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ahh, thats okay then, have neither haha... do you guys think theres any chance it could be the switch?? just seems like something like that to me i.e it used to turn on and off sometimes but now not at all, although the old switch did that too. the sidelights do come on just nothing when you click it that last step for dipped. have a friend who works at honda and says he got a cool gizmo thats proper good for wire/power testing (not a multimeter though?) so that will probably be the next step, but as i said when you demand high beam then EVRYTHING lights up which made me think it was the switch (i hope these chinese copy ones arnt that bad...!) thanks so far guys

nice engine choice ;) would say all i have found which appear to be common throughout the KR engines are split vaccuum hoses (underneath all the induction piping) replaced all mine and made for a better idle if any have small splits etc. as said the rasp sounds like a knackered exhaust; mine had this, sounded awful when accelerating - was around the manifold area unfortuantly and it was subframe down job as i replaced the lot. other than that as long as its serviced regularly and the injectors have good rubbrs then i havent found much go wrong! just rebuilt mine with nearly everything brand new - 2 months and it started first turn and idled perfectly - well chuffed! enjoy!

will check the fuses again pal but appeared okay last time, will replace them anyway, did seem to be a gradual problem?? worked, then sometimesworked, then stopped fully, sounds like corrosion but as said i had the loom all uncovered and rewrapped it after minor repairs... standard loom too cheers p.s does anyone know what the fuse holder on top of the fuse box is for?? same as the row of blade ones at the bottom but by itself above the relays... mines empty but assumed it couldnt be to do with that as there was no loose fuse in the footwell etc

no ideas guys?? :shrug:

hey guys, really could do with some advice as the rado is getting dangerously close to the match in my hand haha, ive got a headlight problem in that, they dont work... ive done; replaced the headlight switch from one of the chaps on here checked the whole loom (made few kinor repairs) headlights are okay/bulbs too made a new earth of the chassis (ground back to metal then painted over top once all bolted up) helpful points; when you pull the high beam stalk (as if wanting to switch to high beam) the high beam bulbs AND dipped beam light up?? (proving bulbs are okay) i did break the clicker so IF they were working i wouldnt be able to switch to high beam now (however the problem was there before i broke it) i have checked the loom behind the switch and there is a yellow wire cut but headlights were working with it like this before (previous owner) i have had a look aropund the fuse box and it appears no wires are out/fuses are all okay (top fuse holder right at the top of the fuse box is empty however??) could the problem be a relay or something like that?? getting hacked off now as ive got a million other things to sort out! bit of a dog when i bought it... but hey, someones gotta do it! any help would be greatly, GREATLY appreciated! thanks guys oop - corrado is a 1.8 16v KR engine '90 plate

hi marty, im afraid due to time restrictions i haven't had a chance to remove the original stuff yet, i will be driving around on it for another week or two but if your still intrested then its yours (i'll pm you if you like) reserved it is :thumbleft: sorry about the delay matt

KR cams sold, everything else still available

ended up biting the bullet and ordered a complete set of studs and nuts for the cam bearing caps and another exhaust stud set too.... sad to say for a package that wont be bigger than a bag of sugar it hit the triple figure mark :roll: didnt want to risk putting in my other used ones as might have had the same problem and thennot been able to getthe spare head back together again (for sale in case anyones intrested :norty:) just got the 7-10day waiting period as there coming from germany! atleast ive got a whole load of other pieces to be getting on with...

yeah getting a few quotes today for a new set as it would obviously be better but as said i have a spare head which i could knick them out of worst come to worst... ta for the help guys!

hey guys, ta for the advice but ive got an update... not only are the cam cap studs knackered as well as some of the nuts, but i went to torque up my manifold nuts today too - sheared off one of the studs (new studs, new nuts, new manifold + gasket AND reconned head!) cant @#~?ing believe it! sound the like the torque wrench is no good? believe the manifold studs to be 18lb/ft, the wrench is a friends and is literally brand new although it is a mother of a torque wrench but if it says you can set it as low as 10lb/ft then surley you can? i dont understand whats happening?!?! :bonk: genuinly peeved off (and it takes a lot!) but jesus christ! ive got a spare head built up i nthe garage (the one i removed) think its worth checking out those cam cap studs and nuts and swapping them over?? 'aide' - yeah i used the double nut thing to put the studs in and to remove one that stretched (exhaust ones) but havent attempted removing the cam cap ones yet, no one know of anywhere to get new ones? had a friend at Honda get a quote for me and apparantly it was around £3 EACH, and they are in germany and would be 10 days!! AND the nuts were 44p EACH too! heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp! :mad:

none of this any good to someone? open to offers on all of them

hey all, bringer of bad news ive been reassembling my head on the car and once the cam caps were back on (in sequence) i attempted at torquing them up (11lb/ft). it would appear that quite a few of them are no sticking this setting and giving way and stripping the threads out of the nuts and some of the studs - cant believe it! possible causes are over-tightening before hand or age?? absolutly gutted as i was really hoping to get the head finished today and rocker cover on etc... but it looks like im going to have to replace the studs.... doing a quick search brought up a very old post which gave the p/no - 030 103 397A (M7x45) is this still correct - has anyone else had to replace theirs before? it also suggested a full set was around the £55+/- mark; just for the studs too :sad: any help would be muchly appreciated!!! also are these likely to come out easy enough? the old studs that is... matt

hey guys, im currently in the process of rebuilding my 16v corrado so obviously, the more i bolt on, the more i have to take off! only really a few bits at the momment as im only part way through but i will keep updating the list and editing it accordingly, im useless with pictures so if your intrested in anything then ask and i'll be happy to email you any, prices are for the bits only as most of them would be better off cash on collection but your welcome to organise your own courier - i can promise you now i dont have the time at the momment! and so... complete subframe set-up (subframe with wishbones and anti roll bar all built up) i have cleaned this a little and the subframe looks very good, bushes have slight cracking but felt fairly tight on the car, wishbones/roll bar have surface rust etc, ideal for a refurb like ive just done... £45 pair of KR camshafts including sprockets and cam pulley (ready to drop in) sorry, no timing chain SOLD KR head (standard) literally taken off the car and put in storage at the momment - therefore includes valves/lifters/cams and pulley have now been removed as they sold elsewhere/rocker cover/water flanges will be left on although fairly grubby/and also the lower half of the 42mm inlet mani as it looks as though 1 bolt is rounded, was removed only because i had a spare head ported/polished etc, ideal for work but ready to drop on... £80 'soon to have' complete 16v suspension set-up (standard) will have to double check none are leaking etc but if not £25 - RESERVED FOR MARTY35 feel free to holla guys, im based in leighton buzzard but do travel a lot for work so let me know where you are if you cant arrange collection/a courier and i'll see if i can help in any way, would love to say im open for swappsies but i need to recooperate some currency!! matt :thumbleft:

any advice guys for getting the 4 allen bolts out? onlyhad time for a quick go but they look like the've been in for a while!!

couldnt help more if you tried! so from the picture, by removing x4 allen bolts (10 on the diagram), pulleys (9) + (7) should come away then leaving (4) in place as long as i dont touch (11) ?? and then its a case of just watching out for any rubber bits in between...? thanks for your time pal also, whats the best way to stop everything turning (its now just the block sitting there with box and shafts going into bare hubs) so i assume putting it in gear wont really work as its all off the floor? thanks! :thumbleft: