kits550

VR6 | Moonlight Blue Pearl | Swindon Price: £1300 Description: Ok all, after 4 years of ownership, and a 350mile weekly commute, the time has come to sell the 'raddo. The car is a 1994 M plate, Moonlight blue with just under 180k on the clock. Mostly standard but does have air filter (on car at purchase), hand polished TT comps and lowered on coilovers. Make unknown. Good points: Overall bodywork condition is good. With just a scrape on the front bumper (source unknown). Cloth interior is also in top condition, no sagging or worn bolsters. Back seat has small blim burn, but I dont smoke, so it wasn't me. Steering wheel, gearknob and very top of doorcards show proof of age. All electrics work, wing mirrors, tilt and slide, windows, RCL, (two keys), dash lights, MAF, all works fine. Spoiler pops at 60mph, drops at 10mph. Car comes with sony bluetooth headunit, Vibe amp/sub/speakers and x-overs. Nothing shattering but does the job. Can dig out make but guess HU to be around 4 years old. Car comes with all receipts and MOTs from my ownership, and years prior to that. In the time I've had her, I've replaced the heater matrix, knock sensor, ABS sensors, fuel sender / pump, aux pump and wiring and thermostat along with a few cooling pipes at the time. I think I did the rear brakes when I did the ABS sensors too. I also did the wiper conversion to run lupo (or polo) arms and blades. That's all that's been needed apart from oil and filter. Bad points. No tax or test as car has been parked on my drive since I started my new job nearly a year back. While the car has never struggled to get an MOT, the ABS light had started to come on again. If it's on, the brakes are fine, if it goes out, the brakes / abs judders. Believe this to be a pump issue as ECU was looked over and was fine. Fault codes had been cleared and system flushed but light issue returned. Heater, the bearings are going so it squeals from time to time, also the heater dial sticks...no surprise there. There is a scrape along the front bumper that needs to be cleaned up. Also there's a small 'hill' on the bonnet where the engine mount popped and the engine struck the bonnet. Again, prior to my ownership, but I spied reciepts of a replacement mount with the history. Off the top of my head, that's all I can think off. I am looking at moving closer to work in the next 6 weeks so this is the other reason I need to sell her. Any questions about anything, please get in touch. *Someone asked so thought I would add:* 1) I have MOTs and reciepts from 2001 on. Mosly from VW specialists. Also have the VW service schedue stamped from day 1 to 2005 (145k miles) 2) I'm owner number 7, number 6 was my mate who had it for a year or so before I took posession. 3) (Headgasket / chains info) I have nothing showing in my history that either of these have been done. 4) G/box and clutch have never missed a beat. 5) Found the RR print out from 2007 (Storm Developments) showing 201bhp at the fly. MOT shows milage to be around 156k at this point. 5)If anyone wants any more pics, interior, exterior, front scrape, please send me PM with email address. *Price dropped as moving sooner than thought. I am open to sensible offers as I'd rather not have to scrap the car*

Cheers Cazza. Just checked the print out and it was 180bhp and 167lbft. So bit down but overall, given the mileage, I still dont think it's too bad.

Just got hold of a 5amp fuse (for the control box) and tried again, however when the temp gauge got to around 85-90deg (in a short space of time), the connector on top of the aux water pump, the one you cant quite see as it's under the HT lead shroud, started smoking. I killed the engine at this point as I'm now not sure what the next step is. I still couldn't hear the pump after the ignition had been switched off. Do these pumps seize as it were?

180bhp, standard with 180k miles on the clock, I thought that was alright! What are they meant to be standard?

Cheers guys. Yeah she's not too bad, few bumps and scrapes, mostly front bumper but aside from that, and needing a good wash now and again, she looks alright. Been umming and ahhing about doing something a little different with the wheels, in respect to colour, but need to sort the current 'niggles', putting it politely. All in good time I'm sure.

Hi guys, newbie to the forum so here's a few quick pics of my VR. I think I'd spent about 6-7hours in total getting those rims that shiny in the second pic! Scrub up well though me thinks. Car is mostly standard 180k M reg. Haven't really done anything to her in the 3 years I've owned her, just trying to keep her going and replacing the odd bit here and there. Amazingly was RR'd with 180bhp showing just after I took ownership. Probably done less than 6k miles since then! Would love to do some bits but with two kids and a Mk1 G60, well, the VR is a little down the pecking order I'm afraid. [ATTACH]45093[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]45092[/ATTACH]

Cheers all. And yeah, I've got a few pics which I'll get around to adding.

