Sexual Castles
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10 GoodAbout Sexual Castles
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- Birthday 05/11/1987
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Sexual Castles started following Flusteds DIY water injection, G60 Induction kits & Polished Golf Bailey Header Tank, G60 Meth/Water Injection and and 3 others
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G60 Induction kits & Polished Golf Bailey Header Tank
Sexual Castles replied to Sexual Castles's topic in Parts for Sale
Don't have the flange. Bought it from a guy on here a while ago who was going to look and send it out to me but never happened. Wouldn't consider splitting but you can always make a sensible offer for the pair and do what you like with them ;) -
G60 Induction kits & Polished Golf Bailey Header Tank
Sexual Castles replied to Sexual Castles's topic in Parts for Sale
Bump - Open to offers on everything -
Finally finished the meth injection system, its set to begin at 9psi and be on full injection at 15psi and is currently on tune setting 1 of 10 which means at 15psi the pump is at 32.5% duty cycle. I am running a 60:40 water to meth mix and this has a noticeable performance increase! It now feels like the engine has an added power-band when the pump kicks in and is just constantly accelerating.. It is pretty ridiculous to drive, but the g60 is in a 900kg mk1 golf and was fairly stupid on the gti gearbox as it was. I am going to gradually increase the tune until I get to the maximum the engine can cope with. Others who have fitted these to G60's have said that at a certain tune level depending on engine mods the car seems to bog down at which point they drop it down to the previous tune level and keep it on that when I up it to the max I will post up what tune is best for others to find if they install the same kit with the same mods. Heres some photos for y'all: ---------- Post added at 7:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:49 PM ---------- Forgot to mention the reason the hose is yellow is because I got some pneumatic grade hose from work that is used for high spec machinery so it is very durable and has no flex so the boost pressure should remain constant all the way to the controller and the meth/water pipe shouldn't spring a leak!
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After further reading and searching I have found a few more answers/opinions from 5-6 years ago on here and other websites.. Will post them up here for anyone else looking for info. The general agreement in Water/Meth Mix is 30:70, 40:60 or 50:50 and is just a case of trial and error/application. PSI point for injection on most websites for supercharger application recommend 50% of peak boost. On a small pulley (68-65mm) standard ported charger the peak boost (at a guess) would be between 15-20PSI so the boost controller should be set to come on at 9-10psi. Reading on here the PSI I found people post up are 9PSI, 10PSI and one at 15PSI so I will be setting mine at 9PSI. There are two real options for a single injector location depending on your route: Before the Co pot and after the c/c or i/c allows the engine to automatically advance timing and adjust air/fuel ratio based on the new air density from the injection, but reading on other pages it could damage engine and could blast meth/water out of blow off valve (debatable and no examples as to how it would damage anything). As far as I can see this wouldn't allow for any sort of meth in the automatic adjustment so a lower mix would probably be best without tuning for the raised octane. The second option is just before the TB, this would bypass the Co pot and as such the engine would not make adjustments itself but the cooling effect would be increased. I am guessing this location would definitely need dyno work to utilise the increased air density so I will be going with the before co pot route. I will fit the kit and post up results and pictures to aid anyone in the future thinking about fitting one but the benefits to be had on a well set-up kit are worth the effort
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Very old thread I know but am looking for help for my G60 water/meth injection kit.. Flusted, where did you place the injector on the intake as I can't really make out from the photos and am finding mixed opinions on before or after AIT (co-pot), distance to TB, damaging MAF etc. Also as you've had it fitted so long did you find a good mix of water:meth and PSI to inject and did you have it tuned for the higher octane? Thanks in advance
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Haven't posted up for ages as have been enjoying driving the car and doing the exterior and suspension but the time as now come to start work to the engine. I have just fitted the RSR outlet kit and have now got a Coolingmist Vari-cool meth/water injection kit to mount in the boot. I have no issues with mounting it, wiring it or installing the injector (will put it after the charge cooler and before the TB). However, I would like to know what psi I should initially set the injection at and what Meth/water mix I should be using. After searching it seems there are G60's out there with meth/water injection systems fitted but the threads are 6 years old and there are no figures! I know I will have to dyno the car and advance the timing/adjust boost to get the best out of the system and utilize the octane raising effect of the meth, but I am also under the impression if I uses a low mix (1:4 Meth:Water) and use it at high boost it will still make an improvement before any dyno work is carried out. Anyone out there able to shed any light on the matter? My engine is as follows: Standard G-werks recon G-ladder, Charge Cooler, 65mm Pulley, Full custom Powerflow exhaust system (soon to be de-cat and new back box as its spit out all the packing), Custom fuel pressure regulator, Braided Supercharger oil feed, Blocked off boost re-circulation system, Jabbasport induction kit & heat shield and RSR Outlet Kit and it is running an 020 16v close ratio box. Any help would be appreciated!
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Firstly I need to find out what part this is: When removing the clocks I managed to break the outlet off of this bit that had the tube running to the back of the clocks. The car is currently as follows: New standard rebuilt G-works Charger last year along with cam belt and clutch replacement Smaller charger pulley Custom cone air filter Custom charge cooler with front mounted rad and motorcycle fan to aid cooling Boost recirculation system removed and now vented Adjustable fuel pressure regulator Full custom Powerspeed exhaust system with de-cat I saw a comment about PTFE that needs to be done every so often for the boost return mod and just wondered if anyone knows of any definitive thread that lets me know all the regular maintenance I should be looking to do as the car will be back on the road in about a month after i've sorted some wiring out. I am planning to get an oil cooler in the near future and get a service (maybe at G-werkes unless anyone can recommend somewhere nearer South East London/Kent that is good?) also wrap the headers to keep the bay a little cooler and then in the distant future stage 4 charger rebuild and ported and polished head.
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Thanks dannyboy, Ive had a look and its an 02a box not 020, but ive decided to go another route and have managed to source a complete digifiz set of clocks/loom etc. as the dash I had was a series 1 so it had the old screw on type speedo cable and after trying to find old speedo cables I thought it best to just keep it all electric as even the later types are becoming rare. Gonna have a search on here and see if anyone has whacked one in a rado
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Thanks for repying so quickly. Will go and have a look in a minute, its from a corrado but its now in a mk1 golf. The guy who built it put the full corrado interior in it and im putting it back to the mk1 golf dash/clocks which is why I need the mechanical speedo. Any idea on if I can convert it from electric sensor?
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Got a G60 and was trying to find out what gearbox is in it to find out if I can fit a drive cog and speedo cable instead of the electric sensor? Also am I right in thinking that some ecu's need the electric speed sensor? There is a stamp on the bottom of the casing 'AMC04082' but all I can find info on is 020 etc. Any help would be appreciated.