recommend anyone to do the work as well and how much will it all cost as I dont have the time or knowledge to do this type of work . Im in stoke but dont mind travelling for a good job. Thanks guys all info appreciated.

ps how much would the fettling cost. And what do u reccomend getting done