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Awesome, thanks for the info, it just didn't look quite right so I wanted to make sure it was normal. And, since I've not installed coils before, I wanted to make sure I didn't have something bass-ackwards ;) Since it's already seated and back on the floor I'll order myself some new bushings and bearings and replace them when they come.

I've just gotten my front Koni coils installed tonight, and I have a bit of an issue that this post seems to have hit on, it seems like there's a gap between the upper strut cap / mount (the "concave plate"), I'm guessing that maybe the rubber bushings are buggered and I should replace them with new ones? It's a '93 with 90K on the clock, so I'm thinking it may just be time for new bushings -- but I'd like to know for sure.

Pulling the MAF plug causes it to practically die while idling. I guess I'll just have to wait till the mechanic is in on Monday and see if his code reader can't help me out. ;)

Yeah, I'm gonna see if the local VW parts place doesn't have the proper equipment. Also of note is that last week I had idle problems, cleaned out the ISV and then took it for a drive. The idle problemd were fixed, but when it got to around 2500-3000, it would buck and freak out until I let off the throttle (I switched gears each time it happened). I reset the ECU and then it seemed to go away (though I didn't have the check engine light at that time). Shortly after that the distributor rotor exploded... sigh :) Is the cam sensor located on the distributor? Also, does anyone know if when the check engine light comes on if the ECU shifts into "stupid mode" so you can get to a mechanic / fix it? It's a '92 VR6 (so, OBD-I?)...

Hey everyone, I have a small problem. My check engine light is always on when I'm driving, and I wonder if it's not the MAF sensor. Here are the symptoms: * When I reset the ECU, (which I tried to see if I could get the light to go away), the engine hunts for a solid idle and it's really bouncing up and down (from like 500rpm to 1300rpm) * Once it finds the appropriate mixture (?), it stabilizes and doesn't hunt on startup at all unless I reset the ECU again. * I've also noticed that the exhaust smells quite strongly like gas, so I think it's running rich. * In addition, when I'm the throttle is more closed than open (really scientific, huh?), the car feels like it's "loping" (I can't think of any other way to explain it, it's not like it's dying, but it's a bit rough) If anyone has any other suggestions of things to check, please feel free to chime in, it won't hurt my diagnostic ego ;)

I just finished rebuilding my VR6 from the ground up -- I took it to the machine shop for cleanup, had it balanced, bought all new seals, etc. etc. However, since I've gotten it all going, it gives off a little bit of smoke from the rear passenger side of the motor. Is this normal? It doesn't seem to be overheating (though I only drove it around a few blocks to test it out), and I don't have any parts that I forgot about... I am guessing that it will just do that for a little bit as everything settles and fills in gaps, etc. But, I thought maybe someone here would have some suggestions. Thanks!

Thanks for all the extra info, I truly appreciate it. :D My other question still stands though, are they all the same or is each one specific to that section of the crank in terms of shape, weight, size, etc?

Does anyone know if the crank bearings are all the same or if they're all different? I have them all lined up according to where they came from, but they're all a bit worn and I am going to replace them. I just wanted to know if there's anything I need to look out for when replacing them. Thanks! :D

I already tried it ;) 12 maybe? Snapon doesn't carry anything but 10 and 12mm...

I have a 10mm like the ones on the flywheel and it's just shy of fitting, but I'm not sure if that means it's 11 or 12 ;)

Does anyone know what size 12 point driver is needed for removing head bolts on a VR6? It looks like 11mm but I don't care much for purchasing more than one Snap-On tool at a time, otherwise my wallet gets pretty light. :) Thanks!

I checked their website and they don't seem to have much in the way of radiator fans listed. I did choose the US site, though, so perhaps that alters their selection... I was also curious if there are any specific manufacturers people have seen / fitted themselves into a VR. Thanks for the reference to DT :) :?:

Does anyone know of any low-profile radiator fans that can be used in place of the oversized fan in a VR6? Mine's got some chips and starting to make some noise so I'll probably replace it during my overhaul here. If I could, I'd like to get one that's a bit smaller in terms of depth if there is one that's known to fit... Thanks!