[ATTACH]45091[/ATTACH] Ok, pic attached. The part in question is the black connector just above the fan mount in the picture. You can see it is attached to some sort of fixing bracket. The sheared wire goes off to the left and down, although the sheared bit is just out of shot. The wire behind and to the left is the knock sensor cable.

Cheers guys, that sorts two things out (the ambient temp sensor never crossed my mind!). Can I upload pics direct from my comp or do I need to link them in from somewhere, photobucket or what have you?

Trying to sort my cooling issue and I've found two wires and something else of which I've no idea what they do, where they go, etc. Looking at the front of the car, left side, in the engine support just behind the headlight wires, is a black cylindrical container with a black hose and a clear hose going into it. These hoses run back along the suspension strut then I couldn't see exactly where they went. There's no other wires. It sits in it's own little area and can also be seen from under the car, WTF is it? In the same area, I have found a blue connector plug, male and female connected but the male (I think, I couldn't pull it apart) is connected to nothing. I traced the wire back and it runs along the inner wing, by the air filter, it has two thin wires which then go into a single black cover and the unconnected end has three small protrusions, looks like an aeroplane propellor from face on. Technical description I know. Last wire is down by the fan. It's a thick black wire, that splices into the loom where the knock sensor wiring goes. The M/F connector plug sits in a small holding bracket which currently hangs loose. This wire has been sheared (possibly by the fan?) but I couldn't find another sheared black wire. Any ideas on any of these?

Hi all, as per the title, I've got a slight cooling issue. In the three years I've own my C VR, water temp has never been a problem. Last Friday, I did a duelly run, about 30 miles distance, around 75mph, on my way to an interview. All was fine till I got to the place, and clunked something going over the speed bump, at a speed where I almost didn't reach the top of the bump, they were harsh! Water level light starts flashing, I notice temp is now creeping towards 110c but luckily, I'm 20seconds away from parking. Kill the engine and notice no over-run on the fan. Luckily, no water spraying from any hoses! Ace the interview (yes, I was offered the job) and two hours later I'm on a 60-65mph drive back with the temp needle just below the 110c mark most of the way. Today has been the first chance to look at it and I've looked around on this forum and it's been pretty helpful. So here's what I've done: Given it happened after the speedbump clunk, I've checked the obvious wires, but all in all they are where they should be. However, I have another thread lined up regarding a few 'extra wires'... Checked fuses under the dash, all fine. Checked the rad sender switch by bridging the contacts. Stage one fan works, stage two doesn't. Checked the black thermoswitch and stage three works, god is it noisy though!! I then checked the rad control box (the one in front of the coolant res). The 5amp fuse was cooked, the 20amp fine and the 50amp, although fine, is a little furred at one end. With no replacement 5amp, I've been doing checks with a 10amp. Last check was on the yellow thermoswitch, the over-run check. Now although I got the fans to kick in, I wasn't sure if the aux water pump was making a noise, and just ignition on, off, produces no noise. The fan over run is something I've been used to so it's odd it now no longer works. The fans don't kick in where they should, and only stage one for less than a minute, high up the temp scale, so here are my questions. Would the 10amp fuse make a big difference in any of the tests I've done? What should I be looking at to check why stage two fan speed isn't working? Should the aux pump be obviously noticable when running? I really couldn't hear it over the fan when I bridged the connections on the yellow thermo switch. Have I missed anything? I've not got a volt meter so can't check any voltages yet. Cheers in advance for the help guys.

Hi all. New to the forum so just thought I'd stick my head in and introduce myself before I start hitting the tech sections. I own a dark blue (Moonli. according to the sticker in the engine bay!) M plate VR, nigh on 180k but for the most part, goes well. I've had her three years and had a few issues so thought I'd get on a forum and get some help. For anyone in the area, and I do see a few rado's about, I'm running on polished TT comps, give us a thumbs up.:thumbleft: Right, time to hit the problems section...