Mike16v

Hi Craig, sorry for the delay. I don't think I could be much further away from you - I'm in Kent!

Just want to add that the private is included in the sale.

No, it wasn't unfortunately. Autoglass rang to cancel in the morning saying the screen hadn't arrived. Rebooked for 7th April! That's the next available appointment apparently.

Still available!

Oh and I did the thermostat and housing last year as well...sorry, I keep remembering things.

As I've already mentioned somewhere above, I've got a screen replacement booked for 18th March (because of the crack). Anyway - here are some engine bay photos for you. [ATTACH=CONFIG]83424[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83425[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83426[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83427[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83428[/ATTACH]

Sorry about the delay Marcus, had a couple of drinks last night... The spoiler works on the switch and when driving. The sunroof was one of the first jobs I did when I bought the car as it wasn't working at all. I replaced the whole mechanism and it was tilting and sliding nicely. The sunroof seal was in a horrible condition though and I couldn't find a nice replacement at a sensible price. I used a new seal from a Golf (mark 2 I think) which fit but was a little too deep to allow the sunroof to slide. No issues with the clutch gearbox. The gear selector had a ridiculously long throw when I got the car so I fitted one of the short shift kits available on here and the change is really nice now. The ABS light comes on at start up and then goes out as it should. I did have to replace an ABS sensor (front passengers side I think). Regarding the rough running - the car starts and runs fine. When its up to temperature, the idle drops a little and you get the feeling that it wants to stall (it doesn't) when you stop in traffic etc. I really think this is due to the lambda sensor so I bought a genuine replacement. I planned to change it but found that I couldn't get the car on to my ramps because of the low clearance of the front splitter and the job really needs a bit of room underneath. I used the car for driving to and from work in the Summer, but can't say that I've done any really long trips in it for three or four years. 30 minutes away is probably the furthest I've been. There are no fluid leaks at all. I did have a small oil leak from the oil temperature sensor but I replaced that last year. The coolant was looking a bit gunky so I flushed the system out in the summer. I put a new expansion bottle on while I was there. Engine temp stays between 80 - 100 when driving. Fan seems to kick in when required. Had a new coolant temp sensors last year (for the dash guage, ECU and rad fan). Regarding the bodywork, I had the bonnet resprayed 2 years ago so no stone chips there. There is one car park ding on the passengers side. You may be able to see that in the photos. Rust wise, three arched are starting to bubble on the trailing edge, again the photos should show this. There is no finance on the car. Just let me know if you've got any more questions or want photos of specific parts - that's no problem. I'll just pop outside to get some photos of the engine bay for you...[ATTACH=CONFIG]83417[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83418[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83419[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83420[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83421[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83422[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83423[/ATTACH]

Hi Marcus, Thanks for the questions. It will take me a while to reply to them all so I'll get back to you in the morning when I can see straight 😬

Just and update on the description above...I've arranged to have a new windscreen fitted in 18th March.

Bump - I'm open to offers!

After 5 years of ownership, I'm reluctantly selling my 1993 2.0 16v. The MOT expires in June 2016 and it is currently SORN as I don't drive it in winter. It's covered 93,000 miles. I've done lots of work to it in that time here is some of it: New injectors, cam belt less than 5k miles ago, HT leads, distributer cap / rotor, battery, disks & pads all round, front wishbones / drop links, suspension top mounts all round. Short shift gear linkage kit fitted. Drivers seat bolster replaced. Fitted with Sebring alloys which had been refurbished and are like new. 5th alloy also refurbed - never been used. 4 brand new Goodyear tyres covered less than 200 miles. Engine is running a little rough when warm. I think this is due to a duff lambda sensor (genuine VW replacement is included). There is a vertical crack in the screen where the rear view mirror is. Last serviced in the summer. I have a spare front bumper which I am happy to chuck in if wanted. Car is located near Dover, Kent. Looking for £2250 ono Any questions - ask away! [ATTACH=CONFIG]83345[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83346[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83347[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83348[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83349[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83350[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83351[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83352[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83353[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83354[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83355[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83356[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83357[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83358[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83359[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]83360[/ATTACH]

Thanks Knuckleduster, I checked the cat a few days ago because I didn't fit it myself. It is the one sensor type. The MOT tester managed to make it pass although I think he's done some sort of slight of hand rather than sorting the job properly. I've bought a new 02 sensor although I haven't had time to fit it yet. When I've put it on, I'll check the emissions again. The car is actually running fine, although it doing an average 16MPG which is a bit scary and the exhaust still smells of fuel. Fingers crossed the sensor will sort it - if not I'll do as you suggest and go for another (type approved) cat.