Will do, it doesn't rattle at all to the best of my knowledge, but I'll take a look at the tensioner. Chances are it may have been done around 100K by the previous owner, I haven't looked through the paperwork I have yet. I bought a gasket set, the dealer wanted $300 :shock: but my local VW parts house got it for $150, much easier to swallow. UnfortunatelyI have to order the head bolts from the dealer *sigh* ... Thanks again for the info.

It's got 130K miles on it (if that tells you anything), and I'm not certain how to go about testing the state of the chains or the tensioners (am I correct in assuming that it's the timing chain tensioners that you're referring to?). Since I just replaced the clutch, I'd like to avoid removing the transmission -- it was enough of a headache 5 months ago ;) (If you know of a good way to test or signs which indicate they need some attention and it seems like they need replacing then I'd do it in spite of the hassle) I'll look into getting a complete head set as well as the bolts, I didn't know you could get a set. Thanks for the advice!

I'm going to be replacing a very leaky headgasket on my VR6. Does anyone know of any gotchas or other parts I should go about replacing while I'm in there? (You know, like things that will have to be broken to get it apart, things that I might as well service while I'm in there, etc.) Thanks in advance! :D

Thanks, I saw that. I was just curious what people had to say about their kits if they own them ;)

So far I've seen somewhat mixed reactions regarding Samco's hose kit. I've been thinking about buying a set for my VR6 while she's ripped apart. I'm sure some of you here have a set like that, so if anyone wants to share their likes or dislikes about the kit, I'd appreciate it! (If this is a duplicated thread, sorry, I checked and didn't find anything really related :wink: )

For those of you VR6ers who have installed a Mocal cooler and still have your AC unit, where have you been placing it? Or have you guys just been removing your AC? It seems (though I could be wrong) a little cramped to put it in front of the AC (not to mention it might have an adverse effect on the radiator?). Any info is, of course, appreciated -- thanks!

You're wallet, make sure it's got lots of money floating around in it. Mine sure doesn't anymore :shock: *laughs* ;) I don't have any serious advice about the 16v motor in particular as I own a VR6, but I can say congratulations. I love my C, that's for sure, even if it is in pieces in the garage at the moment! :D

It's okay, since it started just after the short I was in the "aww crap what did that short manage to blow up?" mode of thought, and didn't even stop to think about checking my coolant level. :oops: Turns out, that's the problem, my coolant level is waaaay low ;) Seems random that it just started at the same time as me shorting something though, since it's quite cool at the moment. Oh well. Thanks!

The only wires which were damaged were two of the three going to the differential. I cleaned the wires, soldered & insulated them and covered the wiring. The MFA properly reports the oil temp, and the water temp is right where it's always been. I'll check the tank and the sensor, hopefully I'll find something amiss there. Thanks for the heads up, though, I appreciate it.

The other day I had the misfortune of shorting out my speedometer wire as the wire was rubbing against heat shielding and melted through the plastic. It then shorted when i drove through a (very small) puddle (very slowly ;)). I fixed that up, and moved it away from the heat shielding to prevent it from happening again, but now the overheating light in the cluster comes on intermittently, like 3 out of every 5 times I drive the car. The light will flash for a bit, then turn off for a bit then begin to flash again until I kill the engine. Then, during some driving sessions, the light doesn't even come on at all. I know it's not overheating, and I figure that the short might have done a little damage to the ECU, but I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them, and if so, what it's trying to tell me. I may just have to find a mechanic with the proper software to diagnose my ECU if no one knows, but I thought I'd ask here first ;) Thanks!

That's good news, I was hoping that would be the answer I got :D How do you like it with the 20V in there, and how much hassle was the wiring job (and the rest of it too if you'd share your trouble spots, etc)? Thanks for the response guys :mrgreen:

I was sure this would have been asked somewhere, but my searches yield nothing ;) My VR6 is getting up there in age and mileage and so I've been thinking of my options for when its time comes. I'm curious about the feasibility of mounting a newer 20V 1.8t in place of my VR6. (It's a '92) I thought that perhaps if the mounts for the 1.8t are anywhere near those of the VR6 that it might be possible to make it work. Does anyone know of anyone having luck with this type of a swap and if so any photos people might have? Thanks :)