Be a little cautious of going down the DPF removal route. A removed / non functioning DPF became an MOT failure since April last year. VOSA are even using cameras to check for DPF removal at their road checks.

Decided to have a look at the lambda sensor wiring yesterday and change the engine mount while I was at it. The wiring looks in good condition. While I had the air intake off from the air box to the throttle, I noticed that the vac hoses which connect to the little valve in the air intake hose were the wrong way round. Can anyone shed any light on what the little valve does or if this will make any difference?

So ran it up to the garage with the 5th injector unplugged. Emissions are better - its perfect on idle but still goes up to 4% CO on fast idle (as opposed to 6% before). They seem to think the lambda sensor has gone wonky so going to try a new one. The car starts fine in this weather without the 5th injector and the car only comes out in the summer, but I'd like to find out why its operating all the time. I'm assuming it's controlled by the ECU which is getting temperature information from the coolant temperature sensor?

Had a thought about this last night... I unplugged the 5th injector and measured the voltage to it on startup and got 12v. I waited until the engine warmed up and expected to see the voltage drop or disappear. It didn't drop at all apart for a couple of split second blips down to 5v. But with the coolant temperature at 90C there was still 12v at the injector. Am I right expecting the voltage to drop once the car is warmed up?

Thanks Portent, I may give them a call. Most garages near me haven't got a clue about it. I may change the cat as it's not too expensive. The type approved ones seem to be going for around £80-£100. Re the engine codes - it's a '93 car and I was under the impression that I would only get ABS codes from it. You think I might get something more useful?

That's a good point it wasn't expensive if I remember. It's probably only done 500 miles since it was fitted though. Trouble is, I can't find a decent garage near me who understands the fuel injection. They see the metering head and just glaze over.

So my 16v failed its MOT on emissions. The CO reading was 5% at idle and 6% at fast idle. As I understand it, the reading needs to be below 0.3% - so it's not as if it's even close. Since it passed with no problems last year, it looks like something I've done... Ive replaced the dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads and plugs on the ignition side of things. I fitted new injectors a couple of weeks ago (thinking the old original ones were coming up to 100k miles so were probably not at their best. The cat and O2 sensor were replaced 2 years ago. The garage who did the MOT were mostly clueless, but did say they adjusted the screw on the metering head and managed to get the idle CO down to 0.2%. As soon as the throttle is touched it shoots right up to 6%+ Anyone had a similar problem? I'm wondering if the new new injectors are duff or does it just need setting up correctly?

I'd be interested to read the results of the testing carried out if you have a link Emu? As I said earlier, happy to carry out a TerraClean service free of charge to a VR owner, as long as they are prepared to get before and after emissions test done for comparison at a garage of their choice. Can't do much more than that.

Emu, are you saying they have tested Terraclean specifically or other systems?

I think the videos explain what the process consists if quite clearly, but some people like to know how and why things happen. As I said, results can be readily verified with a before and after emissions test. Not opinion, not placebo effect, just cold, hard fact

It might help to add an explanation of how the process was developed taken from the Terraclean website: TerraClean is a technology developed by a group of scientists in Canada. They were commissioned by the Canadian government to develop a zero emissions engine. They did manage to achieve this goal, but the technology involved and the fuel used to achieve this would necessitate an increase to the price of the vehicles, due to the need to retro fit a "reactor" which molecularly alters the state of the fuel. That increase in cost coupled with the cosof the highly refined fuel, developed for the project, which would retail at over £ 40 per litre rendered the concept non-viable to introduce into the cars motorist drive. All such engineering projects demand close attention to the condition of the test vehicles being used. The engineering inspections carried out in this project clearly demonstrated that the process was not only not developing carbon build up, usually associated with all internal combustion engines, in fact it was removing pre-existing carbon previously built up in the engines as well as other deposits which usually build up particularly from use of lower grade/quality fuels. So whilst the Zero Emissions vehicle project was set aside the technology was taken in a different direction and the concept of TerraClean Decarbonisation equipment was developed. This has proven very successful with over 13,000 machines in operation in the North American market, mainly in franchised dealer workshops. Whilst quite new to the UK marketplace already the technology is proving its value to private owners and fleet operators alike, who are both saving money by reduced fuel costs and lowering their emissions. Essentially by taking a vehicle back to its level of cleanliness not long after being new the efficiency and performance are improved.

Kevin, you say that the consumer cannot prove either way what the chemical is doing. That is my point, the consumer can do just that if they wish by having a before an after exhaust gas analysis done. The lowered emissions are proof of more efficient combustion. Here is a clip from Wheeler Dealers that illustrates that point: Another one by Frank Massey, although this one's a bit harder to sit through...

and Mini Cooper... [ATTACH=CONFIG]78767[/ATTACH]